Z1NONLY 10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
So I found out how much power it takes to blow the stock door speakers on a 350Z. (Non-Bose system)
I was using a 1kHz 0db test tone to set my 300/2. My target was 80w/side (40/speaker). just as I got to my target the passenger door speaker went.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif Ironically, the magnet on the deceased unit says "40 watts max" in plain English right there on the magnet. They weren't bluffing.
I really want to listen to some different comps before I get a set, so I just dug out a set of Kicker KS5250's that have been gathering dust for a few years and proceeded to "make it fit."
The Z's window is right behind the speaker mounting point resulting in a PITA mounting depth. Spacers are needed for just about any driver.
I used a 9v battery to figure out which lead was + on the old speaker. Sneaky-Smurf Nissan uses blue for positive. The negative is....red! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
First, I used an exact-o knife to cut the cone out of the basket. Using a rotary cutting tool, I cut the plastic basket away from the trim ring. Then I fabricated a gasket from some window gasket tape. Drilling through the plastic ring to mount the 5.25 was easy. (The plastic was soft enough that it didn't crack, even with some of the wholes close to the edge) Once mounted in the factory trim ring, I just soldered a little jumper from the new speaker to the stock tinsel lead connection points...
Burned VC on stock unit. (Smelled very burnt)
All in all, cannibalizing the stock speakers yielded some good spacers with a perfect seal to the door.
I was using a 1kHz 0db test tone to set my 300/2. My target was 80w/side (40/speaker). just as I got to my target the passenger door speaker went.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif Ironically, the magnet on the deceased unit says "40 watts max" in plain English right there on the magnet. They weren't bluffing.
I really want to listen to some different comps before I get a set, so I just dug out a set of Kicker KS5250's that have been gathering dust for a few years and proceeded to "make it fit."
The Z's window is right behind the speaker mounting point resulting in a PITA mounting depth. Spacers are needed for just about any driver.
I used a 9v battery to figure out which lead was + on the old speaker. Sneaky-Smurf Nissan uses blue for positive. The negative is....red! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
First, I used an exact-o knife to cut the cone out of the basket. Using a rotary cutting tool, I cut the plastic basket away from the trim ring. Then I fabricated a gasket from some window gasket tape. Drilling through the plastic ring to mount the 5.25 was easy. (The plastic was soft enough that it didn't crack, even with some of the wholes close to the edge) Once mounted in the factory trim ring, I just soldered a little jumper from the new speaker to the stock tinsel lead connection points...
Burned VC on stock unit. (Smelled very burnt)
All in all, cannibalizing the stock speakers yielded some good spacers with a perfect seal to the door.
