2016 sierra 2500hd speaker setup

[Mr4ces]

Bought the 6x9 component speakers should I mount tweeters on dash or mount them on the door and buy coaxial speakers for dash also ? Right now I’m just running stock headunit but will be adding a amp and a DSP later

 

[winkychevelle]

Bought the 6x9 component speakers should I mount tweeters on dash or mount them on the door and buy coaxial speakers for dash also ? Right now I’m just running stock headunit but will be adding a amp and a DSP later

Mount them in the dash corners or on the appillar or sail panel.

Don't put coaxials in the dash. And you need a way to control the volume of the tweeters separately from the 6x9 mids in some cases as they may be overbearingly loud. Or not really it depends on the vehicle. Flipping the polarity on the passenger side can tame the tweeters if it is overly loud until you get the amp and dsp up and running. Eqing down the upper frequencies can help as well.

 

[audiobaun]

I prefer the dash for tweets. If they came with Angle pods, they can be Velcroed on the dash without using screws to penetrate the dash. I like to use Extreme Velcro with the Grabbing portion on the tweeter and the felt side on the dash.

 

[Mr4ces]

Mount them in the dash corners or on the appillar or sail panel.

Don't put coaxials in the dash. And you need a way to control the volume of the tweeters separately from the 6x9 mids in some cases as they may be overbearingly loud. Or not really it depends on the vehicle. Flipping the polarity on the passenger side can tame the tweeters if it is overly loud until you get the amp and dsp up and running. Eqing down the upper frequencies can help as well.

Mount them in the dash corners or on the appillar or sail panel.

Don't put coaxials in the dash. And you need a way to control the volume of the tweeters separately from the 6x9 mids in some cases as they may be overbearingly loud. Or not really it depends on the vehicle. Flipping the polarity on the passenger side can tame the tweeters if it is overly loud until you get the amp and dsp up and running. Eqing down the upper frequencies can help as well.

so did I do the right thing on buying the components or should I gone with coaxials on doors and coaxial on dash?

 

[winkychevelle]

so did I do the right thing on buying the components or should I gone with coaxials on doors and coaxial on dash?

I hate coaxials because usually they have no way to control the tweeter the make it blends well and typically they struggle with the midbass region.

On top of that it's hard if not impossible to get the sound stage up high and wide with coaxials in the door. Tweeters on the dash will naturally pull the sound stage up to at least dash level and pointing then at the windshield usually pushes the sound stage higher.

It is my opinion that the kiss method is the way to go with most installs.

1 pair of tweeters
1 set of midbass
Subs
4channel amp and mono
And dsp.

Rear fill if desired I usually turn down as it tends to pull the sound stage rearward which is not preferable. A front sub is the easy way to get the 50-100hz kick drums to be solid and authoritative but is notalways easily implemented.

Infinite baffle kicks are another good way to get solid midbass but most do not want to go that route as it involves cutting the floor.

The doors are probably the hardest to do because they are poorly sealed, not structurally sound and tend to rattle. But most of the time you can fix most of those issues with proper deadening and door treatments.

I'd rather dump money into deadening and door treatments then rear fill or more expensive speakers

 

[Mr4ces]

I hate coaxials because usually they have no way to control the tweeter the make it blends well and typically they struggle with the midbass region.

On top of that it's hard if not impossible to get the sound stage up high and wide with coaxials in the door. Tweeters on the dash will naturally pull the sound stage up to at least dash level and pointing then at the windshield usually pushes the sound stage higher.

It is my opinion that the kiss method is the way to go with most installs.

1 pair of tweeters
1 set of midbass
Subs
4channel amp and mono
And dsp.

Rear fill if desired I usually turn down as it tends to pull the sound stage rearward which is not preferable. A front sub is the easy way to get the 50-100hz kick drums to be solid and authoritative but is notalways easily implemented.

Infinite baffle kicks are another good way to get solid midbass but most do not want to go that route as it involves cutting the floor.

The doors are probably the hardest to do because they are poorly sealed, not structurally sound and tend to rattle. But most of the time you can fix most of those issues with proper deadening and door treatments.

I'd rather dump money into deadening and door treatments then rear fill or more expensive speakers

ok thanks guys for y’all’s input that really help a lot