2016 Chrysler 300 Build

gd004800

CarAudio.com Newbie
This form has given me a lot of answers over the past years, so I think I have learned enough to do my own build. I’m sure I know all the ends and outs of car audio now…I’m sure everything will go perfect.

Overall project 2016 Chrysler 300
-stinger heigh10 head unit
- new speakers + amp
- 10” kicker comp c + pioneer amp
- Vibration dampen doors trunk
- attempt to add mlv under carpet as these cars tend to have road noise

So I was joking above, I started this build last week and all my planning went to hell.
I installed the stinger Heigh10 head unit. Works great and I had purchased a kenwood xr600-6dsp a few years back for a previous 300 that was totaled. Yet no matter what I do I cannot get it to work since I removed the factory head unit.


The heigh10 has outputs for a front and rear zone. So I should be able to run that directly to an amp and be good to go. My debate here is there’s also an toslink output. Yet a lot of DSP don’t have a toslink port. What would your recommendation be, skip the DSP and go straight to an amp, rca to dsp, toslink to rca converter to DSP, or find a DSP with a Toslink?
 
Build Photo
  1. Not right now
This form has given me a lot of answers over the past years, so I think I have learned enough to do my own build. I’m sure I know all the ends and outs of car audio now…I’m sure everything will go perfect.

Overall project 2016 Chrysler 300
-stinger heigh10 head unit
- new speakers + amp
- 10” kicker comp c + pioneer amp
- Vibration dampen doors trunk
- attempt to add mlv under carpet as these cars tend to have road noise

So I was joking above, I started this build last week and all my planning went to hell.
I installed the stinger Heigh10 head unit. Works great and I had purchased a kenwood xr600-6dsp a few years back for a previous 300 that was totaled. Yet no matter what I do I cannot get it to work since I removed the factory head unit.


The heigh10 has outputs for a front and rear zone. So I should be able to run that directly to an amp and be good to go. My debate here is there’s also an toslink output. Yet a lot of DSP don’t have a toslink port. What would your recommendation be, skip the DSP and go straight to an amp, rca to dsp, toslink to rca converter to DSP, or find a DSP with a Toslink?
I believe you'll be happy with going straight to an amp. Either way, you can use the RCA's.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

About this thread

gd004800

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
gd004800
Joined
Location
indiana
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
4
Views
1,025
Last reply date
Last reply from
1aespinoza
IMG_20260506_140749.jpg

74eldiablo

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
design.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top