2006 Doublecab Tacamo setup - Need your opinons

Rodge
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Here's my deadening plan:

150sq ft of eDead V1se

3 Gallons of eDead V3

Plan on painting the roof with the eDead V3 only. Then laying down the V1se on the inside and outside door panels, floor, and back of cab. Then painting a layer of V3 on top of that.

Here's the speakers/amps/subs I was looking at:

Subs: 2 Image Dynamics ID10 v3 D2

Comps: Image Dynamics CXS6

Sub Amp: Orion 1200D wired @ 2 Ohms for 725W

Comp Amp: Orion 4002

I already own a Pioneer DEH-860MP.

The subs/comps/amps are going to run me roughly 1200$ shipped. Can I get a better deal for that price? Keep in mind I have VERY limited room for my 10s as the box I plan on building will only be able to fit a sub with a mounting depth of 5.5" or less.

 
Sounds like a great setup, although I personally haven't had that great of luck with eDead. I much prefer Raammat and Second Skin sound deadening.

 
Rodge, I would rec. http://www.raamaudio.com or http://www.Secondskinaudio.com

Read here for testing results

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Here's some pics of my deadened doors of my '05 Tacoma









For your subs, I can get you an enclosure custom made for the D-Cab Tacoma with amprack for 250 plus shipping from Marv. (Mr Marv on ECA)

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t110784.html

He also has the template for those baffles I have in my first posted pics.

For speakers, since you have the 860MP and the capability of wiring active, I would go DIY. What are you getting the ID Chameleons for?$

They are good speakers, but for the price those sell for, I can put together a way better DIY setup.

Now the Orion amps. For your subs, IMO I'd go for a class AB amp for them. You're not using SPL subs in a ported enclosure, might as well use a class AB amp. People will argue this fact, but I believe Class AB amps have better sound quality.

 
I can get them for 350$ shipping is free. Now with this whole active setup, how do I go about it? I know that I use the 2 extra sets of RCAs to amp the tweets and midbass seperately. I'm assuming I'd buy a 6.5" midbass, a 1" tweeter, and a crossover. I'm not a noob to car stereo, but I'm far far far from an expert. Explain please...

 
I forgot to say I'd like to get sound deadening material that is going to last the longest as I don't plan on getting rid of this truck until I run it into the ground.

 
I can get them for 350$ shipping is free. Now with this whole active setup, how do I go about it? I know that I use the 2 extra sets of RCAs to amp the tweets and midbass seperately. I'm assuming I'd buy a 6.5" midbass, a 1" tweeter, and a crossover. I'm not a noob to car stereo, but I'm far far far from an expert. Explain please...
You wouldn't need to buy a crossover b/c the 860 already has an internal active crossover.

 
I can get them for 350$ shipping is free. Now with this whole active setup, how do I go about it? I know that I use the 2 extra sets of RCAs to amp the tweets and midbass seperately. I'm assuming I'd buy a 6.5" midbass, a 1" tweeter, and a crossover. I'm not a noob to car stereo, but I'm far far far from an expert. Explain please...

Well for 350 I can guarentee you a better set of speakers, but you will have to go active.

You can get the Seas CA18RNX 7" Mids for about110-115 shipped for the two, and then LPG tweeters for about 90-100 shipped.

So for a little over 200 bucks, you'll have a setup that will kill the Chameleon.

If you want to spend more, I'd look into the Seas Excel W18 Nextel drivers. The LPG's will work well with those too. Should be about 400 shipped and will be VERY hard to beat for any money.

Running active basically means that you are going to seperate the frequencies before amplifying the signal. Instead of doing it afterwards with a passive filter. IN your case, you would use the 860MP's built in 3 way electronic crossover.

The front RCA's will e for the HPF for the tweeters, about 1.5khz to 4khz depending on your speakers.

The rear RCA's will be for the mids. The rears will have a bandpass. There will be a HPF setting of 60-80hz and a LPF setting of 1.5=3khz depending on your speaker.

Then the 3rd RCA will go to the sub amp. This is self explanitory.

To power a 2 way setup(mids and tweeters) you will need 4 channels of amplification. You can use a 4 channel amp, you can use two 2 channel amps or you can use a 5 channel amp and power your subs with the sub channel.

Depends on what you want to do as far as mounting amps. In that enclosure that I showed you above, you can mount one amp on the front, and one guy has even mounted one on the other side.

Under the drivers seat there is room for an amp. Not a whole lot, but there is room. I fit my Xetec 4G600MK2 under there very easily. The specs are 11" by 11" by 3". You can use a longer amp by about 3 more inches.

I would try to send at least 150 watts rms to the mids if you're going to go active and DIY

And at least 70 watts rms or so for the tweeters.

 
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Rodge

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