2005 Nissan Xterra Install

[leon 10+ year member]

So I decided to upgrade my system in my truck after two years of running a lone sub. I unfortunately punctured the dust cap of my JL 12W6v2 and this little cosmetic flaw was driving me nuts so I have an excuse to slurge on unnecessary things! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

My new system:

HU: Kenwood DDX812 with iPod control

Components: Image Dynamics CTX65CS

Component Amp: Sundown 100.2 (Thanks to Trkle! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif)

Sub: 12" Diamond Audio D6 dual-4 ohms

Sub Amp: Alpine M1005

Box: 1.25 cu ft ported at 33 Hz. Designed by Chris and built by BJ at fishercustoms.com

1/0 ga power wire to a distro then 1/0 to the Alpine and 4/0 to the Sundown.

Big Three with 1/0 ga wire.

100 sq feet of RAAMat

I apologize for the image quality, they were taken with my iPhone since I don't have a proper digital camera.

My truck!

Butt secks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Deconstruction!

Click to read more...

 

[leon 10+ year member]

New wiring for my Alpine.

Wiring for the Sundown 100.2

Some install kits from Crutchfield. My front speakers are 6x9s and I'm going to put in 6.5s so I needed an adaptor. Plus a new dash kit for the Kenwood.

10 feet 1/0 KLM wire with 300A fuse.

Old power wire vs the new!

I ran the wire from the back to the front, using the older wire to help pull the new, thicker one through the car. Helped a bit.

Will get silicone to seal that cut up a bit.

A giant fuse holder, this thing is HUGE! 200A fuse for this one.

I will get better/longer zip ties later. But the power wire to the back is done!

 

[leon 10+ year member]

First part of the big three! I tried to get the bolt off the silver chassis, but couldn't. Felt like it was welded on from the bottom, and the black metal is actually part of the chassis too (front chassis).

Battery Negative test fitting. Would this work fine??

This is what it looks like so far. I probably will have extra wire so I can cut a longer wire and go around and under the positive terminal for a cleaner/safer look.

Now I need your help on several things.

I removed the plastic covering the positive battery terminal and found this:

I took care not to touch it but wtf is that?

Also, I was looking for a nice bolt on the engine block and found this:

The front view

From behind.

Would this bolt work? The metal plate seems connected to the engine block, but I could be wrong. It's hard to see because the whole engine compartment is a mess.

I also don't know which bolt on the alternator to attach the wire to. I don't see any wires going to the alternator as well (I'm sure there are wires to the alt, but I can't find/identify those wires). It's really hard to reach too, but I did find a diagram a while back showing how to easily access it through the passenger wheel well but I lost it and couldn't find it since. So any help with this would help A LOT.

 

[leon 10+ year member]

Today I'm going to run a new set of RCAs for the Sundown. I'm keeping the ugly green one for the Alpine.

I'm also going to mount the amps in my hideaway compartment and cut some holes for the wires to run though.

 

[path2spl 10+ year member]

to get rid of that corrosion mix some baking soda and water and clean it with that. i would recommend getting a better battery for up front though

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

dude move that fuse holder and screw it to the firewall, don't leave it on the air intake like that.

 

[jbizzle 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't put a 300a fuse on the KLM wire, its only rated for 250a

 

[leon 10+ year member]

Didn't do much today except more wiring, cleaning up, and prep work.

I installed the 2nd run of rca's and fixed the green one. there was too much of it all bunched up in the dash (thanks to best buy!) so I pulled it out and extended it, which was what I really needed so i could reach the sub amp.

Also cleaned the gunk off the battery and repositioned the fuse to the top of a fuse box. I also dremel'd off the tips of the screws and added electrical tape to the ends to protect the wires/fuses.

I will check into an optima yellowtop. I need a D35 according to optima's website, but this is not on top of my priorities right now.

Also did the power and ground wiring to my amps and spliced a second remote wire so I can power both amps on. It got dark fast so I couldn't grab a picture of the finished wiring in the back, but the last pic gives you an idea of what it looks like.

I tested it and it works! I didn't blow up my apartment or melt down my truck, so that's good. And on top of that, I gained 0.3 - 0.5 volts so my sub amp is now getting 14.1v compared to 13.6 - 13.8. I haven't finished the Big Three yet since I can't figure out how to reach the alternator. I would really like your help with this! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I am hoping to gain another 0.3 from the Big Three so I can constantly push 14.4v to my subs for max powaaahh //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

RAAMat should arrive Monday so once I finish the speaking wiring I'll get started on the door panels. Would it be worth it to RAAMat under the amps (trunk floor)?? It's only like maybe 25" x 18" (have to measure) so it's a small area.

Anyway on to the pictures!

 

[four15s 10+ year member]

that looks pretty good

my friends mom has one of those xcept its lightning blue...haha

 

[leon 10+ year member]

that looks pretty goodmy friends mom has one of those xcept its lightning blue...haha

thanks!

i wanted the blue one, but they didn't have it at the lot i bought my truck from, just silver and gunmetal.

 

[leon 10+ year member]

Guess what arrived in the mail!

125 sq feet ZOMG!

But didn't get started on it since it was really tacky and i had to cool it off. I finished off the wiring and reattached my seats ftw.

Now you see it.

Now you dont

But sad news. My car wont start now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I disconnected the battery negative while I was working on the back (due to the seats I had to relocate one ground to another bolt and the distroblock a couple inches closer to the side) then when I plug in the battery everything looked fine. my interior lights came on as usual, but when i went to start it, it didn't quite crank at all and lights were just flickering on the display and the spindles on the speedometer, tach, gas, oil, etc were all "shaking" but my lights still work? is my battery dead or did i blow a fuse? the fuse to the back isnt blown at all so i am really lost. nothing is really any different except the new ground for the sub amp (which I cleaned and sanded to bare metal) and moved the distroblock.

UPDATE: I was able to jump my car and it works now but two things- I lost the total miles on the odometer, any way to get it back? Also, my exhuast now smells funny and is leaking something. Is it possible I fried something in the exhaust by the reconnecting and disconnecting my battery?

 

[mobeious 10+ year member]

sounds like ur batt is dead

 

[path2spl 10+ year member]

check your voltage on your battery.

 

[leon 10+ year member]

sounds like ur batt is dead

that is what i think but how is that possible? i disconnected the negative while i was finalizing the wiring. but its possible i could have left my interior lights on for too long while i was cleaning and reattaching the seats (took me foreverrrr!)

 

[path2spl 10+ year member]

yes get a volt meter on it make sure its above 12 volts stock nissan batts **** also that corosion dont look to good. also when you put the sound mat down make sure to clean the area really well then heat it up and then put it down it will sick better