20007+ GM Truck Electical Upgrade Thread. I stop when dimming stops.

[badstang123 10+ year member]

I have a 2009 Avalanche with the system in sig. The system will do about 1500 watts rms and when I crank it up and the subs hit , it will cause headlight dimming. What I intend to do in this thread is show each small step I take until it is eliminated, so that others will have a useful guide on what upgrades help the most and how far they have to go in order to alleviate voltage drop off and dimming lights.

Don't forget that during this process I will also be combating the variable output alternator that lowers voltage output to 12.7 volts when the battery is fully charged. I also intend to take my modifications to the extent where I have the stock alternator putting out at least 14.4 volts at all times.

The starting point. My system has a 0 gauge lead from the positive battery terminal with a 250 amp ANL fuse. The run of 0 gauge leads to a distribution block within a few inches of the amps and a set of 4 gauge power and ground wires for each individual amp.

Upgrade 1 - The Big 3:

Alternator wire to fusible link upgraded to 0 gauge

I left the factory fusible link intact and upgraded the wire from battery side of fusible link to the battery to 0 gauge as well. The starter wire was also moved from battery terminal to battery side of fusible link due to available wiring inputs on battery terminals.

The negative battery terminal to chassis ground was upgraded to 0 gauge and relocated to top of the shock mount which is part of the main chassis

I still have to do the block to chassis upgraded to 0 gauge but no one local had anymore 0 gauge ring terminals. This mounting point on the block is within 6 inches of where the other ground on the shock terminal is, so I will connect it at the same point when I have the needed terminals

I still have some cleaning up to do and shortening of a few wires but here is the end result so far.

Lucky Bonus!!!!

The factory system for monitoring the battery's full charge and reducing output to 12.7 volts when fully charged is monitored via the following ring and electrical connector which the stock ground wires run through:

I don't know if the additional separate 0 gauge chassis ground (Obviously outside this ring) is now the path of least resistance and is affecting the PCM's way of monitoring whether the battery is fully charged through that loop, but since I installed the new negative battery terminal to chassis ground in 0 gauge, the net result is that the system always maintains over 14 volts. I thought I would need to buy Missing Link Audio's unit but so far so good without it. I will keep an eye on it over the next week and keep you all updated.

Despite The Big Three, on bass hits at high volumes, the headlights still dim. My next step will be the block to chassis ground in 0 gauge (Which I do not think will make little difference given that it's already 4 gauge) and then I will probably put a good battery up front since there is no room for one in the rear (I would like recommendations on this). Any input or suggestions are appreciated and I will keep you all updated on my progress so others with 2007 and up Chevy Trucks and SUV's know what works best when doing electrical upgrades.

Best Regards

- Justin -

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[Stephen_c 10+ year member]

cool

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

Alright here is where I am at. After a couple days of driving the vehicle continues to charge to 14 volts, so the alternator is charging at high voltage at all times and not dropping to 12.7 once the battery is charged. At idle I am seeing about 14.2 or 14.3 volts.

While playing bass heavy tracks at high volumes I got a lowest voltage drop down to 12.9 volts (This measured at the battery and the amps the same). In addition, as mentioned before, I am still getting headlight dimming while driving on hard bass hits. I tested the battery and got a reading of 800 CCA and the battery is rated at 70 ah. I'm thinking a battery upgrade is the next logical step. I've looked at many batteries and the highest output I could find within the needed dimensions is the Kinetik HC 2000 (12 length is the max and height around 8 inches maybe 8.5 max).

Is this a good battery for my power output and do you guys think it will alleviate the voltage drop that I am seeing. Are there any other options that will fit and perform better. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

- Justin -

 

[kush-divinity 10+ year member]

Honestly, think of an Optima battery for up front.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Alright here is where I am at. After a couple days of driving the vehicle continues to charge to 14 volts, so the alternator is charging at high voltage at all times and not dropping to 12.7 once the battery is charged. At idle I am seeing about 14.2 or 14.3 volts.
While playing bass heavy tracks at high volumes I got a lowest voltage drop down to 12.9 volts (This measured at the battery and the amps the same). In addition, as mentioned before, I am still getting headlight dimming while driving on hard bass hits. I tested the battery and got a reading of 800 CCA and the battery is rated at 70 ah. I'm thinking a battery upgrade is the next logical step. I've looked at many batteries and the highest output I could find within the needed dimensions is the Kinetik HC 2000 (12 length is the max and height around 8 inches maybe 8.5 max).

Is this a good battery for my power output and do you guys think it will alleviate the voltage drop that I am seeing. Are there any other options that will fit and perform better. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

- Justin -

I think the HC2000 would be perfect for your install. You should see much less dimming with a good battery. I am not sure it will completely eliminate all of the dimming though since it will be under the hood. Best thing to do is get one installed and test again.

Oh and get that last ground (block to chassis) done ASAP. You might not think it is important, but it is.

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

I think the HC2000 would be perfect for your install. You should see much less dimming with a good battery. I am not sure it will completely eliminate all of the dimming though since it will be under the hood. Best thing to do is get one installed and test again.
Oh and get that last ground (block to chassis) done ASAP. You might not think it is important, but it is.

Would I lose much by going with the 1800? Because I'm running so close on space that 12" might start rubbing on stuff. Think there would be a noticeable difference between the two?

And yeah yeah...I'll get the block one done and complete the loop //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Would I lose much by going with the 1800? Because I'm running so close on space that 12" might start rubbing on stuff. Think there would be a noticeable difference between the two?
And yeah yeah...I'll get the block one done and complete the loop //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I would say it would be a minimal difference. If the two inches extra on the HC2000 are too much, then just go with the HC1800. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

I would say it would be a minimal difference. If the two inches extra on the HC2000 are too much, then just go with the HC1800. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

Yeah most of the time two extra inches is good. This is one of the few times it may not be //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I'll have to measure again to be sure.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

BTW, you might want to change the title of this thread since it will be 18k years before it is relevant //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

I picked up the Kinetik HC1800 and installed it today. Gave me a little grief since the the battery negative and positive terminals are opposite my stock battery but I made some rearrangements and it's all good now.

After the install I am seeing a constant 14.4 volts at idle instead of 14.2 volts. In addition, when I started running the stereo at higher volumes the alternator seems to be compensating far quicker and I see about 15.0 volts. On hard bass notes playing the same track I was before instead of a drop down to 12.9 volts I normally see a drop to about 13.7. The lowest drop was down to 13.3 volts but I still haven't even driven the vehicle around to make sure the battery is fully charged. Overall I'm real happy with it so far and I will post further results after it's been driven a good amount of time and I know that battery is fully charged. Here's some pics:

Battery with my tie down strap behind it:

Installed. Fit like a glove:

 

[vandiar2 10+ year member]

how many amps is your alt? I am fighting a voltage drop running about the same (1500rms) have stock bat up front and batcap 2000 in the back. voltage drops as low as 11.9 at the amps in the back, though I have some ideas to correct this thanks to loop. loop=uber

EDIT: forgot to say.. GOOD JOB MAN!

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

LMAO! The battery blew up the first drive. The whole top label started bubbling from the center and got huge until one small portion of it made a whole and all the air pressure released. Then when I pulled it out it actually had 12.8 volts but also had continuity between the posts. Not good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

LMAO! The battery blew up the first drive. The whole top label started bubbling from the center and got huge until one small portion of it made a whole and all the air pressure released. Then when I pulled it out it actually had 12.8 volts but also had continuity between the posts. Not good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

That does not sound good. It looked so good in your pictures too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

So was it the sticker that bubbled or was it like th plastic case that melted? Do you have any after pics? The continuity is not good either. Where did you buy it from? Was it used or brand new? There should be a date code on it somewhere, I think it is on the bottom.

Keep us updated.

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

That does not sound good. It looked so good in your pictures too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
So was it the sticker that bubbled or was it like th plastic case that melted? Do you have any after pics? The continuity is not good either. Where did you buy it from? Was it used or brand new? There should be a date code on it somewhere, I think it is on the bottom.

Keep us updated.

It wasn't the case. Just the sticker that bubbled up. Kinda like it was letting gasses out of the top of the battery. It was brand new purchased from Sonic Electronics. I only had it 1 day before I put it in. I'm going back there today for a replacement (They are right down the street).

 

[badstang123 10+ year member]

how many amps is your alt? I am fighting a voltage drop running about the same (1500rms) have stock bat up front and batcap 2000 in the back. voltage drops as low as 11.9 at the amps in the back, though I have some ideas to correct this thanks to loop. loop=uberEDIT: forgot to say.. GOOD JOB MAN!

I'm actually not positive on the specs of my alt. I would imagine it's probably like a 160 something around there. It's just the stock alt for the 5.3L Engine in the new Chevy trucks.