2000 Chrysler 300m, 4k rms rebuild. lots of pics

mendon mafia
10+ year member

`94 caprice, 15" Fi BTL
Hye guys. Since im moving away to Philly for grad school in september and will not have my car with me I decided to do a build log before I run of of time.

This is basically a revamp to make everything ready for when i graduate at will be running ~7krms+.

part of the inspiration of this is since my alternator is pretty much fried and im going to need a new one i figured i might as well run more wire make things more fit and finished and build a nice enclosure lol. not sure how far ill get on the fit and finished tho haha.

Ive already done a lot of work recently but started work on the system today.

Im thinkin 4.5 cubes net at 33 hz with ~80 inches of port area for the box. Firing into the cabin sealed off.

Equiptment:

JVC kda805 headuint

jbl gto 6x9s mounted in the rear shelf with infinity kappa xovers and tweeters mounted in the rear doors powered by the rear outputs on the headunit.

Polk MOMO mm6 components (recently blew the tweets lol)

Soundmagus cp91 bridged to the mm6's

2 atomic 3000's

1 15" fi btl d2 fully loaded

2 stinger spv70

1 stock battery

lots of 1/0 (~100')

1 200 amp alt by MCR (same one thats getting weak but I have a lifetime warranty so ill be getting a new one. i might sell it though and buy one from dc or somthing, after graduation)

pics in a bit theres a lot and they need to upload. theres even more pics of some mods ive done on my sisters camera that i will try to post tomorrow

 
Last edited by a moderator:
not enough batts for 6kw
going to be at 4 ohm so only 4k until i get more batts then im going to put it to 1 ohm which should be good for 7k+. I was running one stinger the other day with the stock battery and the failing alt and it did alright with one 3k at 1 ohm, wasnt great but acceptable all things considering. I will be adding at least one more stinger in the future, my buss bars are big enough for 3.

 
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batts and buss bars

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this was in the trunk before with the port out the passenger side

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found out why BOTH my amps kept cutting out. the both looked like this with no solder

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watch out for amps made this day, must have been a bad one lol

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now there rock solid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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box'o'wire about 70' there and theres already ~40' in the car ioncluding the big three

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ok guys, so obviously i am, as everyone else is, concerned about my electrical and my big3 so if anyone sees any thing that would make an improvement or if you have any ideas at all i would greatly appreciate if you let me know.

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Legit or not? looks thin to me and fits into the copper 1/0 lugs kinda easy, but its elemental designs...

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another angle

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front battery mounted in the best place ever, you need to take the wheel and mud panel off to service it i will probably fix this up though and get a deep cycle. I was unable to get a picture of the other negative terminal but i will if i decide to add another run to the front battery ground

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heres the piece of 1/0 that comes from the battery- and goes to the grounding post.

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theres the grounding post. the blue 1/0 goes to the alternator chassis

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the 2 wires to the left that are kindof parallel run to the front battery and grounding post. the wire that is perpindicular to thoes 2 runs to my engine block, and this is where THINGS GET COMPLICATED! that other wire is pretty much usless it connects the mounting holes of the alt, in my mind it was to make the alt case more conductive but it probably does nothing.

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ok so the wire on the left is the one that goes to the alt case in the previous pic it connects to a large piece of metal (possibly cylinder head not sure tho) which is bolted to the engine block very securly. notice how the wire to the right does not connect to the same spot but it connects to a bolt lower down which is the actual engine block. Should i add a wire between the 2 or should it be scuffient?

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another angle. thoes braided lines were stock. they are now replaced

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this is where the wire from the engine block grounds to. its the same spot the braided wire went to. is this spot questionable?

 
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the source unit

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old box from the trunk

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front stage amp mounted to the under side of rear dash. I might stick with this location maybe

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stripped of the old crappy homedepot stuff ready for some edead

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another box'o'wire. 8 ga speaker wire and other install crap

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my car. notice the polished alumnium windshield trim. i just did that. it was flat black before. took forever to get it right with the clear coat

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night shaded tails. I think im going to put one more coat on.

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the woofage. its still quite stiff after a few weeks of hard play time

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tripple leads under spiders ftw

 
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it was hot today haha

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custom pass through.

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box and amps out. test fitting the sub for forward firing. will it fit.....

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seats out. takes about a minute to take the bottom seat out and about ten minuites of struggling to get the back off. will it fit now?

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i now have 15.5" of clearance without the carpeting, I think in going to go gasketless and possibly a slight tilt its gonna be close.

 
Ok now i need some opinions, how should i mount the atomics? Im pretty sure i want to put one on the rear dash and do something with fiberglass Please help me figure out something cool.

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considering both but it barely fits, the mounting feet over lap and ill have to do something drastic to the rear dash panel to make it work and i have no idea how i would even do that

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this also barely fits, probably wont unless i cut the the interior c pillars

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i made a plexi back. i would love to mount the amp upside down but im cincenrend with cooling and i think mounting it would be awakward and i would somehow need to cut the dash panel to make it look right. any thoughts here would be very helpful.

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preped for glassing a beauty panel. not sure how to do this at all.

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Here you can see where the wires come up through the floor in th rear. youy can also see my new grounding post in the rear. THe orange wire runs to the grounding post under the hood. Previously i did not have a ground to the body in the rear and the orange wire had a piece a silver wire spliced to it to make it longer to reach my battery bank, this was probably why my alt died im assuming.

I think i might take the wire out of the rocker panel and drill through the fire wall and not come throught the floor in the back since i think im going to add another set of runs directly from the alt to the rear

 
Looks good so far, I like the polished windshield trim. I am going to paint mines. A quick way too get the battery is, remove the airbox. I have an Intrepid.

 
anybody got any ideas for the rear shelf? cant believe only 2 comments so far.

btw if anyone wants that birch box ill sell it for $40 + ship. the wood cost me $45 to make it. its 34x32x12.5 and its 4.5 cubes net tuned to 30-31hz only single baffle but there is braces and the port wall so provide a very sturdy face for the woofer. also theres a 45 in the port. its a nice box imo, just needs carpet

 
btw i had a dr. appointment today so im just getting started now. might not get to much done today , its so humid and hot here. also i just bought some edead 80. i got 50^ hopefully enough for my trunk. should be here in a week or so i would guess

 
didnt get much done today it was really hot and i didnt want to be in the garage. i worked on sealing the rear deck with some thin ply wood, gorilla glue, caulk and foam tape. needs a lot more work but i night just wait for the deadener. Im only going to neeg great stuff in 2 spots to get it completely sealed so im pretty happy about that.

 
I was really thing about running two 12"s SX or XXX. But now i see there isn't too much room o these cars. Might just pickup 2 12's Se and call it a day. The battery is a b1tch to get too. Good luck on your build i'll keep an eye on it.

 
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mendon mafia

10+ year member
`94 caprice, 15" Fi BTL
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