20 Hz bass questions:

[amartin_72]

If you really want a low low monster yes consider switching subs. xmax does help the lows but i would guage my choice on solid opinions rather than specs that vary between every manufacturer. the only expirience i have with those pioneers is a friend with 2 of them and weve only tired 2 boxes, but they stil seem like more 35hz and up pounders which they do well at!

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

If you really want a low low monster yes consider switching subs. xmax does help the lows but i would guage my choice on solid opinions rather than specs that vary between every manufacturer. the only expirience i have with those pioneers is a friend with 2 of them and weve only tired 2 boxes, but they stil seem like more 35hz and up pounders which they do well at!

Any ideas on a good EQ that will let me dial in more and more bass at lower frequencies to make up for the characteristics of these subs? In reality my head unit sucks for audio control and I need something to EQ 5.1 channels, built in crossovers, bass control knob, time alignment, and like I said alot of control over the sub channel. A stiff bill, but after retiring my auto EQ pioneer head unit, I am going for the most control possible. I have seen alot of really cool digital equalizers with 32 band eq's, 8 band sub eq's, TA, crossovers, ect but they are tailored for integration to factory head units with speaker level inputs which pissses me off.

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

Give me your max dimensions and I'll give you a box design to try. It will be for only one sub but it should give you the low frequency extension and accuracy you're looking for. A transmission line enclosure for a single 12 should be an excellent option over the two or one sealed.

Also, a low tuned ported enclosure (tuned around 20hz) will sound basically identical to a sealed box from about 35-80hz. It will have a boosted low end but wouldn't be overly loud. I bet it would be very flat and would still perform very well on fast drum beats.

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

The face of my box must be exactly 35 1/4" by 13" in order for it to seal off airtight from the trunk. My current box is 14 1/2" deep. The depth is the only factor I can change, and I can go 15 1/4" deep max while still being able to slide out the spare tire. I had chosen not to go to the max for easier removal of the tire, but that is the absolute max. The internal dimensions of 33 3/4" x 11 1/2" x 13" give me 2.92 cubic feet. The front of my box is about 6" from the seatback. I drilled holes in the seatbacks and made my own pass through ski hatch where the armrest folds down. I am afraid ported boxes and the like would not load well in the car because of the rear seats which I prefer to keep folded up with armrest down. That picture of mine is the current setup, just a large sealed box and single woofer.

Again, I don't care in the least about efficiency, only about linear response down to 20hz with minimal peaks above that. I need low bass, I wont settle with a 24db rolloff off on a port tuned to 35 Hz. I would imagine any ported box with an F3 of 20Hz would be gigantic for my woofer.

I hope to get a perfect flatline on the sub later on with an 8 band subwoofer equalizer. By the way my subs are pioneer premier TSW-3004SPL's:

Fs: 26.2 Hz

Vas: 1.324 ft^3

QTS: 0.32

Thank you if you have any ideas.