$150 to spend

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER 10+ year member]

I currently have a JL Audio j2 250.1 amp and a JL 8w1v2 sub. I love the setup, but it's not near as tight/punchy as I'd like. I'm not looking to shake the car, I usually listen at relatively low levels. My preference would be to keep my current amp as my budget is low and I've got no need for a more powerful setup. So, I've got about $150 to spend on a good quality sub, IF I can get one that'll work on 250 watts @ 2 ohms. I have no specified size, I'll make a custom box based on the sub. I've heard a lot about the SSA Dcon, and this seems to fit my power and budget. Also know a good while back Image Dynamics was popular for a SQ sub, not sure if I've got the power to push that or not. Any suggestions?

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[09civic 5,000+ posts]

Ive heard nothing but good things about the dcon. But as far as it being an SQ sub, i have no idea

 

[dragonrage 10+ year member]

Regardless of what anyone tells you, SSA does not make any SQ subs. Reason being they all use conventional motors that do not have any technology to linearize the BL curve. This may sound like mumbo jumbo to you but feel free to research into it if you like. The short of it is that they will increase their distortion quickly as you turn up the volume because the amount of force exhibited on the voice coil by the motor (magnet assembly) is varying wildly with excursion. That said, for a conventional motor, they are definitely not the worst sounding. They are NOT one-note boomers. They will sound okay at best.

For your situation, I recommend the Dayton Reference series. It is a bit better than the IDQ in SQ for less money. It has almost the same output capability as the IDQ, which is pretty good but not amazing.

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For a 12", you want the RSS315HO-44 and it is DVC 4 ohms. For a 10", it's RSS265HO-4, but unfortunately is only SVC 4 ohms. It will work on 125 watts but the 12" on 250 watts would be a fair amount better.

 

[Cruzer 10+ year member]

these are some of the best sq subs out there, and they match PERFECT with ur amp, rated at 175 watts and they are 4 ohm drivers

they are a little more than u wanted to spend, but they are well worth it

10" peerless xxls

Peerless 835016 10" Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer

12" peerless xxls

Peerless 835017 12" Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER 10+ year member]

Thanks for the info. I've searched this forum, and seen the dcon suggested for those looking for SQ/SQL. Quality is my number one concern, I don't care about loudness.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

What type of box is your sub in now? If its sealed Id go with a properly built ported box and see how that works out.

Youve got the power for a single ID8D2V3, but thats a side step rather than an upgrade.

 

[dragonrage 10+ year member]

XXLS is indeed another good choice. They do like a bigger box than the Daytons, though. Do not feel like you need to avoid the Daytons because your amp is weak.

Do not go for an 8". Cone area is more efficient than stroke, not that an ID8 is going to be impressive in either. 10" is the absolute minimum. The less power you have, the bigger the cone area you should be looking at. It is MUCH better to drive a 21" subwoofer with 100w than it is to drive an 8". Again, cone area is more efficient than anything else.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER 10+ year member]

Great info, thanks! I went with a 8" sub originally because I was able to fit it in the stock sub enclosure (sealed ~.6 cu ft) and not lose any cargo space. I'm now looking at doing a custom build which will integrate a sub box, which I can make it a 10" or 12" (prefer 10" for size). My amp will do 175 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. That XXLS 10 seems to fit my specs. Would it work good in a sealed enclosure? How big would the enclosure need to be?

 

[dragonrage 10+ year member]

The XXLS 12 is good in like 2cuft, so the 10 is probably gonna want around 1.25-1.5cuft, and use stuffing. Someone else might be willing to model it up for you but I'm heading out the door right as I click reply.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER 10+ year member]

Appreciate your input. I'd really like to stay at 1 ft^3 or less if possible, the whole reason I went with the 8 to begin with was due to not wanted to loose cargo space. I really like the IDQ10v2 with dual 4 ohm voice coils. I can wire this in and give it 250 watts RMS (which is what they list for it) and it's suggested in a .25-.5 ft^3 enclosure, which is ideal for what I want. It's just over my budget, but doable. What I don't want to do is waste money on this if there's something better out there for the same or less money. I just can't sacrifice much cargo space.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Appreciate your input. I'd really like to stay at 1 ft^3 or less if possible, the whole reason I went with the 8 to begin with was due to not wanted to loose cargo space. I really like the IDQ10v2 with dual 4 ohm voice coils. I can wire this in and give it 250 watts RMS (which is what they list for it) and it's suggested in a .25-.5 ft^3 enclosure, which is ideal for what I want. It's just over my budget, but doable. What I don't want to do is waste money on this if there's something better out there for the same or less money. I just can't sacrifice much cargo space.

You can look at the JBL P1024's. Very nice subs and alot of people love them.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Brand New Eclipse SW6010 10" Car Subwoofer 1300 Watt - eBay (item 180529558441 end time Apr-01-11 17:01:03 PDT)

wont find a betetr deal, desinged by tc sound and built here in america, you cant find these anymore

ECLIPSE Subwoofers SW6210/SW6010 | Fujitsu Ten

sell your amp and get a

Cadence A5+HC 600 Watt Competition Class D Mono Block - eBay (item 260746239577 end time Mar-09-11 07:51:03 PST)

trult beatiful sounding amp, look at the low thd THD:

bult here in the us by zed audio

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER 10+ year member]

Bump, any other suggestions?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

XXLS is indeed another good choice. They do like a bigger box than the Daytons, though. Do not feel like you need to avoid the Daytons because your amp is weak.
Do not go for an 8". Cone area is more efficient than stroke, not that an ID8 is going to be impressive in either. 10" is the absolute minimum. The less power you have, the bigger the cone area you should be looking at. It is MUCH better to drive a 21" subwoofer with 100w than it is to drive an 8". Again, cone area is more efficient than anything else.

'Cone area is more efficient than stroke' makes no sense. Air displacement = cone area * stroke. Both factors are of equal value in that equation.

If you mean you get more output out of a 15" sub than you do an 8", given the same input power, that's true. It takes more power to increase excursion, but not cone diameter, right? But the sacrifice made by the larger sub over the smaller one is enclosure size. And how do you increase the 8's efficiency to increase its excursion (stroke) while maintaining the same input power? Increase enclosure size. Cone area is not the dominating factor you are suggesting it is.

 

[dragonrage 10+ year member]

What I said makes perfect sense. It is more efficient to achieve output via cone area than it is to achieve it via stroke. That is a fact.

The technologies that enable a longer stroke tend to decrease sensitivity. On the other hand, you automatically gain 3dB of output by doubling your cone area while keeping the same overall power.