So I got myself a '13 Escape, which I'm really happy with except for the fuel economy that it's not getting (22/30? more like 18/26 best case!), and that the so-called "premium" stereo isn't so premium. Needless to say that I expected the latter of the two, and there's actually something I can do about it!
My plan is to swap out the stock 6.5" components (no big deal), replace the factory amp (pretty easy), and swap the factory sub for an aftermarket using the same enclosure (seemingly impossible).
For the door speakers, I'm looking at either a set of Infinity Kappa 600.09CS (or maybe their replacement 60.11cs) or the Alpine SPR-60C. I'm leaning towards the Kappas, with a lower ohm rating, better range, and higher efficiency, but the components I had in my Impala were Alpine SPR-17S that I was pretty happy with. I'm shooting for the $100-150 price range (since I've got two sets to replace), but it looks like either should work fine. I feel like 75W (at 4ohm) will be enough for the Alpines, but the 100W (at 2ohm) will be a little more optimal for the Kappas, I think.
I've got a JL HD900/5 from my Impala build that I was going to use, but ended up grabbing a JL XD700/5 because of the power on the sub channel. Space will be ideal near the spare for the 700/5 anyway, and I'm sure it'll be enough power. My only problem at this point is figuring out what wires are what, since there doesn't seem to be any documentation, but that shouldn't take long. The only potential problem I've got on this one is that I'm keeping the stock head unit (at least for the time being) since it's actually decent and has some features I like (HD radio, far better Bluetooth integration than the Pioneer gear I've got), but the installed system is actually 5.1, and I'm not sure if the head unit is putting out 4, 4.1 or 5.1. I'm hoping that it just dumps out 4 or 4.1 and the amp mixes either the sub or center channel, that way I can just leave the center channel dead, but I'll worry about that later (any info anyone has would be greatly appreciate, as this one's a mystery for the time being).
The sub is where I'm running into a problem. I want to use the factory 8" box behind the driver's side panel in the trunk, since it's very well concealed and makes it extremely easy to haul crap around. It's a standard diameter 8 with a normal bolt pattern (cool). However, it's really shallow. REALLY shallow. Front to back it's 3.125", and the back of the magnet is not only touching the back of the enclosure, but there's also a BOLT going through the back of the enclosure and into the magnet. I'm assuming that it's for stability, but I figure that I can plug it easily enough. But that's a crazy shallow sub. A buddy suggested making a spacer, but there's only enough room in front of the sub for about 7/8" at MOST, and that's assuming that the cone won't push past the top of the basket (I doubt that'll be an issue). With 300W (at 2ohm) on the sub channel it should be pretty good for an 8", especially one that's in what's an open trunk (at most there's a pull-over cover that's very acoustically transparent), but I'm at a loss for a sub. The closest I managed to find is an Alpine SWR-843D that seems like it's the best case, except that it's about 3/4" too long. I can't find anything that's small enough, or can handle the power, or that doesn't look like hot garbage.
So here's the rundown of what I need:
1) Recommendations on the 6.5" components
2) Ideas for an 8" sub that'll fit in the factory location
3) Pinout for the factory Sony (Ford) amp, both in/out (this is a distant 3)
JL claims that they'll be making a Stealthbox for the Escape at some point, but my concern is that it'll blow my 100% factory look, plus that's a LOT of cash. I'm not someone talented enough to make a fiberglass enclosure, but if that's my only option I guess that's all I've got. Thanks for any ideas you guys might have!
My plan is to swap out the stock 6.5" components (no big deal), replace the factory amp (pretty easy), and swap the factory sub for an aftermarket using the same enclosure (seemingly impossible).
For the door speakers, I'm looking at either a set of Infinity Kappa 600.09CS (or maybe their replacement 60.11cs) or the Alpine SPR-60C. I'm leaning towards the Kappas, with a lower ohm rating, better range, and higher efficiency, but the components I had in my Impala were Alpine SPR-17S that I was pretty happy with. I'm shooting for the $100-150 price range (since I've got two sets to replace), but it looks like either should work fine. I feel like 75W (at 4ohm) will be enough for the Alpines, but the 100W (at 2ohm) will be a little more optimal for the Kappas, I think.
I've got a JL HD900/5 from my Impala build that I was going to use, but ended up grabbing a JL XD700/5 because of the power on the sub channel. Space will be ideal near the spare for the 700/5 anyway, and I'm sure it'll be enough power. My only problem at this point is figuring out what wires are what, since there doesn't seem to be any documentation, but that shouldn't take long. The only potential problem I've got on this one is that I'm keeping the stock head unit (at least for the time being) since it's actually decent and has some features I like (HD radio, far better Bluetooth integration than the Pioneer gear I've got), but the installed system is actually 5.1, and I'm not sure if the head unit is putting out 4, 4.1 or 5.1. I'm hoping that it just dumps out 4 or 4.1 and the amp mixes either the sub or center channel, that way I can just leave the center channel dead, but I'll worry about that later (any info anyone has would be greatly appreciate, as this one's a mystery for the time being).
The sub is where I'm running into a problem. I want to use the factory 8" box behind the driver's side panel in the trunk, since it's very well concealed and makes it extremely easy to haul crap around. It's a standard diameter 8 with a normal bolt pattern (cool). However, it's really shallow. REALLY shallow. Front to back it's 3.125", and the back of the magnet is not only touching the back of the enclosure, but there's also a BOLT going through the back of the enclosure and into the magnet. I'm assuming that it's for stability, but I figure that I can plug it easily enough. But that's a crazy shallow sub. A buddy suggested making a spacer, but there's only enough room in front of the sub for about 7/8" at MOST, and that's assuming that the cone won't push past the top of the basket (I doubt that'll be an issue). With 300W (at 2ohm) on the sub channel it should be pretty good for an 8", especially one that's in what's an open trunk (at most there's a pull-over cover that's very acoustically transparent), but I'm at a loss for a sub. The closest I managed to find is an Alpine SWR-843D that seems like it's the best case, except that it's about 3/4" too long. I can't find anything that's small enough, or can handle the power, or that doesn't look like hot garbage.
So here's the rundown of what I need:
1) Recommendations on the 6.5" components
2) Ideas for an 8" sub that'll fit in the factory location
3) Pinout for the factory Sony (Ford) amp, both in/out (this is a distant 3)
JL claims that they'll be making a Stealthbox for the Escape at some point, but my concern is that it'll blow my 100% factory look, plus that's a LOT of cash. I'm not someone talented enough to make a fiberglass enclosure, but if that's my only option I guess that's all I've got. Thanks for any ideas you guys might have!
