07 Dodge Regular Cab Pickup - Best 4 Speaker Size /Location /Configuration?

[Spankis]

I'm new to the site, so hopefully this is the correct subforum for this, but I've decided its time to replace the stereo and speakers in my truck, and I find myself at a crossroads. I'm very open to opinions.

Currently:

-Factory Dodge 4-speaker Non-Infinity Stereo (no factory amplifier)

-Factory 5 1/4" Speakers in rear of cab

-Factory 6x9" Speakers in Front doors

-NO 3.5" Speakers in dash (mounting buckets for optional 6 speaker system exist, no factory speaker wires to dash)

Planned:

-Replace factory headunit with aftermarket (likely Pioneer)

-Remove factory door speakers and factory speakers in rear of cab, replace with some combination of 4 new speakers (size and location to be determined)

Here's where I need the most help.... I could replace the factory 6x9s in the front doors with better 6x9s, and replace the rear 5 1/4" with an upgraded 5 1/4". Also, instead of 6x9s, I could also install component 6.5s in the front doors with an adapter ring/spacer. A third option could include ditching the rear cab speakers altogether, and wiring quality 3.5" speakers in the dash locations.

I'm up for adding a small 4 channel amp under the seat or behind the dash if its worth doing. I have no plans to add a sub at this time, and would likely only do a slim 8 or 10" down the road given limited space and the trucks daily use as a truck. Obviously I'll be missing the low lows without a sub, but what combination of 4 speakers will give me a the most full range system, without enormous gaps in frequency?

There is a TON of information on here, but so many options... Thanks in advance for any advice!

-Scott

Click to read more...

 

[CheЯRyMan]

2-sa12's ported in a custom console ram regular cab using black diamond mdf.

 

[Spankis]

Wow that's impressive! It is much more than I could ever see myself doing though, since I do still use the truck as a truck. My shifter would interfere with that too I believe, I would only have 1st, 3rd, and 5th lol.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

It would be tight, but you could fit 6x9 woofers in the doors and complement those with 2" mid/tweeters in the dash, or even 3.5" coaxials. Ask me about the speakers I have in mind. Adding a small amplifier would boost the volume and help with the bass. If that doesn't give you enough bass then you can work on the sub upgrade with another amplifier and a custom enclosure.

 

[CheЯRyMan]

I was showing you your other options. A stick shift you would just change the box length and you could go with a sealed setup to save more space.

 

[Spankis]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'm intrigued by the idea of woofers (I'm assuming you mean a true woofer, low range) in the doors, but slightly concerned that I'd be fighting vibration and rattle. The dash position, whether 3.5 or closer to a tweeter, would be replacing the rears completely I assume in that scenario?

Which speakers do you have in mind?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I'm intrigued by the idea of woofers (I'm assuming you mean a true woofer, low range) in the doors, but slightly concerned that I'd be fighting vibration and rattle.

This is always a concern with a good speaker upgrade, we're just taking the tweeter out of the door and moving it up to the dash so it sounds more like a band is playing up there.

The dash position, whether 3.5 or closer to a tweeter, would be replacing the rears completely I assume in that scenario?

The rear speakers can stay if we do a 2-way component system up front. If the vehicle wasn't able to play loudly enough for your liking then I strongly recommend you add an amplifier.

 

[Spankis]

Any suggestions on specific speakers or models? I see very few component 6x9 options, and the few of them are very pricey or from manufacturers I'm not familiar with. Also looking for decent 5.25 rears, and Polk makes a db coaxial I am considering, as I didn't think components would be worth messing with for the "rear fill".

 

[budahbuddy803 10+ year member]

Personally, I would run a set of 6.5" components on an amp. 6.5" mids in the door, tweeters mounted higher on the door (by the handle or in the A-pillars), deaden the doors, and reaplce the factory HU.

Doing this would provide you with better SQ than running "rear" speakers, give you a decent "stage" and, IMO, be a lot easier.

 

[Spankis]

Any suggestions on a capable component 6.5 set? With just those I'd certainly be amping them. Are there 6.5s that won't leave me missing the bass of a 6x9?

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Any suggestions on a capable component 6.5 set? With just those I'd certainly be amping them. Are there 6.5s that won't leave me missing the bass of a 6x9?

how much do you want to spend //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

JBL P660C 6.5" Power Series Component Speakers System

great component speakers for the price

JBL P562 5-1/4" 2-way Power Series Speakers - Sonic Electronix

with these in the rear

add a sub for low end range //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Precision P900.5 Power 5-Channel 900 Watt Max Class D Car Amplifier - Rakuten.com

great 5 channel amp for the price

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Ct Sounds Tropo V1 0 10 D2 250 Watt RMS 10" Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer Sub | eBay

2 of these

DODGE REG CAB 2-10" DOWNFIRE VENTED W/ AMP RACK

would be a nice setup

 

[Spankis]

I'd go as much as $200 or so on 6.5 components, if that's all I'm going with. I figure another $200 or so for a decent amp.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, keep em coming. I may try to order a few things this weekend if I can come to a conclusion.

 

[Spankis]

Here is what I'm considering:

HU: Pioneer DEHX9600BHS

Front Doors via 6x9-6.5 adapter: JBL P660C (2ohm)

Rear 5.25: Alpine SPS-510 (4ohm)

Amp: Blaupunkt EMA 455 (600w, 2 ohm stable)

Seem reasonable? Are the rear 5.25s a waste? If so, I'd consider a different 6.5 and amp most likely. Not an issue running 2 ohm fronts and 4 ohm rears to a 2 ohm stable 4-channel correct?

Better options I'm missing?