Recent content by pjhabit

A 6.5" midrange driver isn't designed for low/sub frequency reproduction. To get any kind of functional output @ those frequencies would require more surface area &/or throw. A higher HP setting will increase efficiency (& power handling), within the smaller bandwidth, & tighten up...

Hope that helps

Use a recording w/ a good center image vocal. With your other speakers disconnected, flip the polarity of one of the tweets. If the image sounds more diffused, swap the polarity of one of the tweets again (either one, it doesn't matter). If the image sounds more focused, leave it be for the time...

I have the BCK-26As, which are just the DRT-26A(luminiums)s with the braxial mount, & I love em'. I had the DRT-25s before & the DRT-26As are definitely an upgrade that's worth the price difference IMHO. The aluminium DRTs have great detail & are nonfatiguing w/o being soft or too...

I'd sure *have* a hard time level matching w/o em' I understand what you're saying & I agree to an extent. But not everyone has restraint w/ the volume controls.

Sure it can. It only requires 3dB of boost to demand twice the output from an amp. Boosted signal = more voltage to the amp.. meaning the DMM reading you had prior to boosting has also boosted. Again, this is why it's recommended to cut rather than boost, as gains should need readjusting after...

Music is dynamic, no matter what RMS it's recorded @ (-20 dB or -3 dB) it can & does have peaks near or @ 0 dB (clipping). So 0 dB tones are recommended to insure the transient peaks in the music aren't clipped. A -3 dB recording is awful, as it only has 3 dB of dynamic range before it runs...

The PSS-6i mid is supposed to be one of their best sounding drivers. But it has limited throw so midbass wouldn't be its strong suit. The ES-06 has plenty of midbass but the midrange is a bit subdued. The ES-6 would be a good compromise between the 2. I own a set & am very pleased.

I like to keep the mid & tweet close. Generally its much easier to deal w/ a common point source (keeps things simple w/ minimal tuning). When listening to music from multiple point sources, issues like time arrival, phase shifts, colb filtering/frequency response, etc. all become more...

Boosting of any kind (ie volume, bass, treble, EQ, etc.) will raise the preout voltage the amplifier will see. While the gain setting doesn't physically change, the amp will be pushed closer to & eventually into clipping as the preout voltage rises. If you trust your ears, common sense w/...

If you want quality sound reproduction: Stick to one set of drivers for a given frequency bandwidth & keep them in front of you to create a proper sound stage. If you just want loud w/ complete disregard to quality: Add as many drivers as you can, wherever you can.

You're thinking of the 550 that's crossed @ 2.5kHz, the 560 is crossed @ 3.7kHz.

There's no ideal speaker placement, as a vehicle is a terrible environment for sound reproduction. But generally you'd strive for your speakers to be unobstructed, on-axis & equal path lengths to the listener, while keeping the mids & highs close to each other for a common point source...