Recent content by ngsm13

Thanks, Steph. You're the man. 

www.doyouevenpost.com

f*****g. Derp. 

Oh hai. 

Buncha *****. 

The important thing is to correctly fuse the wire. Keep in mind, with music, you won't be anywhere near 1400 watts sustained power. Music is dynamic. At 85% efficiency, you'll be at ~140A @12VDC. Really, you should step up to 1/0 for your main feed, and distribute from there. But, if you...

Amazon.com: TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty: Home Improvement

Whew.

It's algebra. Read my box design thread.

CT exists for one reason.

Throw the cap in the garbage. It's just as useful there.

Are you wanting to run a 3-way active setup? This requires an amp directly to tweeters, and amp directly to mids, and an amp directly to subs. All crossover points are done at the HU, (pre-amp) and your amplifiers are given a processed signal that is already crossed-over according to the...

My usual order of electrical upgrades is: -Big3 -Make sure you have sufficient size wire and solid ground to amp -Deep cycle battery to replace stock battery -Add 2nd same type deep cycle battery in rear

The amplifier could be shorted. It blows fuses with no speakers connected?

On the GenII Dakotas the stock alternators are fairly weak, but not that weak. Are you actually measuring this drop with a DMM or just looking at the dash Guage? Because even with 300 DC Power XP alternator, 2 D3100s, and 200 feet of OFC 1/0 my dash voltage guage in my Dakota moves more than it...