Recent content by MrWizzard

The voltage level plays a more important roll in distance really... less noise at long distances, and since the longer the cable, the more resistance, the better it is to have a good signal, but i dont think 16v is nessisary, 8v is probably plenty to get to the trunk of the car w/out probs...

Kewl, its an 03 alero, and the replacement alt is a 105 amp, so i assume its 105 amps or so... not even sure if its stock or not since it was 1 year used but it most likely is still stock.

Alright, my Stock Alt is 105 amps, i want to go cheap as possible for the electrical if i have too... I'll be running a XXX 12" 4 ohm DVC, on a zapco C2K 6.0 bridged into 2ohms (its either 900 rms or 1300 rms, i got conflicting info off zapco, hehe)... i'll proabably be running 100x2 for comps...

Hehe, yah, she looks familliar... like someone local i met, lol..... weird.

maybe you should just sell the sub and get a sub that requires a smaller ported box....

I'll take it man, i'm in canada though, i will also take the Sirius Tuner.... i was planning on getting the exact same HU with Tuner new for $300 or so, so i guess this is a good opertunity... hehe.... Long as u dont rip me off... 94.1% feed back, :p > mrwizzard@luxsci.net

wE canadians suc at spelng thins....tyeping to.

Probably cause you're running them at lower impedance than they can handle.... 4 comp sets? on one amp? hehe.

Not enough electricity = Amp Cut out at higher volumes... due to under voltage. Eg... if the amp has under voltage protection, then if you put 10V on it, the protect will stay on, put 11-14 and its fine, put more and it will also go on for over voltage protect.... So, if you're vehicles...

looks nice but hows the SQ? thats kinda cheap for somthing with a 3" TFT.... I was going to drop around the same price on a pioneer with 24 bit burr browns... i think that would sound better, but it is kewl to have a 3" TFT display...

RMS Power: 18W x 4 Peak Power: 72W x 4 Plain as day, 18W "RMS".... No more no less, hehe, probably at 18.5W, LOL....

What i would do in this annoying case, is take it out, try to run it externally... just disconnect the batt and hook the sereo on there direct (w/fuse tho) and get a completely diffrent speaker, one should work find, hook it up, power it on and see what happends.... if it dont work with it...

If you're electrical cant take it, amps will cut out on under voltage normally.... The only case i had that was diff was on an amp with floating ground where the ground also had to goto ground on the speakers... (weird) or it will keep cutting out when u try to turn it up...??

Yah, that XXX looks like a totally New monster... i think they should just keep the current XXX called the XXX and just name the new one somthing else..... oh well.

Build a BandPass box for that thing, it might help... i had two 10" 30wrms FULL Range speakers in a bandpass with guessed dimentions, and 4" ports... i just cut the ports to where it sounded best, and the thing bumped to my surprise! i was like Woah! WTF... hehe. I gave em like 50 wrms...