Recent content by Jepalan

Search for "audio controlled switch" or "audio controlled relay". I didn't look too closely, but here is an audio controlled relay that might work: https://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/Item/cebek-pm-11-audio-signal-controlled-relay-switch-module It is SPDT, so wire it so the CB/HAM activates...

Set the amp GAIN properly. If it is going into protect, you have to turn the gain down. If you think you have voltage drop issues, then you have to measure the voltage at the amp power terminals with a DMM and see if it drops as you turn up volume.

Since *both* amps won't produce sound focus on what is common to both amps: Power source? Are they both powered from same distro block? If so check battery to block connections - tighten block terminals and batt terminals - replace main feed fuse (even if it looks OK). Similar checks if...

I ran a DVC on only one VC for years. You can actually hit a single VC with about 75% of the full DVC rating and still be OK. There are several articles on the web about this. If you are running a sealed box then short out the other VC with a jumper wire and it will keep the parameters close...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Bona

Beaming is just off-axis roll-off. It has nothing to do with buzz. Although - it certainly is possible OP may have a damaged tweeter.

Agreed. But a foot or less of 8 awg will easily hold up long enough to blow the 250A 1/0 fuse in your prior example. That's all I was saying.

^^^ I agree 100%, but I generally only fuse splits off the distro block if the new run is 12" or longer. Short runs of small gauge can take a lot of current.

This feels like a failing RCA to me. If one of the cables is intermittent then it can fake out your test results. With the 'bad' amp in place and buzzing, wiggle each end of each RCA and see if the buzz comes & goes. Flex the cable near each connector as well. It could also be that the...

What kind of enclosure? Fiberglass? MDF? Birch? Concrete? Cast Iron? What kind of caulk? 100% Silicone? Acrylic Latex? In general, yes, regular caulk works fine for sealing joints inside sub box. Make sure the caulk dries completely before installing your sub because some caulks will out-gas...

1 inch of 16 AWG wire carrying 10 amps (max RMS current for your 400W RMS sub) is fine. It will not cause a problem at all. Move on. Current = SQRT(POWER/OHMS) = SQRT(400/4) = 10 amps VOLTAGE DROP = CURRENT * WIRE RESISTANCE = .01 volts (hundredth of a volt) This is NOT a problem

Yeah, you can unplug rears and run auto in your active setup. When you reconnect them they will smear your stage & imaging because they will be getting the same delay as fronts and will pull the image backwards, so barely turn up the rear channel gains at all. Do you have to run rears for...

Auto-EQ will likely fail the way you have it wired - it won't be able to time align either. If you are going to run front/rear/sub with 80PRS then run fronts and rears on passive xovers and set 80PRS to STD mode, then let it autoEQ everything - it can sound amazing. Otherwise, Network mode is...

Is this what you are running? DEH-80PRS Memphis 16-MC2004 50x4---->1.1" CDT HD-1 & 6.5" CDT CL-6E (rears) Memphis 16-MCA3004 75x4--->6.5" CDT HD-6CF (front) & Clarion 10" Are you running the 80PRS in network or standard mode? How are you connecting the 80PRS front/rear/sub (or...

Put the crossover freq for the mids back to match the tweets and try dropping the level (amp gain) going to the mids until they blend better. How did you set your amp gains for the active mid & tweet channels?