Recent content by DC8 Flyer

EEEK I could be wrong on this, but if you don't have both speakers hooked up to a passive crossover, doesn't that do funky things to the OHM load the amp sees? I think I read that in one of the tutorials that came with WinISD, but I could be very wrong this is what I read in the WinISD...

I think it really depends on the car too. My rear speakers are right behind my head and they really help to center the stage. I tried it without them and it seemed to "empty" behind me. Besides I only paid .99 for the speakers (kicker 6 inch coax) and they sound just fine!

If HiAmp doesn't want it, I would be willing to take that off your hands!

I don't really know of any "two way" CB type thingys. you would probably need two of these http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SCB135&Product_Count=1 (proper rating of course) Couple those with a 0 ga T block (1 0ga in, 2 0 ga out) and then run your 4ga off...

Well, they both do the same thing. I would think the CB would give you a little more flexibility, ie no changing of fuses. However, I haven't seen too many CB that are under 30 bucks, so for each fuse requirement you are spending some cash. I personally like the look of the fused distro over...

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm Good link about batteries.

Hey ya'll. I am thinking of changing my sub amp from an MTX 282 to a MTX 421D. I have been happy so far with the quality of the MTX I am using, but would like some input from anyone who has used the 421D. It will be used to push a single JL Audio 10" W3V2 Dual 4 ohm. Thanks...

I think I may have spoken out of turn about the fuse. I can't seem to find an ANL that is 140 amp, they seem to go in 30 amp increments, 60, 90, 120, etc. Also if you use 4ga for both amps you may start choking them off voltage wise as well, maybe. Is running a larger size wire or a second...

Keep in mind you are not fusing the wire to protect the amps, that is what they have the internal fuse for, you are fusing to protect the "wire" or more specifically your car. From the wire guid on this forum: 4 gauge: ~140 amperes Class D (~70% efficiency) - Class A/B (~50% efficiency) -...

If the bostons don't work out for you, I use kicker 6 inch components and to me they sound just fine. Nothing that is going to win a competion but they are clean, loud and easy to install (shallow depth on the midrange). Hunt around on ebay, I got my brand new for 100 bucks, I think they...

It's simple if you don't have to take the alternator off to do it. My car (94 Cavalier), you need a breaker bar to loostenthe serpintine belt to get the alternator off to attach the 0ga to it. Even my wife's hands were too big to get in there.

I had a similiar problem. The front and sub amp had no whine, but the rear speakers had a faint whine that was present any time the car was running and the the hu was on. I tried everything and even swapped amps around. I put the front amp on the rear speakers and the rear amp on the fronts...

I think, again I THINK, if this is a "factory" crossover you can't put more than one speaker on each output (one woofer one tweeter). The crossover is designed to a certain ohm load and if you change that load you change the load the amp sees to something you don't want. If you are building...

Ok, searched here and elsewhere and have tried most, haven't tried grounding the HU to the amps grounding block (I just got the car back together!). I thought I had conquered this problem with grounding the RCAs to the HU, but it is rearing its ugly head again. The whine is faint and does not...