Looking for a mid-range sound system upgrade.

MeAndMyA3

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hey all, my sound system sucks. Bad.
My front speakers are dead, my subwoofer is about to get split in half, my amplifier smells like burnt plastic sometimes, and the only good thing in my car are the stock rear speakers.

I want to have a sound system which will allow me to pleasantly listen to Sade on the way home from work, but also one which will allow me to blast the nastiest most bass-y techno to such a degree that people get angered when they see my trash heap of a vehicle.

So, time for an overhaul I said. I got myself a Sony CDX-GT930UI, amazing head unit and... that's it. I'm stuck. Too many options.
I want some help on getting the perfect sound system fit for my needs.

Currently I've decided on the Alpine SBG1224BP subwoofer with the MRV-250 amplifier. I think the bass part should be covered but I'd like a few opinions before fully committing.

As for everything else, I'm all open to ideas. Recommend me whatever speakers you guys think are the best for me.
For reference, my car's an Audi A3 8L 2000 2 door, with 13cm speakers in the front and 16cm speakers in the back.

PS: To the question of: Why do you have a subwoofer and amp in your car when your audio barely works - It was a gift for my car, so I thought I'd keep it. Plus it blocks out the screeching noise of the dying front speakers.
 
Hey all, my sound system sucks. Bad.
My front speakers are dead, my subwoofer is about to get split in half, my amplifier smells like burnt plastic sometimes, and the only good thing in my car are the stock rear speakers.

I want to have a sound system which will allow me to pleasantly listen to Sade on the way home from work, but also one which will allow me to blast the nastiest most bass-y techno to such a degree that people get angered when they see my trash heap of a vehicle.

So, time for an overhaul I said. I got myself a Sony CDX-GT930UI, amazing head unit and... that's it. I'm stuck. Too many options.
I want some help on getting the perfect sound system fit for my needs.

Currently I've decided on the Alpine SBG1224BP subwoofer with the MRV-250 amplifier. I think the bass part should be covered but I'd like a few opinions before fully committing.

As for everything else, I'm all open to ideas. Recommend me whatever speakers you guys think are the best for me.
For reference, my car's an Audi A3 8L 2000 2 door, with 13cm speakers in the front and 16cm speakers in the back.

PS: To the question of: Why do you have a subwoofer and amp in your car when your audio barely works - It was a gift for my car, so I thought I'd keep it. Plus it blocks out the screeching noise of the dying front speakers.
It sounds like you’re ready for a serious audio overhaul in your Audi A3! Given your needs for both high-quality sound for smooth artists like Sade and powerful bass for techno, let’s break down a complete system upgrade that will meet your requirements.

Current Setup and Goals​

  1. Head Unit: Sony CDX-GT930UI

  2. Subwoofer and Amplifier: Alpine SBG1224BP with MRV-250

Recommendations for Speakers​

Since you have 13cm (5.25”) speakers in the front and 16cm (6.5”) speakers in the back, here are some options that will provide great sound quality across different genres:

Front Speakers (13cm / 5.25”)​

  1. Focal 130 AC

  2. Alpine SPR-50

  3. JBL Club 5020

Rear Speakers (16cm / 6.5”)​

  1. Focal 165 AC

  2. Rockford Fosgate R165X3

  3. Alpine R-S65

Final Thoughts​

With the Alpine subwoofer and amp combo, along with a good set of front and rear speakers, you’ll be well on your way to achieving a balanced and powerful sound system that meets your needs for both smooth listening and bass-heavy tracks.

Make sure to take your time with the installation, and if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, consider hiring a professional to ensure everything is set up correctly.

Feel free to ask more questions or provide additional details about your preferences, and I encourage other members to share their recommendations or experiences with similar setups! Good luck with your audio upgrade
 
Hmmm how about.... Nice middle ground. Good mids and highs. Plenty of power. Will power the whole system with one amp and will wake up that 12" you have mentioned.



 
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The D4S is a good unit, got some power and is a quality amp.

This is a first-class 6-channel that can be wired into a great 5-channel configuration. Great internals, Korean boards, 18db slope (versus 12db) wideband crossovers 50hz to 8khz.


This is rated at 13.8, add about 20 watts per channel on 14.4.

S6 Rated Power output @ 13.8v (RMS):
Channels 1 through 4:
2ohm: 170w
4ohm: 100w
channel 1/2 or 3/4 Bridged at 4ohm: 350w

So, that is roughly 120x4 at 4 ohms.

Channels 5 and 6:
2 ohm: 350w
4 ohm: 200w
Bridged at 4ohm: 700w

This is, by and large, the budget King 5-ch amplifier out there. $186.00!


Ch-1-4, 140x4 at 4 ohms, 220x4 at 2 ohms.

Channel 5:

1280 x 1 at 1ohm, 980 watts x 1 @ 2ohms.

Now, if you simply get a short hair stuck up you're azz, this unit at $999.95 will blow it out better/faster than a monstrous flatulence after a 7 course mexican food themed dinner!


  • Channels 1-4:
  • RMS Power @ 2Ω: 625 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4V)
  • RMS Power @ 4Ω: 400 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4V)
  • RMS Power @ 4Ω (Bridged) : 1,250 Watts x 2 Channels (14.4V)
  • Channel 5:
  • RMS Power @ 1Ω: 3,500 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4V)
  • RMS Power @ 2Ω: 2,500 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4V)
  • RMS Power @ 4Ω: 1,500 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4V)
  • Channels 1-2
    • Frequency Response: 10Hz - 25KHz
    • High Pass Filter: 20Hz - 800Hz
  • Channels 3-4
    • Frequency Response: 10Hz - 25KHz
    • High Pass Filter: 20Hz - 800Hz ( 200Hz - 8KHz , x 10 Multiplier )
    • Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 800Hz ( 500Hz - 8KHz , x 10 Multiplier )
  • Channel 5
    • Frequency Response: 12Hz - 260Hz
    • Low Pass Filter: 35Hz - 250Hz
    • Subsonic Filter: 10Hz - 50Hz
    • Bass Boost: 0 - 12dB
    • Bass Boost Frequency: 20Hz - 80Hz
  • Input Sensitivity: 6V - 0.2V
  • Signal to Noise Ratio: 88dB <
  • THD @ 4Ω: > 0.1%
  • Fuse Rating: 600A
  • Dimensions: 23.23L x 9.05W x 2.56H

Dyno Results:

  • Subwoofer Channel (Channel 5)
    • Dynamic 0.5 ohm: 8,449 Watts @ 14.28V
    • Certified 0.5 ohm: 4,418 Watts @ 14.30V
    • Dynamic 0.67 ohm: 7,423 Watts @ 14.50V
    • Certified 0.67 ohm: 4,373 Watts @ 14.39V
    • Dynamic 0.8 ohm: 6,491 Watts @ 14.54V
    • Uncertified 0.8 ohm: 4,246 Watts @ 14.26V
    • Certified 0.8 ohm: 4,172 Watts @ 14.46V
    • Dynamic 1 ohm: 5,393 Watts @ 14.66V
    • Uncertified 1 ohm: 3,893 Watts @ 14.34V
    • Certified 1 ohm: 3,807 Watts @ 14.42V
    • Dynamic 2 ohm: 3,134 Watts @ 14.57V
    • Uncertified 2 ohm: 2,733 Watts @ 14.43V
    • Certified 2 ohm: 2,707 Watts @ 14.50V
    • Dynamic 4 ohm: 1,693 Watts @ 14.57V
    • Uncertified 4 ohm: 1,613 Watts @ 14.42V
    • Certified 4 ohm: 1,604 Watts @ 14.47V
  • Channels 1-4
    • Uncertified Bridged 4 ohm: 1,303 Watts x2 @ 14.71V
    • Certified Bridged 4 ohm: 1,310 Watts x2 @ 14.72V
    • Uncertified 2 ohm: 693 Watts x4 @ 14.45V
    • Certified 2 ohm: 697 Watts x4 @ 14.46V
    • Uncertified 4 ohm: 443 Watts x4 @ 14.56V
    • Certified 4 ohm: 445 Watts x4 @ 14.57V
 
Hey all, my sound system sucks. Bad.
My front speakers are dead, my subwoofer is about to get split in half, my amplifier smells like burnt plastic sometimes, and the only good thing in my car are the stock rear speakers.

I want to have a sound system which will allow me to pleasantly listen to Sade on the way home from work, but also one which will allow me to blast the nastiest most bass-y techno to such a degree that people get angered when they see my trash heap of a vehicle.

So, time for an overhaul I said. I got myself a Sony CDX-GT930UI, amazing head unit and... that's it. I'm stuck. Too many options.
I want some help on getting the perfect sound system fit for my needs.

Currently I've decided on the Alpine SBG1224BP subwoofer with the MRV-250 amplifier. I think the bass part should be covered but I'd like a few opinions before fully committing.

As for everything else, I'm all open to ideas. Recommend me whatever speakers you guys think are the best for me.
For reference, my car's an Audi A3 8L 2000 2 door, with 13cm speakers in the front and 16cm speakers in the back.

PS: To the question of: Why do you have a subwoofer and amp in your car when your audio barely works - It was a gift for my car, so I thought I'd keep it. Plus it blocks out the screeching noise of the dying front speakers.

I believe the next most important information we need is now much you are willing to spend. We can recommend a $500 system or a $5000 system. How just the audio equipment, you can get a decent sounding system around $500. Again, that does not include the wires, connectors, labor, etc...
 
I see that you’re in Bulgaria. Before I recommend any equipment for you, I need to know what brands are available in your area. I could recommend some great equipment for you, but if that brand is not available there, it does you no good.
 
I see that you’re in Bulgaria. Before I recommend any equipment for you, I need to know what brands are available in your area. I could recommend some great equipment for you, but if that brand is not available there, it does you no good.
How did I miss that?

Nothing like getting someone excited about gear they can afford - and likely can't get!
 
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Your vehicle, here in the U.S., shares the same platform as the Volkswagen Golf GTi MK4.

The Sony CDX-GT930UI has 6 preamp outputs.

If you're going to keep your Alpine bandpass subwoofer, a good-sounding sub, here are some options for the speakers and amplifiers.

I think the bot got at least one thing wrong: speaker size. I think you can get up to 6.75" (165mm to 175mm) in the front lower doors and the rear. You should consider 2-way components up front, so I'll try to find speakers that have the option of both coaxial and separate component options.

I ALWAYS recommend the same speaker make/model-type drivers/speakers front and rear.

For clarity, if I refer to the item as a speaker, or component speaker, it is a full-range solution incorporating both mid-bass and tweeter as in coaxial or separate component speakers.

Individual drivers mid-bass (среден-бас) or tweeters (високочестотни говорители) refer to each individually.

The HU is roughly $150.00 to $175.00 US, the sub and amp, a decent step up, definitely decent enough, so I'll try to keep that perspective regarding mid-budget additions for your everyday driver.

I'll suggest options, and you'll have to search for the best purchase option open to you in BG. I'll start by finding component 2-way speakers & coaxial speaker sets that can be purchased in both separate driver component sets and coaxial sets like the first ones listed from JBL. The rest, I'll just list the coaxials after as it's the most likely what you'll end up purchasing.

Front/rear speakers €50-€125.00

JBL Stage2 GEN2 65CF.

Components:- €76.00


Coaxial:- €47.00


Hertz CX 165 coaxial €99.00


Focal 2 Auditor ACX-165 coaxial €75.95


Ground Zero GZTF 6.5X coaxial €89.00


Ground Zero Audio GZRF 6.5SQ Coaxial €119.00

AUDISON PRIMA APX 6.5 Coaxial €98.00



JBL Car GTO 629 6.5 coaxial €95.00



4-channel amplifiers 2-4 ohm rated

Pioneer GM-D8704 4x100 @4 ohms €162.00


Rcoil DI800.4 4x125 @4ohms €120.00


Recoil DI1200.4 4x210 @4 ohms €139.99


JBL Concert A704 70x4 @4 ohms €174.00



Fosi Audio CA30 100x4 @4 ohms €160.00 (€128.00 w/voucher)


Ground Zero GZIA 135.4 4x135 @4 ohms €169.00


ETON MA 4 - Compact 4x105 @4ohms €269.00


AXTON A401:4x100 @4ohms €130.00

 
Your vehicle, here in the U.S., shares the same platform as the Volkswagen Golf GTi MK4.

The Sony CDX-GT930UI has 6 preamp outputs.

If you're going to keep your Alpine bandpass subwoofer, a good-sounding sub, here are some options for the speakers and amplifiers.

I think the bot got at least one thing wrong: speaker size. I think you can get up to 6.75" (165mm to 175mm) in the front lower doors and the rear. You should consider 2-way components up front, so I'll try to find speakers that have the option of both coaxial and separate component options.

I ALWAYS recommend the same speaker make/model-type drivers/speakers front and rear.

For clarity, if I refer to the item as a speaker, or component speaker, it is a full-range solution incorporating both mid-bass and tweeter as in coaxial or separate component speakers.

Individual drivers mid-bass (среден-бас) or tweeters (високочестотни говорители) refer to each individually.

The HU is roughly $150.00 to $175.00 US, the sub and amp, a decent step up, definitely decent enough, so I'll try to keep that perspective regarding mid-budget additions for your everyday driver.

I'll suggest options, and you'll have to search for the best purchase option open to you in BG. I'll start by finding component 2-way speakers & coaxial speaker sets that can be purchased in both separate driver component sets and coaxial sets like the first ones listed from JBL. The rest, I'll just list the coaxials after as it's the most likely what you'll end up purchasing.

Front/rear speakers €50-€125.00

JBL Stage2 GEN2 65CF.

Components:- €76.00


Coaxial:- €47.00


Hertz CX 165 coaxial €99.00


Focal 2 Auditor ACX-165 coaxial €75.95


Ground Zero GZTF 6.5X coaxial €89.00


Ground Zero Audio GZRF 6.5SQ Coaxial €119.00

AUDISON PRIMA APX 6.5 Coaxial €98.00



JBL Car GTO 629 6.5 coaxial €95.00



4-channel amplifiers 2-4 ohm rated

Pioneer GM-D8704 4x100 @4 ohms €162.00


Rcoil DI800.4 4x125 @4ohms €120.00


Recoil DI1200.4 4x210 @4 ohms €139.99


JBL Concert A704 70x4 @4 ohms €174.00



Fosi Audio CA30 100x4 @4 ohms €160.00 (€128.00 w/voucher)


Ground Zero GZIA 135.4 4x135 @4 ohms €169.00


ETON MA 4 - Compact 4x105 @4ohms €269.00


AXTON A401:4x100 @4ohms €130.00

Exactly what I was looking for. I might go for the Hertz speakers.

I'm glad to see that the Alpine sub i've chosen is good (because spoiler alert: my old sub is slowly getting worse).
But may I ask why I shouldn't go for the MRV-M250?

I'm a bit of a noob on subs, but wouldn't it be better if an amp redirected all its power to the sub instead of every speaker?
I'd also like to see some tweeter suggestions, as I stumbled upon the Hertz DT 24 tweeters and think that they'd be sufficent for my needs.

EDIT: Totally missed the midbass + tweeter combo thing here, isn't it better to have the speaker (which is the midbass i assume) + a seperate tweeter?
 
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I believe the next most important information we need is now much you are willing to spend. We can recommend a $500 system or a $5000 system. How just the audio equipment, you can get a decent sounding system around $500. Again, that does not include the wires, connectors, labor, etc...
I'm looking to dish out around 700 euro or so on this. Worst case scenario we go up to 1k.
 
Exactly what I was looking for. I might go for the Hertz speakers.

I'm glad to see that the Alpine sub i've chosen is good (because spoiler alert: my old sub is slowly getting worse).
But may I ask why I shouldn't go for the MRV-M250?

I'm a bit of a noob on subs, but wouldn't it be better if an amp redirected all its power to the sub instead of every speaker?
I'd also like to see some tweeter suggestions, as I stumbled upon the Hertz DT 24 tweeters and think that they'd be sufficent for my needs.

EDIT: Totally missed the midbass + tweeter combo thing here, isn't it better to have the speaker (which is the midbass i assume) + a seperate tweeter?
I agree, it is better to use components versus coaxial speakers, in the front, specifically.

Component sets up front, coaxial in the rear.

Whats inmportant is that they are from the same make/model lineup. The tweeters should be the same type in the coaxial drivers as they are in the components.

Your ear is drawn to the higher frequencies and will notice differences in timbre (sound characteristics of the driver) much more than the mid to lower frequncies and as such, you want the tweeters to be the same so your ears are not drawn backwards towards the rear speakers as that diminishes the front stage, spatial, and height imaging.

These are an excellent option.

Up front: Access 165 AS 2-way components - €171.00

amazon.de/-/en/Access-2-Way-Speakers-16-5-Separees/dp/B00IFAC8O8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=21ODNNRWFG82K&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3CBHGYfKd9p7Smkzwyxj-s3EhZhC-wo41lT_-FkOiIqeK_8oi7L1iqTn1Tl7YFA112tIfgyvWCBHqveqzgSnyjaatl9IH5kv3uI3Ro3mMUf-1wheKw8oKYnfrxxo4WukgyL0SKFjkw0gHaVCuCOAWL1dbo3Zqb-lW2uETGE706jV7cm8-yrsREbWeo61aEXjOxUeTeF4J8JEHs-9AwMLbvJHPCPI1wLzN7-fwvvvupc.sWiATwEGyTLF3oErb3AmLzJDihXMMYeOIIyz16M6YdQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=focal+car+speakers&qid=1771092011&sprefix=focal+car+speaker%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-13

For the rear location: Focal Access Speakers 165AC 165 AC Coaxial €149.00


Or these if you prefer the sound of a soft dome tweeter:

Front: Infinity Reference 6530CX €180.00
(These Infinity reference series speakers are very good)


Rear: Infinity Reference 6532EX - €89.00


As for the MRV250, it's a bit underpowered for the sub.

That 2-ohm sub is rated to 250 watts RMS, which is the same as that amp.

When selecting an amplifier for subwoofer use, you really want an amp that is RMS +50%, so around 375-400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms.

This provides wattage allowances for reactive resistance (rise) and dynamic headroom.

Those thermal ratings are for constant input at a fixed frequency, usually, 40-1k, and music is not constant; it has peaks (loud) and valleys (quiet) passages, especially the lower bass frequencies sent to the subwoofer.

If you happen to be near or at RMS and a louder-ish passage hits, the amp is out of juice and may clip or go into protect to avoid being damaged from turning it up or asking it to play louder than it's able to.

More subs, on average, are damaged by being underpowered when people try to play them a bit louder than the amp can handle.

That sub can handle a burst of 3-400 watts for .5-2 seconds, which in music playback is as long as or longer than any bass thumps you'll encounter.

For the bass duty, something like these would be great, just turn the gains down a bit, 500x1 @2ohms - €165.00

 
I agree, it is better to use components versus coaxial speakers, in the front, specifically.

Component sets up front, coaxial in the rear.

Whats inmportant is that they are from the same make/model lineup. The tweeters should be the same type in the coaxial drivers as they are in the components.

Your ear is drawn to the higher frequencies and will notice differences in timbre (sound characteristics of the driver) much more than the mid to lower frequncies and as such, you want the tweeters to be the same so your ears are not drawn backwards towards the rear speakers as that diminishes the front stage, spatial, and height imaging.

These are an excellent option.

Up front: Access 165 AS 2-way components - €171.00

amazon.de/-/en/Access-2-Way-Speakers-16-5-Separees/dp/B00IFAC8O8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=21ODNNRWFG82K&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3CBHGYfKd9p7Smkzwyxj-s3EhZhC-wo41lT_-FkOiIqeK_8oi7L1iqTn1Tl7YFA112tIfgyvWCBHqveqzgSnyjaatl9IH5kv3uI3Ro3mMUf-1wheKw8oKYnfrxxo4WukgyL0SKFjkw0gHaVCuCOAWL1dbo3Zqb-lW2uETGE706jV7cm8-yrsREbWeo61aEXjOxUeTeF4J8JEHs-9AwMLbvJHPCPI1wLzN7-fwvvvupc.sWiATwEGyTLF3oErb3AmLzJDihXMMYeOIIyz16M6YdQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=focal+car+speakers&qid=1771092011&sprefix=focal+car+speaker%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-13

For the rear location: Focal Access Speakers 165AC 165 AC Coaxial €149.00


Or these if you prefer the sound of a soft dome tweeter:

Front: Infinity Reference 6530CX €180.00
(These Infinity reference series speakers are very good)


Rear: Infinity Reference 6532EX - €89.00


As for the MRV250, it's a bit underpowered for the sub.

That 2-ohm sub is rated to 250 watts RMS, which is the same as that amp.

When selecting an amplifier for subwoofer use, you really want an amp that is RMS +50%, so around 375-400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms.

This provides wattage allowances for reactive resistance (rise) and dynamic headroom.

Those thermal ratings are for constant input at a fixed frequency, usually, 40-1k, and music is not constant; it has peaks (loud) and valleys (quiet) passages, especially the lower bass frequencies sent to the subwoofer.

If you happen to be near or at RMS and a louder-ish passage hits, the amp is out of juice and may clip or go into protect to avoid being damaged from turning it up or asking it to play louder than it's able to.

More subs, on average, are damaged by being underpowered when people try to play them a bit louder than the amp can handle.

That sub can handle a burst of 3-400 watts for .5-2 seconds, which in music playback is as long as or longer than any bass thumps you'll encounter.

For the bass duty, something like these would be great, just turn the gains down a bit, 500x1 @2ohms - €165.00

Alright, I think I'll go for the focals for the rear speakers, but there's no way these access speakers are gonna fit.

The speaker size is indeed 13 cm, and I really don't wanna go out and cut holes in my door or whatever. I'm also curious as to what that box for the focals does (i am a complete noob so i'd like to know if i need any other wiring other than the wires i already have for the amp and sub).

So far so good though. We're about 50% done. If there's an Alpine alternative to that Pioneer amp, i'd love to hear it. If not, Pioneer it is.
 
Alright, I think I'll go for the focals for the rear speakers, but there's no way these access speakers are gonna fit.

The speaker size is indeed 13 cm, and I really don't wanna go out and cut holes in my door or whatever. I'm also curious as to what that box for the focals does (i am a complete noob so i'd like to know if i need any other wiring other than the wires i already have for the amp and sub).

So far so good though. We're about 50% done. If there's an Alpine alternative to that Pioneer amp, i'd love to hear it. If not, Pioneer it is.
It's really important to get the same up front as you have in the back. You might find that all you need is a 12mm to 18mm riser made from HDPE.

Very easy to cut with a jigsaw on slow to medium speed, screw it into the door pane, screw the speaker into the HDPE.

Here is an example of just that scenario. I had 5"x7" openings and needed to fit my 6.75" midbass in the oem holes, no cutting in the door.

1771102498642.png



Use these too, between the door card and the face of the speaker, to eliminate sound bouncing around behind any panels and directs the sound into the cabin.



But if push comes to shove, there is a 13cm version.

 
Awesome, good to know there's a 13cm version of these!

So, currently the setup is turning out like this:

Front: Focal Access 130AS
Rear: Focal Access 165AS
Amp: Pioneer GM-D8701 (if there are any other amps like it, i'd go for them though, since this one is not available anywhere, even on second hand sites)
Sub: Alpine 1244BP

Price of all parts comes out to 765EUR, so it more or less fits my budget.

If there's any other thing I should know, I'm all ears.

EDIT: After browsing a bit more, ONE site sells the Pioneer. Not a lost cause, but I'd like a backup in case these people stop offering it.
 
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