TheRamSonus
CarAudio.com Recruit
Has anyone ever seen anything like that? Would it be worth it or could that make it worse due to the change in pressure leaves. What are everyone's thoughts?
Is it? Could there be other reasons?The whole point of of a blow through is to create enough space for your subs...adding more inside the cab kinda defeats the purpose![]()
I don't have an example. I was exploring ideas very late at night. I wasn't sure if anyone had ever seen something like that before.Do you have a picture or some kind of example of what you mean?
Why cut the truck if you have room for the subs already?Is it? Could there be other reasons?
Is it? Could there be other reasons?
It can be just for space. People can do something like a series 6th and have the ported rear section in the bed or something and have the cabin portion be the front chamber. That would be extreme and hard to design, but doable. I've done the same things with walls where if someone's wall isn't big enough we start going backwards into the trunk and cutting away the trunk rear deck to get more space, but you start getting difficult geometry to calculate.Why cut the truck if you have room for the subs already?
Because there isn't enough room for the subs you want to run inside of the cab. But there is room inside of the cab to run something different or to try and fill in 80hz and above. This is just brain storming for SPL types of systems.Why cut the truck if you have room for the subs already?
That's my biggest concern. I'm just exploring ideas right now. Possibly dumb ideas. hahaWith anything, if it's done correctly, it can work, whoever designs and builds it just has to know what they're doing. The physics and layout has to work.
All that essentially boils down to space for the subsIt can be just for space. People can do something like a series 6th and have the ported rear section in the bed or something and have the cabin portion be the front chamber. That would be extreme and hard to design, but doable. I've done the same things with walls where if someone's wall isn't big enough we start going backwards into the trunk and cutting away the trunk rear deck to get more space, but you start getting difficult geometry to calculate.
80hz and above would be a midbass driver.Because there isn't enough room for the subs you want to run inside of the cab. But there is room inside of the cab to run something different or to try and fill in 80hz and above. This is just brain storming for SPL types of systems.
Yes, I'm just explaining in detail. I've done walls where we're approaching north of 40 cubic feet net, not outside but total usable airspace. I'd have to go check but doing walls with 20-40 cubes net airspace isn't uncommon in full vehicle walls, especially with bandpasses, just really depends on vehicle size, obviously. So, people doing hardcore builds have to resort to these tactics, because we're insane or something idkAll that essentially boils down to space for the subs![]()
Yes it would. I'm exploring both, or at least some larger midbass drivers.80hz and above would be a midbass driver.
What about a walk through? Camper shell? Remove rear window port through rear window?That's my biggest concern. I'm just exploring ideas right now. Possibly dumb ideas. haha
A sub to play that high would be a bad fit in that kind of system. 10" inch pa mids crossed a bit lower on lower than rms power would be a better option because of the sensitivity...but no matter what you're not gonna really notice that gap at full tilt.Because there isn't enough room for the subs you want to run inside of the cab. But there is room inside of the cab to run something different or to try and fill in 80hz and above. This is just brain storming for SPL types of systems.
Ah! That makes sense. The aim would be to fill the space at regular listening to loud volume levels to fill that sonic space that's missing. But I see what you're saying and it makes sense!A sub to play that high would be a bad fit in that kind of system. 10" inch pa mids crossed a bit lower on lower than rms power would be a better option because of the sensitivity...but no matter what you're not gonna really notice that gap at full tilt.
As the pressure builds on your ears, the ability to hear full range of frequencies starts to fall off. That's why a lot of bass at high volume will give the "underwater" sound.
2 stereo integrity sql-15's on 3k in a sealed box was able to do that in my old saturn. And that wasn't an spl build![]()
The blow through is already installed. I'm now exploring ideas for the inside. The plan is to do something similar as Spokey9 said. His comment confirmed that the direction I'm headed is probably the right one. I'm just thinking out loud I guess.What about a walk through? Camper shell? Remove rear window port through rear window?
This is my IG, I am not designing for anyone right now, but maybe some ideas a for you:
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Ah ok, sorry I missed that part where it was already installed. I'm in the same boat, based on what you wanted, I'd also recommend pro audio. There's some really wide range playing speakers that pro audio offers that you can probably EQ however you like. What frequency range are you missing the most? I mean more have you tested specific frequencies?The blow through is already installed. I'm now exploring ideas for the inside. The plan is to do something similar as Spokey9 said. His comment confirmed that the direction I'm headed is probably the right one. I'm just thinking out loud I guess.