Box Recommendations - SQ Ported?

zoltman1991

CarAudio.com Regular
Hello! Ive been doing a lot of research and found a lot of people talking about SQ built ported enclosures.

Preface: This is the music I listen to - heavy bass, liquid basslines, 'space bass', dubstep, melodic bass. No techno, house, hardstyle, etc. Liquid stranger, of the trees, rezz, svdden death, zeds dead, subtronics to name a few.

I feel this music selection is 'musical' in its basslines. Quick shifting, dynamic, fluid bass. A lot of it I feel does hang around the higher ends. Depending on the song, some can get low. I don't think anything would really hit below 30hz.

Currently I have a single CompQ 12" pushed by a JD1000/1 in a 2.5cuft box tuned to 35hz. I don't like it. The response isn't consistent. I does not hit the high-end basslines as it should. So when I song shifts in freq, it sounds inconsistent.

I've realized I'm more of an SQ guy, which I think my music calls for. However, I still like loud. To combat this, my current plan is to add a second CompQ 12" and push it by a Fosgate T1500-bdCP in a sealed box. Yes, slightly underpowering, I know. Birth certificate shows 1822w at 1ohm.

Anyway. Right now I plan on throwing them in a 1.25cuft per sub sealed box (min rec is 0.88. So box is 1cuft after sub displacement). My goal is to get a consistent range and flat curve. I want to get low, but not too low because I don't see that, and I want to be consistent throughout wide ranges. I'm hoping the second CompQ will add the 'power and SPL', while maintaining a good SQ balance.

IF I WERE to decide to move forward with a ported enclosure, what should I be looking for? volume? Freq?
Sub specs:
-Fs: 40.5hz
-Min vented: 1.75cuft
-Max vented: 3.25cuft

I read from an NVX site that closer to min vented will be a more "SQ-like" build.

Bonus points from me:
-if someone would be able to model these in a piece of software, I would love you forever. I have tried, but I frankly am super new to the software and I'm not quite getting the answers I want even when modelling after the specific driver. When I change box (ports, # of drivers), I get no change in curve. A lot of people in various support groups on Facebook recommend a 32hz. But they primarily listen to rap/hip-hop. I don't know if that would fit my desires.

I'm super new when it comes to box design and how it affects performance, but I'm smart enough to be dangerous. Thank you for your time. I know this is a loaded post.
 
Not to knock on Kicker but I find the Comp Q line to be bland. I will suggest going with an American Bass Hawk1244 or American Bass XFL1244. The dual 4 Ohms will allow you to use your JD1000/1. It is important that you get the correct box for the sub or your effort will be wasted.
man so I have have a compQ 12". In order to avoid the hassle of selling and purchasing two new subs, I decided to add a second one. DVC4, so will wire to 1ohm with a new T1500. I'm fairly set on this new setup as I have the amp and sub already ordered.

I feel I'm constantly chasing my desired balance of SQ and SPL. Some songs sound great. But there are some songs where it's decreased substantially compared to other notes. It's not consistent.

I'm hoping that two compQs in a sealed box will give me a good broad range, and the doubled cone area will give me the SPL I want.
 
I feel I'm constantly chasing my desired balance of SQ and SPL. Some songs sound great. But there are some songs where it's decreased substantially compared to other notes. It's not consistent.
In that case, I think you may benefit from a graphic equalizer. It enables you to tailor the sound on the fly. I have a 7 band round knobs Clarion that has served me well to this day. Since my main music source is Youtube Music, not all recordings are equal in the bass spectrum so instant tailoring is a must.
I'm hoping that two compQs in a sealed box will give me a good broad range, and the doubled cone area will give me the SPL I want.
I have a preference for sealed enclosures but a ported one can be tuned to play relatively flat. An advantage is that you do not need as much power to achieve high output as opposed to a sealed enclosure.
 
Ooooh Bootsy!
tumblr_mbv1g8e7zv1qedb29o1_r1_500.gif
 
In that case, I think you may benefit from a graphic equalizer. It enables you to tailor the sound on the fly. I have a 7 band round knobs Clarion that has served me well to this day. Since my main music source is Youtube Music, not all recordings are equal in the bass spectrum so instant tailoring is a must.

I have a preference for sealed enclosures but a ported one can be tuned to play relatively flat. An advantage is that you do not need as much power to achieve high output as opposed to a sealed enclosure.
So for a ported box tuned to play relatively flat, as you put it, what specs should I be looking at?
Volume close to the low-end of manufacturer specs? What about tuning frequency and port design? When I do try a ported with my two compqs, I'm very likely going to invest the money and have a reputable shop build a custom
 
32 hz is generally great daily tuning for strong lows without losing too much higher frequency extension. All subjective, though. I listen to dubstep and a lot of electronic music too. There's so much to explain here with regarding box design. I can't design but I can give some advice.

1. I really like winisd for most simple box designing

2. What vehicle, I may have missed it? Vehicle and box orientation can play drastic role in response.

3. What actual frequency range or bandwidth do you want from your subs? Have you tried playing individual frequencies with a tone generator (can get on phone app) to determine where your sound is loud and isn't? For bass, a lot of people would look at 30-80 hz or so, from my experience. Just a baseline to start on haha
 
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32 hz is generally great daily tuning for strong lows without losing too much higher frequency extension. All subjective, though. I listen to dubstep and a lot of electronic music too. There's so much to explain here with regarding box design. I can't design but I can give some advice.

1. I really like winisd for most simple box designing

2. What vehicle, I may have missed it? Vehicle and box orientation can play drastic role in response.

3. What actual frequency range or bandwidth do you want from your subs? Have you tried playing individual frequencies with a tone generator (can get on phone app) to determine where your sound is loud and isn't? For bass, a lot of people would look at 30-80 hz or so, from my experience. Just a baseline to start on haha
Right now It's in a 2020 lexus ES350. Currently sub up/port rear.
I used to have sub rear/port up, but I recently switched it. It was certainly louder in this orientation. I can't recall if I was experiencing the same issue as I am now. Definitely going to swap positioning over the weekend and figure it out. I really just want a wide range - 30-80 would be great.

Let me ask you this, of the EDM - bass/dubstep/etc, do you feel there are strong high end ranges? Like those in the 40-70?

Now of course if we have mid-tempo (rezz, deathpact, smoakland), they can get pretty low. Liquid stranger's extraterrestrial definitely hits the 31 mark at lowest (measured from an SPL meter.)
 
Right now It's in a 2020 lexus ES350. Currently sub up/port rear.
I used to have sub rear/port up, but I recently switched it. It was certainly louder in this orientation. I can't recall if I was experiencing the same issue as I am now. Definitely going to swap positioning over the weekend and figure it out. I really just want a wide range - 30-80 would be great.

Let me ask you this, of the EDM - bass/dubstep/etc, do you feel there are strong high end ranges? Like those in the 40-70?

Now of course if we have mid-tempo (rezz, deathpact, smoakland), they can get pretty low. Liquid stranger's extraterrestrial definitely hits the 31 mark at lowest (measured from an SPL meter.)
Just to say this, if you're really at 2.5 at 35 Hz you should be able to hit 70. It really shouldn't fall off too terribly hard unless there's something else going on. Port area does play into this, as well. I've designed for a lot of different kickers and actually built and installed a decent bit for kickers over time. I found they work in a lot of different box sizes, but 2.5 cubes shouldn't fall off too hard, especially if the FS of the sub is 40 Hz. It's so hard to tell without being there, though.

Do you know what your voltage drops are at different frequencies of base notes you're playing?

Is the divider between the rear seat in the trunk solid or is there any gaps for air to come through? What about the rear deck? There are instances when cars literally don't have enough airflow in between the trunk and cabin, and there are some cars that have sound cancellation built into the structure of the car where it makes the bass in the trunk cancel out. It's a can of worms when you really get into designing. It's just hard for me to tell from here, it's a list, a process you have to go through to make it the best.

I would try to fire everything backwards if you could, but it depends on how much space is in between the outside of the box walls and the inner trunk walls, you have to make sure there's enough area around the box for the air to move into the cabin out of the port and subs. Just some things for you to think about.
 
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Just to say this, if you're really at 2.5 at 35 Hz you should be able to hit 70. It really shouldn't fall off too terribly hard unless there's something else going on. Port area does play into this, as well. I've designed for a lot of different kickers and actually built in installed a decent bit for kickers over time. I found a work in a lot of different box sizes, but 2.5 cubes shouldn't fall off too hard, especially if the FS of the sub is 40 Hz. It's so hard to tell without being there, though.

Do you know what your voltage drops are at different frequencies of base notes you're playing?

Is the divider between the rear seat in the trunk solid or is there any gaps for air to come through? What about the rear deck? There are instances when car is literally don't have enough airflow in between the trunk and cabin, and there are some cars that have sound cancellation built into the structure of the car where it makes the base in the trunk cancel out. It's a can of worms when you really get into designing. It's just hard for me to tell from here, it's a list, a process you have to go through to make it the best.

I would try to fire everything backwards if you could, but it depends on how much space is in between the outside of the box walls and the inner trunk walls, you have to make sure there's enough area around the box for the air to move into the cabin out of the port and subs. Just some things for you to think about.
Ok so answers to your questions, then I'd like to tell you my theory.

1: Haven't checked voltages yet. I noticed I do have a slight voltage drop. 13.5 when on and idle. Lights dim upon bass notes. I have AGM in hood. Ordered OFC 0awg for big three. Hoping this resolves.
2: Yes. It's a solid "x" frame + whatever the seats are made of and their backing. Rear deck is solid carpet lined plastic. Rattle is disgusting, so it's eating a lot of the air I'm sure.
3: Right now, the sub is literally an inch or two away from ceiling of trunk. Rear port has plenty of room around. If I rotate to sub out/port up, port would likely have 3-4 inches from ceiling, again with rear having plenty of space.

Ok. the fun part. my theory. Part of me is wondering if the Lexus ES350 mark levinson amp only sends the LOW frequencies to the 8" stock sub, which the LC2i is tapped from. I have two door 6x9, but these are only low-end - no vocals. My thought is maybe 8" signal is dedicated from 30-50, while 6x9 is 50+. I don't think this is likely. I really think it's another issue at hand. This would be more cumbersome to resolve as I'd have to then look into DSPs ro acquire all signals and sum them. How likely do you think this theory is correct? I feel a Lexus luxry car with the upgraded Mark Levinson sound system would have a 'full-range' low-end signal to it's stock 8".
 
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zoltman1991

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