Big 3 question?

[JohnPD]

I don't have the time on my hands to do the whole big 3 at once. Would it hurt anything to do one wire at a time, then do another at a later date etc.?

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I don't have the time on my hands to do the whole big 3 at once. Would it hurt anything to do one wire at a time, then do another at a later date etc.?

You can do one at a time. I would do the Alt first myself. Then the Body ground, and the motor ground last if I had to do one at a time. The only thing it will hurt is a lack of the charging and ground process for a much better current flow. Other than that I think you will be OK. If you are doing the Big3 for an HO Alt, I would do it all at once... For a Stock 140 amp alt ..or less, I think you will be just fine

 

[JohnPD]

You can do one at a time. I would do the Alt first myself. Then the Body ground, and the motor ground last if I had to do one at a time. The only thing it will hurt is a lack of the charging and ground process for a much better current flow. Other than that I think you will be OK. If you are doing the Big3 for an HO Alt, I would do it all at once... For a Stock 140 amp alt ..or less, I think you will be just fine

I'm not even worried about the alternator to battery positive wire. There are debates as to whether that one helps or not. No matter what size wire for that one the alternator is still only going to put out what it's rated to put out as long as it's the size wire the car manufacturer recommends. If it were a high output aftermarket alternator then I'd be inclined to change it, but it's not so a bigger wire won't send any more current or amps to the battery.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Yeah, do the "hardest first" the alternator................... it will only take literal minutes to do a ground as well.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I'm not even worried about the alternator to battery positive wire. There are debates as to whether that one helps or not. No matter what size wire for that one the alternator is still only going to put out what it's rated to put out as long as it's the size wire the car manufacturer recommends. If it were a high output aftermarket alternator then I'd be inclined to change it, but it's not so a bigger wire won't send any more current or amps to the battery.

Slow down there. Adding amplifiers is going to demand more from the electrical system including that charging wire. It's duty cycle is going to increase which will cause heat and heat causes damage and fire. It is an important cable to upgrade.

 

[JohnPD]

Yeah, do the "hardest first" the alternator................... it will only take literal minutes to do a ground as well.

Not on my car, the engine to chassis ground is hidden under an engine mount that's on top of the strut mount, can't barely get a box wrench on it, and a socket wrench is out of the question, and where it connects to the chassis, only 6 inches away is in an awkward spot too.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm not even worried about the alternator to battery positive wire. There are debates as to whether that one helps or not. No matter what size wire for that one the alternator is still only going to put out what it's rated to put out as long as it's the size wire the car manufacturer recommends. If it were a high output aftermarket alternator then I'd be inclined to change it, but it's not so a bigger wire won't send any more current or amps to the battery.

Thats the one I would do first if its that CRV you plan on doing. Thats me though. But.. Its your vehicle. do what you think is best.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Not on my car, the engine to chassis ground is hidden under an engine mount that's on top of the strut mount, can't barely get a box wrench on it, and a socket wrench is out of the question, and where it connects to the chassis, only 6 inches away is in an awkward spot too.

You can run wires/cables to any location you like in addition to the factory cables and locations.

 

[JohnPD]

Slow down there. Adding amplifiers is going to demand more from the electrical system including that charging wire. It's duty cycle is going to increase which will cause heat and heat causes damage and fire. It is an important cable to upgrade.

I understand what you're saying, but a 105 amp alternator is still only going to produce 105 amps whether you use the factory 8 gauge wire, or a bigger one going to the battery. You will never get any more power going to the battery unless you upgrade to a higher output alternator.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I understand what you're saying, but a 105 amp alternator is still only going to produce 105 amps whether you use the factory 8 gauge wire, or a bigger one going to the battery. You will never get any more power going to the battery unless you upgrade to a higher output alternator.

A larger cable, say a 0awg will not even blink at a heavier duty cycle demanded by more amplifiers. This means it will not get hot like the factory 8awg cable which means it will be much safer and last longer. As a bonus you will future proof any additions.

 

[JohnPD]

A larger cable, say a 0awg will not even blink at a heavier duty cycle demanded by more amplifiers. This means it will not get hot like the factory 8awg cable which means it will be much safer and last longer. As a bonus you will future proof any additions.

I understand, I just don't want to mess with adding a fuse and would have no idea what size fuse to add either.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I understand, I just don't want to mess with adding a fuse and would have no idea what size fuse to add either.

I don't recall ever adding a fuse from the batt + to the Alternator. My fuse or rather my Relay is from the battery + back to the amplifiers.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I understand, I just don't want to mess with adding a fuse and would have no idea what size fuse to add either.

I didn't fuse my alt to bat wire...it's such a short run you shouldn't ever have an issue with a proper sized wire...

 

[HardofWhoring]

I understand what you're saying, but a 105 amp alternator is still only going to produce 105 amps whether you use the factory 8 gauge wire, or a bigger one going to the battery. You will never get any more power going to the battery unless you upgrade to a higher output alternator.

What's the vehicle?

Not on my car, the engine to chassis ground is hidden under an engine mount that's on top of the strut mount, can't barely get a box wrench on it, and a socket wrench is out of the question, and where it connects to the chassis, only 6 inches away is in an awkward spot too.

You don't need to ground it in the same place. No reason you can't find your own place and leave that one there until you can easily remove it.

I understand, I just don't want to mess with adding a fuse and would have no idea what size fuse to add either.

Just like all fused circuits, the fuse needs to be more than the expected power to run through it, and less than what the wire is capable of handling. You are intentionally creating a weak point, so that if anything goes wrong, that it breaks the circuit in a place where it is controlled. Where it can be protected from causing further damage, and where it can be easily fixed.


I know on my pickup the factory alt to batt pos wire is a "fusible link". You don't see it, but the cable is sized correctly so that it acts as a fuse, and will split inside the casing. The casing will not open or split to keep it from connecting in the engine bay and creating a circuit where it shouldn't.

 

[HardofWhoring]

You can upgrade them individually, no problem. I would do the grounds first though. Even if you don't change the alt, you are still helping out the rest of your electrical system.