Another “which sub” thread

[West1 10+ year member]

I currently have a FI Xv3 12 in a 2.25cu ft custom box (designed by @Buck). I’m lacking a little power and I’m stuck between the following 3 sub choices.

stock alt, HU, battery and wiring (no big3).
I don’t want to use the full trunk space, hence the single 12”. Amp is a FLS2600@1ohm and I don’t plan to go more than 1,500 rms watts.

goal- achieve as much power w/out upgrading electrical in a 2021 Tahoe.

FIxv3 has done well for me with my mix music (e-40 & Spanish music). I’ve had classic SA’s and the FI, both played well w/SA being a little punchy.

if underpowering is not an issue, which sub would you go with?

tyvm!!

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[Firewalker]

I have a pair of Xv3's with a SIA 3.5K for now. When I had mine built I had them built with the dual spider. I think their ratings are understated because I am throwing everything I can at those two and it is asking for more power so going to a Cab-45 or something equivalent this summer. I would also do the big 3 which you should have with that FSD 2600. It probably isn't getting enough power if you didn't do that and do it in OFC or welding wire 1/0.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

Yeah, haven’t touched the stock ground and I’m probably throwing about 1k rms to the sub. It sounds close to bottoming out when I play certain rap songs. Because of that, I prefer to just get a louder sub. I’m sure I’ll cave and upgrade big 3 (or big 4 with positive Alt).

 

[Firewalker]

Mine sure are not close to that and I've had it cranked up pretty good and used bass mechanik and all sorts of stuff like that. Nowhere close to that or clipping.

 

[mastershake575]

goal- achieve as much power w/out upgrading electrical in a 2021 Tahoe.

I know this probaly isn't the answer you want to hear but reality is unless your drastically increasing the box sizes/cone area then it's a waste to be honest. The difference between most 1-2k RMS subs (especially in a daily setup based box) won't be much.

You have to upgrade your alternator. Most stock alts aren't rated for more than maybe 40 or 50 amps more then what the car needs to run (that doesn't translate to much power, especially after factoring in the effiecney rating of both the amp and alt). Were talking maybe 500-600 watts total for all speakers/subs

You'll often hear people say "oh yeah i'm running 1k or 1500 watts just on subs alone on stock alt with no issues" and there speaking BS. Moment they get a new alt on same wattage there like "holy **** this is what it was suppose to sound like ?"

I’m sure I’ll cave and upgrade big 3 (or big 4 with positive Alt).

If your keeping battery and alt stock then big 3 is a waste. Your not going to pull more power than what the stock alt (and stock OEM wires) can create so having a larger current opening isn't going to matter. Don't fall for the "bro science"

 

[West1 10+ year member]

I know this probaly isn't the answer you want to hear but reality is unless your drastically increasing the box sizes/cone area then it's a waste to be honest. The difference between most 1-2k RMS subs (especially in a daily setup based box) won't be much.

You have to upgrade your alternator. Most stock alts aren't rated for more than maybe 40 or 50 amps more then what the car needs to run (that doesn't translate to much power, especially after factoring in the effiecney rating of both the amp and alt). Were talking maybe 500-600 watts total for all speakers/subs

You'll often hear people say "oh yeah i'm running 1k or 1500 watts just on subs alone on stock alt with no issues" and there speaking BS. Moment they get a new alt on same wattage there like "holy **** this is what it was suppose to sound like ?"

If your keeping battery and alt stock then big 3 is a waste. Your not going to pull more power than what the stock alt (and stock OEM wires) can create so having a larger current opening isn't going to matter. Don't fall for the "bro science"

Interesting perspective. Thanks for the honesty!
Maybe I’ll try a new box and see if I’m happy with it.

a buddy has a DD1 but I’m not sure how to set the dd1 if amp overpowers sub. Do I calculate goal wattage into voltage then put DD1 on?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Interesting perspective. Thanks for the honesty!
Maybe I’ll try a new box and see if I’m happy with it.

a buddy has a DD1 but I’m not sure how to set the dd1 if amp overpowers sub. Do I calculate goal wattage into voltage then put DD1 on?

You might want to think about running 2- 10's. Unless you get more cone area then you are just wasting your time IMO.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

You might want to think about running 2- 10's. Unless you get more cone area then you are just wasting your time IMO.

I’ve considered running 2 10’s but just don’t want to spend that much in sounds anymore.
The 2 SA15’s in my RIP truck cost a lot to have it sound right.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

I forgot to mention, I blew the dust cap off the Xv3 a few weeks ago. E6000 working good! No burnt coils or issues with sound, still hits the way it was prior to dust cap ripping off. So, I must be giving it some good power without actual readings.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I forgot to mention, I blew the dust cap off the Xv3 a few weeks ago. E6000 working good! No burnt coils or issues with sound, still hits the way it was prior to dust cap ripping off. So, I must be giving it some good power without actual readings.

Just silicone the dust cover back on. Give it 48 hrs to set

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Without more cone area it's not making a change IMO. Try to find a 15 that does good in a smallish box.