JC_RS
CarAudio.com Newbie
Hello everyone, I will preface this by saying that my mobile audio experience consists of several months of online research as I aspire to install my first mobile audio system.
I own a 2020 Jeep Gladiator, and so far, I’ve purchased the following:
XS Power D4800 (3,000 amps)
High Output JS Alternator (390amps)
Big 3 Upgrade Kit (100% OFC)
Stinger HEIGH10 Head Unit
PRV Audio DSP 2.8X (2 inputs & 8 outputs)
American Soundbar which will house the following PRV Audio Speakers
Two Metra Tweeter Adapters for the dash and will each house PRV Audio TW450Ti-Nd-4 3.3” Super Tweeter rated at 60 Watts RMS.
BRP Auto Designs Subwoofer Box which will house two JL Audio 10W0v3-4 10" Subwoofers each rated at 4-ohms - 300 Watts RMS.
Amplifiers (all are Full Range 1 channel)
1 pair to run from Head Unit to DSP
1 pair from Sub Amp to DSP
1 pair from Mids Amp to DSP
1 pair from Tweeter Amp to DSP
Jim’s Machine Works Terminals
Knukoncept Power & Speaker Wire (100% OFC)
Remote Wire from Sonic Electronics
2 x Stinger ANL In-line Fuses
2 x 300amp ANL Fuses
——————————————————
What I know I’m missing:
Fused Power Distribution Blocks
ANL Fuses and Links for those Distribution Blocks (POS and NEG)
ABS Plastic Sheet to build Amp Rack
And other small things like Braided loom, Heat Shrinks, Wire Ferrules, Zip Ties, etc.
——————————————————
My plan for installment:
Run two 0 Gauge Power wires from the battery (1 for 6k amp and 1 for 3.5k/1.2k) to the rear (in-line fuses on both wires)
Use Power Distribution Blocks to fuse and distribute the power wires to support all three amps and the DSP.
Use a Ground Distribution Blocks to ensure everything is grounded.
Run 1 set of RCAs from my Head Unit‘s Front Out to my DSP’s Input.
Run a set of RCAs from each amplifier to the DSP outputs.
Run the Remote Turn on wires from each amplifier to my DSP, and then from my DSP to my head unit.
I wanted to break it down as follows, and this is where I think I messed up…
6k amp for the Subwoofers
3.5k amp for the Mid Range (4) and Mid Bass (2)
1.2k amp for Tweeters (6)
I’m almost certain I messed up and purchased amplifiers with too much power. If so, what do you guys recommend? I wanted to match brands for my Speakers and amplifiers… which ***** because PRV Audio’s smallest amplifier is that 1.2k.
What do you guys recommend? Is there any way that I can wire those speakers (series or parallel) to those amplifiers and get superb sound quality without blowing anything out? Should I change the 6k for a 3.5k or 1.2k amp to run the subwoofers? Are there any other flaws in my “installment plan”? Is wiring a single pair of RCAs from the Front Out to the Inputs of the DSP effective (My DSP NLT has 2 inputs)? Or should I do Y splitters and if so, how?
Please help…
I own a 2020 Jeep Gladiator, and so far, I’ve purchased the following:
XS Power D4800 (3,000 amps)
High Output JS Alternator (390amps)
Big 3 Upgrade Kit (100% OFC)
Stinger HEIGH10 Head Unit
PRV Audio DSP 2.8X (2 inputs & 8 outputs)
American Soundbar which will house the following PRV Audio Speakers
- 4x TW450Ti-Nd-4 3.3” Super Tweeters each rated at 60 Watts RMS
- 4 x 8MR500-NDY-4 v2 8” Neodymium Midrange speakers each rated at 250 Watts RMS
Two Metra Tweeter Adapters for the dash and will each house PRV Audio TW450Ti-Nd-4 3.3” Super Tweeter rated at 60 Watts RMS.
BRP Auto Designs Subwoofer Box which will house two JL Audio 10W0v3-4 10" Subwoofers each rated at 4-ohms - 300 Watts RMS.
Amplifiers (all are Full Range 1 channel)
- 1 x PRV Audio SQ6000X 1ohm
- 1 x PRV Audio Q1200 1ohm
- 1 x PRV Audio SQ3500X 1ohm
1 pair to run from Head Unit to DSP
1 pair from Sub Amp to DSP
1 pair from Mids Amp to DSP
1 pair from Tweeter Amp to DSP
Jim’s Machine Works Terminals
Knukoncept Power & Speaker Wire (100% OFC)
Remote Wire from Sonic Electronics
2 x Stinger ANL In-line Fuses
2 x 300amp ANL Fuses
——————————————————
What I know I’m missing:
Fused Power Distribution Blocks
ANL Fuses and Links for those Distribution Blocks (POS and NEG)
ABS Plastic Sheet to build Amp Rack
And other small things like Braided loom, Heat Shrinks, Wire Ferrules, Zip Ties, etc.
——————————————————
My plan for installment:
Run two 0 Gauge Power wires from the battery (1 for 6k amp and 1 for 3.5k/1.2k) to the rear (in-line fuses on both wires)
Use Power Distribution Blocks to fuse and distribute the power wires to support all three amps and the DSP.
Use a Ground Distribution Blocks to ensure everything is grounded.
Run 1 set of RCAs from my Head Unit‘s Front Out to my DSP’s Input.
Run a set of RCAs from each amplifier to the DSP outputs.
Run the Remote Turn on wires from each amplifier to my DSP, and then from my DSP to my head unit.
I wanted to break it down as follows, and this is where I think I messed up…
6k amp for the Subwoofers
3.5k amp for the Mid Range (4) and Mid Bass (2)
1.2k amp for Tweeters (6)
I’m almost certain I messed up and purchased amplifiers with too much power. If so, what do you guys recommend? I wanted to match brands for my Speakers and amplifiers… which ***** because PRV Audio’s smallest amplifier is that 1.2k.
What do you guys recommend? Is there any way that I can wire those speakers (series or parallel) to those amplifiers and get superb sound quality without blowing anything out? Should I change the 6k for a 3.5k or 1.2k amp to run the subwoofers? Are there any other flaws in my “installment plan”? Is wiring a single pair of RCAs from the Front Out to the Inputs of the DSP effective (My DSP NLT has 2 inputs)? Or should I do Y splitters and if so, how?
Please help…