I think I messed up… please help.

[JC_RS]

Hello everyone, I will preface this by saying that my mobile audio experience consists of several months of online research as I aspire to install my first mobile audio system.

I own a 2020 Jeep Gladiator, and so far, I’ve purchased the following:

XS Power D4800 (3,000 amps)
High Output JS Alternator (390amps)
Big 3 Upgrade Kit (100% OFC)
Stinger HEIGH10 Head Unit
PRV Audio DSP 2.8X (2 inputs & 8 outputs)

American Soundbar which will house the following PRV Audio Speakers

• 4x TW450Ti-Nd-4 3.3” Super Tweeters each rated at 60 Watts RMS
• 4 x 8MR500-NDY-4 v2 8” Neodymium Midrange speakers each rated at 250 Watts RMS

Two Metra Speaker Pods for the dash and each will house a PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY 6” Neodymium Mid-bass speaker rated at 125 Watts RMS.

Two Metra Tweeter Adapters for the dash and will each house PRV Audio TW450Ti-Nd-4 3.3” Super Tweeter rated at 60 Watts RMS.

BRP Auto Designs Subwoofer Box which will house two JL Audio 10W0v3-4 10" Subwoofers each rated at 4-ohms - 300 Watts RMS.

Amplifiers (all are Full Range 1 channel)

• 1 x PRV Audio SQ6000X 1ohm
• 1 x PRV Audio Q1200 1ohm
• 1 x PRV Audio SQ3500X 1ohm

PRV Audio RCA Cables
1 pair to run from Head Unit to DSP
1 pair from Sub Amp to DSP
1 pair from Mids Amp to DSP
1 pair from Tweeter Amp to DSP

Jim’s Machine Works Terminals
Knukoncept Power & Speaker Wire (100% OFC)
Remote Wire from Sonic Electronics
2 x Stinger ANL In-line Fuses
2 x 300amp ANL Fuses

——————————————————
What I know I’m missing:
Fused Power Distribution Blocks
ANL Fuses and Links for those Distribution Blocks (POS and NEG)
ABS Plastic Sheet to build Amp Rack
And other small things like Braided loom, Heat Shrinks, Wire Ferrules, Zip Ties, etc.
——————————————————
My plan for installment:
Run two 0 Gauge Power wires from the battery (1 for 6k amp and 1 for 3.5k/1.2k) to the rear (in-line fuses on both wires)
Use Power Distribution Blocks to fuse and distribute the power wires to support all three amps and the DSP.
Use a Ground Distribution Blocks to ensure everything is grounded.
Run 1 set of RCAs from my Head Unit‘s Front Out to my DSP’s Input.
Run a set of RCAs from each amplifier to the DSP outputs.
Run the Remote Turn on wires from each amplifier to my DSP, and then from my DSP to my head unit.

I wanted to break it down as follows, and this is where I think I messed up…

6k amp for the Subwoofers
3.5k amp for the Mid Range (4) and Mid Bass (2)
1.2k amp for Tweeters (6)

I’m almost certain I messed up and purchased amplifiers with too much power. If so, what do you guys recommend? I wanted to match brands for my Speakers and amplifiers… which ***** because PRV Audio’s smallest amplifier is that 1.2k.

What do you guys recommend? Is there any way that I can wire those speakers (series or parallel) to those amplifiers and get superb sound quality without blowing anything out? Should I change the 6k for a 3.5k or 1.2k amp to run the subwoofers? Are there any other flaws in my “installment plan”? Is wiring a single pair of RCAs from the Front Out to the Inputs of the DSP effective (My DSP NLT has 2 inputs)? Or should I do Y splitters and if so, how?

Please help…

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[SlugButter]

You have way too much midrange and tweeter for those subs. You can always adjust them with the DSP to blend with the subs and sound good, but I’m running active on the same exact DSP, and I’m literally running 12 watts to my tweeters after adjusting everything to blend with an 800 watt RMS subwoofer. You need much larger subs if you want bass to keep up with that front stage. For the subs you only need 600-700 watts RMS.

 

[JC_RS]

@SlugButter
So the 6k amp is too much for those two subs?

Is the 3.5 for the Mids and the 1.2 for the tweeters good?

 

[SlugButter]

@SlugButter
So the 6k amp is too much for those two subs?

Is the 3.5 for the Mids and the 1.2 for the tweeters good?

I will look up the amps, but a 6k amp for 600 watt subs is way more than you’d need.

 

[SlugButter]

That amp is way too much for those subs. You have way too much midrange and tweeter for your subs to keep up with also. I’m running a decent amount of bass in my ride and I have 2 midbass speakers getting around 90 watts per speaker (200 watt rms speakers) and 2 tweeters (40 RMS per speaker) that are running on around 12 watts. Those tweeters up front are only a couple of feet away. 40 watts rms running to tweeters is ear piercing playing music. You’re building a front stage that needs a ton of subwoofer to keep up that you don’t have. You’d need a couple thousand watts worth of subs to keep up with that front stage. I’d scale your build back just a bit and go with a little smaller build your first time out and then add to it as you go.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

XS Power D4800 (3,000 amps)
High Output JS Alternator (390amps)

You will never in a million years see anywhere near those published current numbers out of those. On the bright side a 3500W amp will blow those W0s so fast that you probably won't even get a chance to drop your voltage more than a couple tenths.

Let's back up and start with telling us what your goals are here, what are your priorities, how much money you plan to spend, and your comfort and competence level with DIY.

 

[RobGMN 5,000+ posts]

Keep in mind that a 6,000 watt amp is not an on/off deal. You control the power and (hopefully) will know that you are reaching the limit of your speakers before you toast them.

Unless you power up your system at full volume and then back it down, you honestly can never have too much amplifier. You can have UNNECESSARY amplifier, but never too much.

 

[dragon.breath 10+ year member]

Are you ever planning on sitting inside the Jeep with the stereo on , or is this just for open air use (like for parties at the beach). If you are planning on sitting in it, you have way to much mid and tweeter.