Bass 30k at .25?

[Breaker]

Anyone burp a bass 30k at .25?
Got two 370s and a 160 yinglong.
156.2 rising to 4.2 clamping right around 7500. I can easily dump another 15k for burps at my peak but that rise is Killin me
160 no wall is the goal. Should be easy once the roof is fixed and the space around the box is sealed off and I get some real power to um.

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[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Go sixth order.

 

[Breaker]

Don't have to room if I do I'll do an ABC alignment

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

160

Should be easy

Chose one.

Seriously though. Those are not cheap amps and that's cutting it really close. I'd say you may or may not keep it out of protect if you roll up to your max volume and you're definitely likely to blow that amp up trying stuff like this.

 

[Boominburban]

My experience has been that running at anything under .5 ohm on the Bass Series is hit or miss. Some amps seem to do ok, others go straight to protect.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Don't have to room if I do I'll do an ABC alignment

That guy is a bit of a clown. He saw someone doing 160 with 6 18s on 50,000W in some meme-pass wall build so he thinks that the box will just automatically make anything do 160. I've seen pictures of what's doing 160 no-wall and it's straight fartbox in CRX or minivan. IF you have a burban or similar you might could brute force it with cone area and power and wind up with something you can play music with. IMO if you can play music as it sits you should be pretty happy with your current number.

 

[Breaker]

Chose one.

Seriously though. Those are not cheap amps and that's cutting it really close. I'd say you may or may not keep it out of protect if you roll up to your max volume and you're definitely likely to blow that amp up trying stuff like this.

Yea I'm tempted but honestly a few tweeks like a loading panel and reinforcing the roof I'll be doing 157s no doubt. I did 156s with my one 370 dropping to 13 and my stock alt and 370 was noticably louder on music. I'll probably recone to dual 2s and it should be pretty close to 160 and daily. It's abit peaky. Plays strong from 38 to 50 and falls off at 32 and 60 but it's a typical ported box with some big ass 8layer coils and some softer spiders. It's pretty nasty as is but it definitely can take more power and I knew going in they needed aton of power being it's daily tuned and big ass 4" coils.

 

[Breaker]

My experience has been that running at anything under .5 ohm on the Bass Series is hit or miss. Some amps seem to do ok, others go straight to protect.

Ran a bass 8k at .25. it did like most other amps at .25. keep it in it's wheel house and don't clip it it was ok outside of that red light special. Lol

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

a loading panel and reinforcing the roof I'll be doing 157s no doubt.

Be aware that sort of thing may put you in "extreme" classes if you care to compete. Gaining half a deeb for doing 1" MDF on the roof isn't going to be great when you're in the lanes next to the dude with cement filled doors and Brinks truck windows.

Also, not sure where 3000+A of current is coming out of in all this if you plan to get that amp down to 1 ohm reactive and see close to rated power out of it.

 

[Breaker]

Be aware that sort of thing may put you in "extreme" classes if you care to compete. Gaining half a deeb for doing 1" MDF on the roof isn't going to be great when you're in the lanes next to the dude with cement filled doors and Brinks truck windows.

Also, not sure where 3000+A of current is coming out of in all this if you plan to get that amp down to 1 ohm reactive and see close to rated power out of it.

The loading panel is typically two inches above the face of the box. Just enough to allow the woofers room for movement. It brings the impedance down by loading the woofers

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The loading panel is typically two inches above the face of the box. Just enough to allow the woofers room for movement. It brings the impedance down by loading the woofers

It's the roof stuff that'll get you bumped up into "extreme" classes along with most modifications ahead of the B pillar.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

What is your vehicle body like? What mods? If you’re trying to do 160 no wall, you gotta keep the pressure inside of the vehicle without completely warping the sheet metal. Walls add major support to the vehicle body from flexing. If I was you, I would see what you could do to add a ton of weight to all doors and hatch and to the roof and quarter panels.

If you have just a regular metal body or even just deadener, that’s not enough. You’re just gonna leak SPL out everywhere.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

A wall will be much easier to do a 160 IMO. Like you need to make your vehicle strong like a wall would, even if it’s not oriented like a wall, IMO.

 

[Breaker]

It's the roof stuff that'll get you bumped up into "extreme" classes along with most modifications ahead of the B pillar.

I have nothing on the roof. I'm limited to deadner which might hurt my score but seeing as the entire roofs broken I think it might help a-tad just from the nasty resonance I'm getting and flexing.

I'm reconing the drivers to dual 1.4s so I expect to do 158s at the least. I think I'll be ok with that tuned to 36.

 

[Breaker]

A wall will be much easier to do a 160 IMO. Like you need to make your vehicle strong like a wall would, even if it’s not oriented like a wall, IMO.

Yea 160 with this power in a wall is a must or you gotta throw it away. My last setup clipped 7500 with two 9915s and did 158s