Sundown SA-12 rev.3 DVC 4 ohm

[alvogel122]

Back again. Looking at the sundown sa-12 as the title states. When paired with a soundqubed s1-1250 putting out 860 rms watts wired down to 2 ohms do you think this will be a good match? Any feedback is appreciated. Cheers.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

With impedance rise as the sub coil travels through the motor, you'll be at waaaaaaaaaaaaay less power than you think you are, its usually triple your nominal wired impedance. Meaning wired to 2 ohms you'll see more around 4 to 6 ohm power. Wire down to 1 ohm and you'll be right around rated power for the sub. Keeps the signal clean while getting you the output you need. Vs not being happy with the output and clipping the setup or running the amp at 110%

 

[alvogel122]

wired to 2 ohms you'll see more around 4 to 6 ohm power. Get the 1 ohm version and you'll be right around rated power for the sub. Keeps the signal clean while getting you the output you need. Vs not being happy with the output and clipping the setup or running the amp at 110%

Super dumb question it seems, but why exactly would it be running on 4 or 6 ohms when it's wired to 2? I've heard the term impedance rise but not entirely sure what causes it or how it plays into the system.

 

[BCotrell 10+ year member]

In respects to impedance rise I’ll borrow one from espn’s dan Patrick - “You can't stop him, you can only hope to contain him.”

 

[BCotrell 10+ year member]

Why wouldn’t you run a d2 sub to get the ideal one ohm load again?

 

[alvogel122]

Why wouldn’t you run a d2 sub to get the ideal one ohm load again?

Well if I were to wire it down to 1 ohm with the DVC 2 ohm SA-12, having all of my cars electrical being stock, would I have to upgrade the electrical system in any way? I've been wary to do that because I'm kind of over dicking around with the wiring and not looking to spend more money on better wire as of this moment. Right now I have 4 gauge wire running to my amp and ground. If I was to run it down to a 1 ohm load would I have to get 0 gauge?

 

[BCotrell 10+ year member]

Well if I were to wire it down to 1 ohm with the DVC 2 ohm SA-12, having all of my cars electrical being stock, would I have to upgrade the electrical system in any way? I've been wary to do that because I'm kind of over dicking around with the wiring and not looking to spend more money on better wire as of this moment. Right now I have 4 gauge wire running to my amp and ground. If I was to run it down to a 1 ohm load would I have to get 0 gauge?

Sooooo....you want to do it but you don’t want to do it right. Buy some welding wire and just swap it. Also if you haven’t done your big 3 yet this convo is a wash.

 

[alvogel122]

Sooooo....you want to do it but you don’t want to do it right. Buy some welding wire and just swap it. Also if you haven’t done your big 3 yet this convo is a wash.

I guess you could say that. So I get that the big 3 is a must. Point taken. However, do you believe replacing the 4 gauge is just as important or could the 4 gauge work?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Ill take a stab at explaining........Impedance rise happens when the coil moves and generates varying levels of resistance in the circuit as it plays different frequencies. A speaker's impedance is neither constant or linear. Instead it is shaped like a curve across the frequency spectrum. An enclosure plays an important role in the impedance curve in relation to the maximas and minimas.

 

[BCotrell 10+ year member]

I guess you could say that. So I get that the big 3 is a must. Point taken. However, do you believe replacing the 4 gauge is just as important or could the 4 gauge work?

You already have a 1250, I guess my nwuestion is why would you wire to 2/3 of your amps potential Output. Honestly after box rise, electrical etc your realized wattage will probably be under 1k anyways so as long as it’s not total junk 4 gauge you’ll probably be fine

 

[alvogel122]

You already have a 1250, I guess my nwuestion is why would you wire to 2/3 of your amps potential Output. Honestly after box rise, electrical etc your realized wattage will probably be under 1k anyways so as long as it’s not total junk 4 gauge you’ll probably be fine

I was under the impression that the impedance rise was only affecting the current between the amp and the subwoofer... and that the nominal impedance (what the system is wired down to) stayed constant between the battery and the amp. Is that a wrong assumption? I honestly don't know. So what you're saying is that if I wire the system down to 1 ohm so the amplifier, on paper, is drawing the respective amperes of a 1 ohm load, it will only draw the respective amperes of a 1 ohm load + impedance rise? Meaning that it will draw less than a nominal 1 ohm load from the battery? Side note: the wire I have is good wire, OFC, none of that CCA shit.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Super dumb question it seems, but why exactly would it be running on 4 or 6 ohms when it's wired to 2? I've heard the term impedance rise but not entirely sure what causes it or how it plays into the system.

Anytime a coil travels through the motor the impedance changes. Its physics, you will never see the ohm load you are wired to, usually double to triple your impedance depending on the frequency. Do a few clamp tests and you'll see. Literally at 2 ohms youll have like 150 to 300 actual watts going to that sub on music.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I was under the impression that the impedance rise was only affecting the current between the amp and the subwoofer... and that the nominal impedance (what the system is wired down to) stayed constant between the battery and the amp. Is that a wrong assumption? I honestly don't know. So what you're saying is that if I wire the system down to 1 ohm so the amplifier, on paper, is drawing the respective amperes of a 1 ohm load, it will only draw the respective amperes of a 1 ohm load + impedance rise? Meaning that it will draw less than a nominal 1 ohm load from the battery? Side note: the wire I have is good wire, OFC, none of that CCA shit.

Yes it'll draw waaaay less current. People overestimate the amount of electrical upgrades they need due to theories but in real world, theres way too many factors they never bothered to factor in.

 

[alvogel122]

Yes it'll draw waaaay less current. People overestimate the amount of electrical upgrades they need due to theories but in real world, theres way too many factors they never bothered to factor in.

So reading from my above replies... do you think my electrical system would be able to handle the amp being wired down to 1 ohm? Is the big 3 still needed? 0 gauge? Thank you for your response.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So reading from my above replies... do you think my electrical system would be able to handle the amp being wired down to 1 ohm? Is the big 3 still needed? 0 gauge? Thank you for your response.

0 gauge and big 3 is always necessary in my opinion if you are running those kinds of subwoofers. To lower your cost for wiring, this is quality copper wiring better than ofc because its industry regulated and its flexible enough for car use. Order one size up, 2/0 will be around 1/0 car audio wire.

ROYAL EXCELENE WELDING CABLE

EXCELENE WELDING CABLE WITH A HIGH FLEXABILITY AND IS RATED FOR 600V,CAN BE USED AS LEADS FOR A WELDER OR BATTERY CABLES FOR MACHINERY. (ROHS COMPLIANCE) MADE IN USA

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