almost done with my turbo kit?

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

$1200 is not a deal

 

[dru 10+ year member]

1200 is a deal especially for the demand of sr's nowadays

 

[ironchef b 10+ year member]

what kinda turbo is it?

t3/t4??

tuning wise look into geting uberdata. its a knock off of hondata & is compatible w/ your p28.

i had a b18c powered EG but got rid of it & moved back to hawaii.

i'd rather hear music than exhaust now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

edit: hope you got gauges also.

 

[fakename 10+ year member]

t3 .42 .48

 

[dru 10+ year member]

such low ars

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

1200 is a deal especially for the demand of sr's nowadays

SR's are a dime a dozen. They are avaliable in many many cars. 1200 would be alright if came with a transmission, ECU, harness. I'll look for a phone number for this place in NC where you can get a black top DET with ecu and harness for alot less.

 

[bbka 10+ year member]

d blocks are generally worthless. i would look at a b18 sometime in the near future... b20's work great as well

Actually you have that backwards. B20's are worthless. Why you might ask? The mono sleeve design is completely different than the other b-series motors, so any hint of detonation and the sleeves will crack (N/A setups and forced induction setups). Some people get lucky and never have problems, but others including a few of my friends ended up with cracked sleeves. Tuning is everything, but in the case of the B20 it's a design flaw from the factory. Here is an article that will explain... http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

D-series motors on the other hand if tuned well can take 200whp no problem for years. My car (stock d16z6) for example has been boosted for over 2 1/2 years and put down 230whp at 12psi, so with proper tuning you will be perfectly fine. Oh and I beat my car hard! People have made over 300whp on stock d-series motors also, but I wouldn't reccomend that lol, just saying it has been done.

B-series motors (B16 or B18) can take 300whp no problem with good tuning, so if you want a lot of power that would be a good platform to start with. For a little fun I'd defintely go with a custom turbo kit on your d-series, it's cheap and when tuned well with traction is a lot of fun. My best time was a 12.6 @ 107mph in a fully loaded 95 ex coupe on slicks, so they can be fast if done right.

I'd suggest going with Crome for tuning. I am currently and have always used Uberdata, but nobody really uses or updates that anymore. Crome is much better. Your setup is looking pretty good though so far, just keep it simple.

Check out http://www.homemadeturbo.com for more info about custom turbo kits.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Oh and to the original poster or anybody else with questions ask away. I can also back up the specs on my car and everything I have said, so don't even think of calling BS, I'd rather not get into a engine/honda/turbo war on a car audio site that I just joined lol...

 

[SVTLightning01 10+ year member]

open deck motors = ftmfl. Had a 99si vortech supercharged. Ringlands are a *****.

IMO, keep the boost low, atleast buy a block guard, def get a wastegate. It will help prevent boost creep.

After the motor went, i got smart and went RWD.

 

[bbka 10+ year member]

open deck motors = ftmfl. Had a 99si vortech supercharged. Ringlands are a *****.
IMO, keep the boost low, atleast buy a block guard, def get a wastegate. It will help prevent boost creep.

After the motor went, i got smart and went RWD.

Detonation kills motors. Your ringlands cracked because the car wasn't tuned properly, it had nothing to do with the fact that it's an open deck motor. Block guards are a total waste of money, with good tuning they are not needed. Wastegates don't prevent boost creep, they actually control the boost pressure. I'm assuming he has a DSM turbo from looking at his list, so he more than likely has an internal wastegate already.

Oh and for example here is a link to a 650whp Honda that is running stock open deck sleeves (no block guard or posts) http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=2598, still think they ****? It's all in the tuning...

k4rts, with proper tuning you will be fine.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[SVTLightning01 10+ year member]

Controlling boost = preventing boost creep by venting xtra boost. How does this not prevent boost creep? I dont see your point on that.

I wont argue the fact that my car wasnt tuned properly when the #3 piston let go. The vortech kit was assumed to be safe by the manufacturer. I take the blame for it blowing. If you research on clubsi.com, it is know that ringlands are a common problem. I then had it rebuilt and put the turbo on it and had it tuned by a reputable company in NC.

Im not saying it cant be done, but if you dont have resources nearby to do the tuning on a regular basis a newb will smoke his motor. One of the weak points in honda motors is the open deck design. Having no support at the top of the cylinder is not a great design. Block guards help reduce some of this weak point, but do restrict a little coolant flow around the cylinder. Some people swear by em, others dont. I just thought id throw some options out.

I think that guy is a complete idiot not sleeving the block after putting all that money into it. 650 is impressive to say the least. We had a local guy terry (boostfed on honda-tech i believe) put down 717whp420tq on a b18

.

I agree that with proper tuning he will be fine as well. I just wanted to point out some things i have experienced in my past. I wasnt a complete newb, i just didnt have the money to have the car re-tuned at the turn of the season. I have been out of hondas for the last few years, so my opinions/views might not be completely correct.

 

[bbka 10+ year member]

Well my point is that "boost creep" is a result of a poorly placed external WG on your manifold or sometimes if you have a crappy internal wastegate (that one happened to me). Without a WG your turbo would just spin out of control (I'm pretty sure you know that though), so that's a little different than boost creep (it just sounded weird to me how you described it).

The open deck design of the honda sleeves are defintely not the weakest point, the rods and pistons will go long before the sleeves. Block guards do absolutely nothing, the sleeves will wobble at high rpms, but that's not enough to make them crack, detonation along with the high rpms will make the sleeves crack.

Ha that guy you think is a complete idiot is one of the best honda tuners around and has tuned many 500+ whp stock sleeve hondas, as well as many built SFWD hondas (some have been over 800whp). That link was just to his own personal car. The things he has done with hondas are pretty amazing. http://www.evans-tuning.com has a ton of good info. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Boostfed has done some good stuff as well and I have read about that car your talking about.

 

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

small turbos = good //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

for the street i'd take a gt28rs with a HUGE wastegate that spools by 2 grand over a bigger turbo that might hit higher peak boost at 4 grand any day.

sounds like you should have everything you need.

since you're planning on running low boost, i'd get an externally wastegated turbo, tho. Just for the sake of keeping your egt's low/flow high.

and if you DO keep that turbo (which isn't really designed for a low-boost application) i'd think about running a diverter valve instead of a BOV.

a) much stealtheir, and

b) is gonna keep you lean/ in boost between shifts.

 

[bbka 10+ year member]

Personally I hate small turbos, fast spool equals tire spin on FWD hondas with dinky tires. I like a good kick in the ass when boost hits, I have driven an SRT4 and it's nowhere near as fun or fast as my car. Hondas are all top end and have bad traction already, so more low end power isn't always a good idea. I have troubles with my 200whp honda if I'm not on my drag radials, and 300+ whp is impossible to get traction unless you have a switch to go from low to high boost.

I would use nothing less than a T3 60 trim .60/.48 on a d-series motor (what I currently have and is perfect for my d16z6). There is a noticeable difference between that and a T3 .42/.48. For a basic system though any small turbo will work (DSM T25 or 14B work well and are cheap, 100 bucks). A gt28rs would be sweet, but they are kinda expensive. No way it would spool by 2k though on a d-series motor, here's a good thread for example of a gt28rs on a d16 though... http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=2017

Oh and his T3 .42/.48 will be just fine and work prefectly well with the internal wastegate at low boost. His EGT's will be fine, an external gate wouldn't change anything enough to matter. I also have no clue what a "diverter valve" is lol, but yeah a DSM bov will be fine, it won't have anything to do with his staying in boost while shifting either (his tranny gearing, how high he revs, and where he gets full spool determines that... oh and with his setup he won't fall out of boost between shift). You don't have to route the BOV into the air either you know, if you want to be stealthy.

 

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

I don't know too much about these hondas.

I know the weakest link in most volkswagens (my bread and butter) is the transmission, so a differential is usually just around the corner regardless of whether or not you were planning on one, which ends most traction concerns.

And i said for the street. Obviously since you're into drag, you're going to have totally different tastes.

I favored linearity, and instant-on boost for pulling out of corners. A 'kick in the pants' may have ended my life //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The only cars i ever had turbo'd were too light and too boxy to ever take much over 100, so a mild cam, and smoothly progressive torque curve, are like heaven.

I guess it depends on what he wants, but an 8v d is never gonna be much of a dragger.

 

[bbka 10+ year member]

Yeah I upgraded my diff to a Limited slip Quaife, but other than that the tranny's are pretty tough. I'm not really considering if he is into drag or auto cross. I'm looking more at his motor and where the powerband and strong points of his car are. I don't know about you, but when I have auto crossed I kept the rpms as high as I could, so a smaller turbo would have done me no good. Oh and he actually has a 16v (D16y8), which is perfectly fine as a dragger, just a little more challenging.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif