Jump to content


Lukas Juozaitis

Car amp and sub setup

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I came here to ask about my setup.

I have audison lrx1.400 amplifier and ground zero gziw 12 spl subwoofer. Is my amplifier enought to get best results out of this subwoofer? And is it normal that my amp became hot after listening on high volume for longer Time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Your amp does 900rms x 1 at 1 ohm load.  Your subwoofer is dual 2 ohm so wired to 1 ohm, I presume.  So with 900watts RMS. sure, any amp will go warm with any given power over time as that is what amps do when driven over a required time.:fro:

I had a look at your amps specs as it does not indicate a thermal shut down, but with a reputable amp like Audison, I have no doubt if it does get too hot, it may go into protection until it temperature drops to normal operating levels.  There are many medium to high end amps out there that have this feature. You should not be worried about the amp getting hot unless;

  • you have poor grounding terminal either from the amp to chassis or just stock ground that has 8 gauge wire;
  • you are running thinner power / ground wiring that is causing the amp to warm up as it requires more current draw; (Dangerous!!! check your amp manual if you are)
  • check your 12v resistance with a multimeter to see you are getting a clean reading of the battery voltage from the amp to chassis;
  • Upgrade to the big 3, to improve current efficiency;
  • The subwoofer box you are using is a large port design that makes your subwoofer more efficient so it does not need that much power to operate at ear bleeding level;
  • Or, your subwoofer box is too small so you are over-driving the subwoofer to get the required bass level;

I would also suggest you take the subwoofer out and run it in a 4 ohm load to see if the problem persists, this will make the amplifier work less stressfully as its not always good to run an amplifier to its minimal load, sure you can do it but you are shortening the life of the amplifier by doing so.:uhoh:

Another way of attaining the required boom is to add another subwoofer that will see the amp with 2 ohm load, that way you get 3db more and your amp runs cooler and you have just extended the life of your subwoofer amp.  :nerd:

At normal operating level,  any amp will get warm but not hot enough for you to fry an egg on top of it!!!  If your current amp and subwoofer setup does not satisfy your bass needs to it may be time to upgrade to a larger amp and dual subwoofer setup as more cone area will provide more bass.  Don't forget to upgrade your power wires if you do take this approach.  

You should not be concerned if you have the recommended power, ground wires and it does not get that hot that you only have a few seconds to put your hand on it before it gets burnt.:graduate:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, DRBOOM said:

 

I would also suggest you take the subwoofer out and run it in a 4 ohm load to see if the problem persists, this will make the amplifier work less stressfully as its not always good to run an amplifier to its minimal load, sure you can do it but you are shortening the life of the amplifier by doing so.:uhoh:

WTF... No.  


2016 Focus ST3 - Rockford DSR1 / PPI 900.4 / Silverflute 6.5" mids / Massive CT2 tweeters /Sundown Xv2 15"/ Taramps DSP3k / Stinger Roadkill / KNU wiring / Northstar SMSAGM80 /

2010 Focus coupe 157@46hz

Pioneer 80prs /(8) FU Audio 750 12"s / (4) FSD 2600s / (1) FSD 125.4 / (1) FSD 85.4 / (4) Crescendo UN-10" mids / (4) Crescendo FT1 tweeters / Stinger Roadkill / 2/0 EB flex wire / (5) Powerware 90AH batteries / DC 270XP Alt /

https://www.youtube.com/popwarhomie

too many freq at once, burn the coil, we all know, over 40-50hz, its all coilburning material.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Popwarhomie said:

WTF... No.  

Agree you don't have to do that, but its a true fact if you run any amp in minimal load, you do stress it out more and shorten the life of the amplifier.  I suggested this as the Lukas raised concerns but I agree that I don't understand his definition of amp getting hot.  Amplifiers do that but it could also be there is not enough ventilation around the amp that is causing this issue, so that is another factor I did not touch up during my response.

It could be a simple remedy as ensuring there is enough room around the amp so it does not warm up too much under normal use.  Just trying to help a brother out but without any pics, just providing some guidance under the circumstance.

Another issue could be that the amp is faulty so that is why I suggested to run it on 4 ohm load, just as a testing phase, not permanently.  If the amp would get hot on a 4 ohm load, it could well be that the amp is faulty so Lukas can approach the shop to get a replacement.  

Lastly, I could not gather information if this amp is a class A/B or D class as the Class D amp would run more cooler given the larger power transistors / transformers so its always a concern if amps run hot under normal conditions and adequate ventilation around it.  :suave:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second that running the amp at minimum load can shorten the life of an amp. However this amp is 2 channel, so running one VC off each channel would be best. Also, there is a cooling kit you can get if you read the manual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amp gets so hot that i can't hold Hand For more than 2 seconds. I have 2g wires for power and ground. I think its just hard for amp to push that sub and im actually afraid to fry the amp since it gets hot and wiring and box are okey 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if possible, borrow an amp from a mate and run your subwoofer for a week to see how it behaves.  If that amp also gets too hot then;

  • You may be using a lighter gauge wiring for the amp;
  • suggest you upgrade to 1/0 gauge power, ground wires;
  • if you are unsure of your amps specs / requirements, read the manual to verify its ok to run 2 gauge or you will have to upgrade.

The amp only gets hot under normal conditions if the power consumption is not met,  Usually, under normal circumstances, it should get warm, but not hot so you can only put your hands on it for a few seconds.  That definitely is an indication of not enough (current)  amps is drawn by the amp and continued use will definitely shorten the life of your amp.  Also allow for adequate ventilation around the amp as well. a big trunk area should be sufficient for ventilation and you will not require additional fans to keep it cool provided it is not obstructed by shopping bag, golf bag, garbage bag stash of vintage girly magazines etc..

Its very important to run the correct gauge wires as recommended by the amp manual or if you are not sure, ring up car audio shops who sell that brand to verify correct wire gauge used.  Take care of your equipment and it will serve you in years to come.  :graduate:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/19/2019 at 4:14 PM, DRBOOM said:

Agree you don't have to do that, but its a true fact if you run any amp in minimal load, you do stress it out more and shorten the life of the amplifier.  I suggested this as the Lukas raised concerns but I agree that I don't understand his definition of amp getting hot.  Amplifiers do that but it could also be there is not enough ventilation around the amp that is causing this issue, so that is another factor I did not touch up during my response.

It could be a simple remedy as ensuring there is enough room around the amp so it does not warm up too much under normal use.  Just trying to help a brother out but without any pics, just providing some guidance under the circumstance.

Another issue could be that the amp is faulty so that is why I suggested to run it on 4 ohm load, just as a testing phase, not permanently.  If the amp would get hot on a 4 ohm load, it could well be that the amp is faulty so Lukas can approach the shop to get a replacement.  

Lastly, I could not gather information if this amp is a class A/B or D class as the Class D amp would run more cooler given the larger power transistors / transformers so its always a concern if amps run hot under normal conditions and adequate ventilation around it.  :suave:

 

any amp clipped will get hot no matter 1 or 4 ohm. Considering his subs takes a lot of power to move he'll want more output than 4 ohms can give him and definitely come close to clipping the amp even more, same amount of heat. 

 

10 hours ago, Lukas Juozaitis said:

Amp gets so hot that i can't hold Hand For more than 2 seconds. I have 2g wires for power and ground. I think its just hard for amp to push that sub and im actually afraid to fry the amp since it gets hot and wiring and box are okey 

So the most likely culprit is, you arent getting loud enough and you are pushing the amp pretty hard and your electrical might also be not up to par. 

The cheapest solution is to build an efficient high performance custom ported box so you can get the output you need without stressing the amp out. 

2nd is to upgrade electricals and plop in a bigger amp so you dont have to red line the amp all the times which means cooler setup, cleaner signal.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a 3rd solution is to get a better head unit.  Sounds weird but my buddy going from a cheapo 60 dollar JVC head unit that claimed 4 volt preouts to a 150 dollar pioneer with real 4 volt preouts had a massive difference in bass performance alone.   The old head unit at a certain point it stopped getting loud and got getting stinky coils and hot amp, hot subs.  With the new pioneer it literally feels like 5 clicks louder than the max clipped output point of the cheapo JVC and the amps and subs are room temperature.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i think 2g wire is plenty for this amp. Atleast when i looked at charts where it shows amps and lenght. I tried different head units since my old one broke and its still same situation. I think im just pushing my amp too much since my sub is rated 1000w and im with 1ohm trying to push 900( atleast it rated for such power) the problem is that if i want to upgrade amplifier its very difficult to find what to buy. I want something that can play low frequencies very well and around 1500 or 2000w at 1ohm just in case i want to upgrade and with such amp i wouldnt need to push the amp as hard. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create a free account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's free & easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×