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phantom240

I need more. It's not loud enough.

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Just saw the zapco is 640 watts.  If thats rms and you want more volume, listen to jeff.  Seems like there'a setup issue or your eardrum are giving up the ghost.  I had a 900.4 on 4x infinity reference 6.5s, couldnt really say it wasnt loud enough.   If it's not setup related, time for a revamp.  Or hearing aid.


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"If I was so worried about resistance I'd be unplugging the factory wiring harness, and checking resistance on every wire in my vehicle."

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What can I say, I like my music loud. I did quite well on my hearing exam when I had my physical for work a year ago, for what it's worth. I'm mostly having issues with certain types of sounds coming through well. Instrumental tracks and EDM seem to be pretty safe, aside from tracks that make heavy use of square wave synths (damn you, chiptunes) and the occasional sawtooth. However, tracks that have alto to tenor vocals (low female, high male) tend to distort in that vocal range prematurely. So I'm almost certain that I need to reset my EQ so as not to overdrive those frequencies, and look into components that can more efficiently reproduce that range. Soprano ranges come through just fine. So I'd imagine in the range of 400-1000hz is where my setup is lacking efficiency. 


If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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For instance, most of the higher vocals in this track come through beautifully, with authority and clarity. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNa6dshsRO0

However, lower ranges like altos and tenors like Alina Baraz tend to get flattened out and audibly clipping prematurely

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa2RIlsbOvA



So it really seems like my setup needs improvement in the midbass/midrange area.

Edited by phantom240

If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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Here is another suggestion for a 4 ch amp..   https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/amplifiers/products/w-125-4

 

Mine is the W series, Korean board. The other 4 ch amp they have is the C series, Chinese board. What's the difference besides price? Korean boards tend to take the abuse moreso than Chinese boards. This is the same for much bigger mono amps.

068.jpg

067.jpg


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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11 hours ago, kcr357 said:

The mmats?  Yeah, dont bother.  That 900.4 makes insane power.  If you can f ind a deal on a ppi bk520.4, those are powerful and sound amazing being class ab.  The ppi bk800.4 would shred too

It's not a matter of power, if I were to  grab the MMats I'd be grabbing 4 of them and bridging them all. Guarantee it'd sound better than 2 ppi 900.4's


I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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Alright, alright, amp discussions aside, are there any component recommendations under $300 that would be an improvement in the sub 2000hz range over the JBL P660C set that's in my doors?


If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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Hey mate, if you are after more volume in your ride then go audition a few components with high sensitivity so they will be more efficient and will get loud without you turning up the knob too high.  I would recommend JL Audio or Kicker even Pioneer are better contenders. It also depends on what brands your local car audio shop has.  You can go Focals but I have found the European brands tend to have a flatter sound for my liking. Hertz components are another contender so is Audison and Morel speakers.   Best to go listen to some and then you can haggle the salesperson to give you a good deal.

Later mate!

1500779127188.jpg

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31 minutes ago, DRBOOM said:

Hey mate, if you are after more volume in your ride then go audition a few components with high sensitivity so they will be more efficient and will get loud without you turning up the knob too high.  I would recommend JL Audio or Kicker even Pioneer are better contenders. It also depends on what brands your local car audio shop has.  You can go Focals but I have found the European brands tend to have a flatter sound for my liking. Hertz components are another contender so is Audison and Morel speakers.   Best to go listen to some and then you can haggle the salesperson to give you a good deal.

Later mate!

1500779127188.jpg

 

Might look into some Hertz or Morel. I don't suppose Cadence is worth looking at? JL is good, but can't justify their cost. Unfortunately there's no audio shops in my vicinity that have actually decent components on their boards and cater mostly to the low tier crowd with crap like Planet Audio, Crunch, Boss. 

For what it's worth, my current front stage has a 94dB sensitivity, which I find suspect, since most components in the 100w rms range tend to be between 89-91dB. 

Edited by phantom240

If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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43 minutes ago, phantom240 said:

Alright, alright, amp discussions aside, are there any component recommendations under $300 that would be an improvement in the sub 2000hz range over the JBL P660C set that's in my doors?

the first thing you want to do is say fk off to the components idea and get rid of the kenwood head unit.    You want to use raw drivers with no passive crossovers, all crossovers are done on the 80 prs head unit.    The signal will be split into high, mid and low which means tweeters, midbass and subwoofer.

some loud cheap tweeters,   https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2II-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM 
some decent mids https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/crescendo-un-65-6-5-pro-audio-speaker.html

You'll need to use your ppi 900.4 and your current zapco for this because those UNs love power, they just sound better and better with more power. you will either bridge the ppi or the zapco to 2 channel stereo to the crescendo UNS yes they will eat up all the power and more without issues, just raise the HPF depending on how loud you want it. Now with the remaining amp, you'll want to power the tweeter and the rear speakers.   Your midrange RCA on the head unit RCAs will be split with an rca splitter to get signal to the rear.  I'd generally recommend losing the rear speakers completely or leave them on head unit power but i understand its a big car and passengers might want something back there.

Start off with the head unit in network mode and try a 4000 hz at 12 db crossover point for both mid low pass and tweeter high pass and tune around.

 


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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5 minutes ago, phantom240 said:

 

Might look into some Hertz or Morel. I don't suppose Cadence is worth looking at? JL is good, but can't justify their cost. Unfortunately there's no audio shops in my vicinity that have actually decent components on their boards and cater mostly to the low tier crowd with crap like Planet Audio, Crunch, Boss. 

For what it's worth, my current front stage has a 94dB sensitivity, which I find suspect, since most components in the 100w rms range tend to be between 89-91dB. 

your tweeter is 94 db, not the midrange, the midrange on the p660c is more around 89 db sensitivity.   If you like the tweeters, you can follow the blueprint i listed up there, but dont buy the tweeters, just use the p660C tweeters and get rid of the passive crossover and mid and replace it with the UN6.5 and run everything active.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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Those Crescendo mids look beefy as a motherfucker. Luckily, I don't typically have rear passengers, so I'll either power them from the headunit or use one of my baby amps like the EA1412 or the KTP445-U to power the rears. Maybe move my current components to the rear and bi-amp them off that Alpine like an absolute madman, lmfao. 

First things first though: Upgrade to a proper active capable HU. Either sell the zap and put it toward a 6 channel, or run another amp entirely. Upgrade to a 240+amp alt, and upgrade my second battery to a proper unit for the application. Re-run wiring with 1/0 OFC instead of the current 1/0 CCA Knukonceptz wire. 


If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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Would it be silly to build a tiny enclosure to house a JL 6w3v3 in each door, and go active 3 way for the front stage? I have a couple laying around from a project I scrapped years ago, lmao. 

Edited by phantom240

If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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21 minutes ago, Jeffdachef said:

the first thing you want to do is say fk off to the components idea and get rid of the kenwood head unit.    You want to use raw drivers with no passive crossovers, all crossovers are done on the 80 prs head unit.    The signal will be split into high, mid and low which means tweeters, midbass and subwoofer.

some loud cheap tweeters,   https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2II-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM 
some decent mids https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/crescendo-un-65-6-5-pro-audio-speaker.html

You'll need to use your ppi 900.4 and your current zapco for this because those UNs love power, they just sound better and better with more power. you will either bridge the ppi or the zapco to 2 channel stereo to the crescendo UNS yes they will eat up all the power and more without issues, just raise the HPF depending on how loud you want it. Now with the remaining amp, you'll want to power the tweeter and the rear speakers.   Your midrange RCA on the head unit RCAs will be split with an rca splitter to get signal to the rear.  I'd generally recommend losing the rear speakers completely or leave them on head unit power but i understand its a big car and passengers might want something back there.

Start off with the head unit in network mode and try a 4000 hz at 12 db crossover point for both mid low pass and tweeter high pass and tune around.

 

Here we are a year later and I still haven't bridged my ppi to the 4 un6.5's i have. I dunno why it just sounds like they're already getting all they can take unless I raise the hpf well above 100hz and I don't like that idea


I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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4 minutes ago, phantom240 said:

Would it be silly to build a tiny enclosure to house a JL 6w3v3 in each door, and go active 3 way for the front stage? I have a couple laying around from a project I scrapped years ago, lmao. 

If you build a proper enclosure then no it wouldn't be silly, it'd be great and have a super flat response

edit: maybe not, i didn't realize that was a subwoofer

apparently its been done

 

Edited by wew lad

I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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4 minutes ago, wew lad said:

If you build a proper enclosure then no it wouldn't be silly, it'd be great and have a super flat response

lol I think that would be hilarious. I had them in a .75cuft 36hz ported rear center console enclosure in my '94 Prelude years back, powered off a Sundown 1000, so roughly 250wrms each (since they're 4 ohm woofers). Had to upgrade them to DD units because they kept blowing the dustcaps off. 

Edited by phantom240

If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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57 minutes ago, phantom240 said:

Would it be silly to build a tiny enclosure to house a JL 6w3v3 in each door, and go active 3 way for the front stage? I have a couple laying around from a project I scrapped years ago, lmao. 

if you go 3 way active, you can get a dayton DSP and have 8 channels of RCA output with full control over everything and it only costs 150 dollars + 30 dollars for a bluetooth dongle to control on your smartphone.  You can definitely use them for midbass, just make sure you tune your enclosure so it plays hard 50hz and up to 315hz or something. While the midrange can go nuts. 

 

1 hour ago, phantom240 said:

Those Crescendo mids look beefy as a motherfucker. Luckily, I don't typically have rear passengers, so I'll either power them from the headunit or use one of my baby amps like the EA1412 or the KTP445-U to power the rears. Maybe move my current components to the rear and bi-amp them off that Alpine like an absolute madman, lmfao. 

First things first though: Upgrade to a proper active capable HU. Either sell the zap and put it toward a 6 channel, or run another amp entirely. Upgrade to a 240+amp alt, and upgrade my second battery to a proper unit for the application. Re-run wiring with 1/0 OFC instead of the current 1/0 CCA Knukonceptz wire. 

I'm actually telling you to run two mids and highs amps. your zapco bridge 2 channel mode plus your ppi in 4 channel mode or your ppi bridged plus your zapco at 4 channel.  For midwoofers, you really want to amp up the power, they can definitely take it.   

 

1 hour ago, wew lad said:

Here we are a year later and I still haven't bridged my ppi to the 4 un6.5's i have. I dunno why it just sounds like they're already getting all they can take unless I raise the hpf well above 100hz and I don't like that idea

Anything that makes them sound like its all they can take is basically your ppi 900.4 running out of juice causing it to sound that way.  A high pass filter above 100hz but overall output jumps up higher will still get you the same midbass impact due to overall elevated output throughout the frequency spectrum. It just wont feel as loud and bloated since everything else is louder as well.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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Alright, went out and reset my gains and my EQ, no positive attenuation, only negative attenuation. I noticed something on a couple of song intros, I'm actually getting crackle from at least one front tweeter even when there's next to no sound being played at those frequencies. I'm wondering if there's something fucky going on with the crossover(s). That, or I'm getting some kind of odd crosstalk and need to upgrade RCAs.

 

Edited by phantom240

If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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18 hours ago, phantom240 said:

Alright, went out and reset my gains and my EQ, no positive attenuation, only negative attenuation. I noticed something on a couple of song intros, I'm actually getting crackle from at least one front tweeter even when there's next to no sound being played at those frequencies. I'm wondering if there's something fucky going on with the crossover(s). That, or I'm getting some kind of odd crosstalk and need to upgrade RCAs.

 

I've found it's usually a problem with RCA connections and speaker wiring but the next likely thing is crossovers causing weird sounds at certain frequencies


I AM The Future of personal transportation, NOW!!
Pretty sure everyone on this site hates you (@JohnKuthe) more then me and that's very hard to accomplish.

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On 2/20/2019 at 10:39 AM, wew lad said:

It's not a matter of power, if I were to  grab the MMats I'd be grabbing 4 of them and bridging them all. Guarantee it'd sound better than 2 ppi 900.4's

I was quoting ts, 90rms isnt honna do much for him


Sold to

 

Bought from

NinjaBass

FasFocus00

 

"If I was so worried about resistance I'd be unplugging the factory wiring harness, and checking resistance on every wire in my vehicle."

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6 hours ago, wew lad said:

I've found it's usually a problem with RCA connections and speaker wiring but the next likely thing is crossovers causing weird sounds at certain frequencies

Knowing how I wired things up, I'd say the order of things most likely to result in shenanigans are:
- Wiring. I half-assed it, admittedly. Didn't feel like pulling all the heavy interior out of this monster in the middle of the summer. Ran either 14 or 16 gauge to the factory amp bypass I made, and called it a day. On top of that, My RCAs are probably dangerously close to my speaker wires. Again, oopsie. First time I've had this much power for such a long run of wire. 

- Crossovers. Let's be real here, I've thrown a lot of power at these guys, and I have a loose woofer connection that occasionally causes me issues on the side that's giving me tweeter grief. Perhaps when the woofer isn't properly connected, the crossover is unable to cope with its absence. 

-RCA connections. Meh.


If your not a liberal cockbag than it's funny.

 

Refs: Lostsoul, DaGh0st, Jadeaudio, mhschiefs806, revrider1, GavinVoy, maximpakt

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