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What do most people use for speaker connections on a custom box?

 

I'm looking for a good a connection as possible. Thanks

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What do most people use for speaker connections on a custom box?

 

I'm looking for a good a connection as possible. Thanks

 

copper bolts (if you van find them), brass bolts, stainless steel bolts. drill holes In the box and run speaker wire through sealing inside with silicone. terminal plates, binding posts.

so many ways


Sold To: Goodear and ATC_DJ

Bought From: Dtrom and f1mclarenagr

 

Build about to go down in my new 2006 Honda Crv

Head Unit: pioneer deh 80prs, Front stage: Hertz HSK Components, Rear: Hertz dsk comps , Sub Stage: Tantric HD 10s, Sub Amp: AudioQue 3500.1, Highs Amp: AudioQue 120.4

Electrical Consists of a Singer 200 amp alt, a Shuriken BT 80, two Crescendo Group 31s and lots of Execution Audio 1/0 Gauge.

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Im going the drill the hole and seal it with silicone route for my box. It seems like that would be the best connection also


HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X397

Front speakers: Kicker 40CS654

Back speakers: Kicker 40CS54

Amp: American Bass VFL 4480

Sub: 2 Soundqubed HDS312

Wiring: KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC

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If you're running a lot of power bolts and nuts work well or there are binding posts you can buy that have a splined shaft. They seal in the box well and no sealant is required. I've got them on hand, also.

 

As for silicone, I don't recommend ever using it on any speaker box. Ever. Silicone doesn't adhere well to wood, as it is designed to seal non porous substrates. It also smells horrible and is hard to clean up. If you have to use some sort of sealant, siliconized painter's caulk or Polyseamseal work best. Both are non volatile and they clean up easily with water.


Owner, Audio Anarchy, LLC

2915 Youree Drive, Shreveport, LA

318-780-6149

 

https://www.facebook.com/AudioAnarchyLLC

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Yeah I've gone the drill a hole/silicon route before and the silicon ended up pulling out. It's also a PITA to move the enclosure around with big wires hanging off the end that cannot be disconnected. The best method I've found is just using stainless steel bolts + a set screw lug (like this) on the outside for easy disconnecting.


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If it's for a lower power install (

 

These are the terminals I've been using for the last couple months. They're pretty solid and most customers like the ease of use and look. 1 New Scosche Subwoofer Speaker Round Box Terminal Cup Spring Post Sub Square | eBay


Head Unit - Kenwood DDX419

Front Stage - Kicker ZX200.2 to Infinity CS60.9

Substage - Sundown SAZ1500D @ 1 Ohm to SSA XCON 15

Enough Knu 0 Gauge to go around

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i only use speaker wire directly in the box than seal around it. every install I do it works perfectly and never pulls. you can't get a better connection than direct.


Here is my feedback Thread: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356500&highlight=fasfocus00

 

"If you ain't cheatin', You ain't trying"

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Last box (and current one) I've used bolts, washers, nuts, and ring terminals. Will be using Dayton binding posts on my next box/install


2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost AWD “Turbo Fridge”

 

Shok Triton 15”

3.8 cubic feet tuned to 32

DC 1.2k

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ive always gone wire speaker terminals which i didnt go with on this newest box because of the current loss i heard you get from them. But not I have holes drilled with wire going through them and will never go this route unless i dont plan on moving the box. Bolts are gonna be the way i got for now on.

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Thanks for all the input. I went with some binding post I got from Audio Anarchy here in my town.

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I am building a box soon. How does one of those mount? Is that lower left hole screwed in? Idk first box build and hoping it goes well. Was gonna do terminals, except for apparently they aren't good for high power, and I'm running 1800WRMS

Edited by SirPudge
180 is a lot less than 1800

Call me Sir Pudgington the Loyal, Knight-Errant of Her Majesty the Queen, Boxxy

 

 

 

Car: 2007 Monte Carlo LT

Door: Stock

Rear Deck: Stock

Subwoofers: 1 Fi BL18. Box made by Boomsday

Amplifier: PPI BK1800.1D

Gonna be doing lots of upgrades in the near future

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Will the nut and bolt method work ok on a lower power system...625w RMS?

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