4 ch amp help. Hs to be small

Arc mini is a little expensive but solid performer and about the size of a carton of cigs.

american bass vfl mini ,will work for you i can give a good price for a new one if you like ,pm me

Got a kicker dx200.4 I'd sell

Check out the massive audio nano bits

Also soundstream picaso nano.

Same size\power as the arc mini's but much cheeper in price.

Need a 4 ch amp. Going in an ext cab truck, I have a sub amp under the passenger seat, so I wanna put it under the center console. I have 10" long and 7.5" wide. So it has to be tiny.
The best I can find is the Rockford pbr3004, and I will prolly go with that. It has good review but they say it gets really hot, which means it won't last as long. Please advise

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ive used this amp in a few installs.

I never had them get that hot.

and when i clamped the one on dads bike i got 61 watts of clean power at 12.3v

Pioneer GM-D9500F (gmd9500f) 800W Max Class FD 4-Channel

Clarion XC6410 (XC6410) 4-Channel Marine XC Series Power Amp

SavingLots.com - SOUNDSTREAM PN4.520D Picasso nano 520 watt 4 ch amp

Curious to hear if there are any more recommendations. I have about the same size constraints in my Honda Insight, to power a Sundown SA-8 and maybe MB Quart QSD 216s.

I like the specs of the Precision Power P900.4, but it also scares me that the amp can draw @ 75A (900W), which is the max output of my car's DC-DC Converter (no alternator). Guess I'm gonna miss out on the sale price, but I need to do my research before I buy.

american bass vfl mini ,will work for you i can give a good price for a new one if you like ,pm me

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You can't find the specs because they just came out but I have the specs for you. There is a 4 channel 120 x 4 rms at 4 ohms its about 11" London x 2" t x 5" w over 65% efficient class Ab. The mono blocks are over 90% at 4 ohms 900 ,1400,2200 watts rms the biggest is only 13 x 5 x 2

I like the specs of the Precision Power P900.4, but it also scares me that the amp can draw @ 75A (900W), which is the max output of my car's DC-DC Converter (no alternator). Guess I'm gonna miss out on the sale price, but I need to do my research before I buy.

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The PPI P900.4 is one of the most efficient amplifiers in its class, which means that for a given power output level, it's current draw is relatively low. It's about 85% efficient at maximum power powering 4ohm speaker. However, there is no way around the fact that if you need big power, you also need big current draw. The P900.4 comes with 75A fusing, but it needs this because at the highest output testup (all channels either running at 2ohms or bridged at 4ohms), it will produce over 900watts RMS with 14.4V battery. If you need this kind of power, then there is no way around the fact you need a fuse at least as big. However, if you run the channels at 4ohms, the amps total output configuration being about 600watts with ALL channels running full tilt, you would need a fuse that's half as big. Even that kind of scenario is unrealistic. If you have four speakers connected to it, assuming each can actually handle 140watts RMS, you actually never need to send so much power to them continuously.. Even if half of channels are bridged for subwoofer, I wouldn't worry honestly. If a larger box can be installed, I might have preferred to use a 10 inch ported subwoofer just to maximize the SPL for a given amount of power, but 8 ported could still produce satisfying bass on 450watts.

You can't find the specs because they just came out but I have the specs for you. There is a 4 channel 120 x 4 rms at 4 ohms its about 11" London x 2" t x 5" w over 65% efficient class Ab. The mono blocks are over 90% at 4 ohms 900 ,1400,2200 watts rms the biggest is only 13 x 5 x 2

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Man that little joker has some power!!And @%65,,PM me a price on that amp..Dont mean to jack a thread, but, man if it does rated, what an amp..I have a VII Hifonics Gemeni if interested on a 4ch OP,and an old school SStream 204 that Im about to pull out,looks like Bnew, got off the forum here not long ago/under rated