zapco amp 1100.1 keeps cuting out.

Justinluv949

Junior Member
I have a 2011 M3 convt.

2 10"s image dynamics ID MAX 1000 watt subs in a sealed box.

1 Zapco 1100.1 amp (not the new digital one)

I have everything hooked up correctly remote wire is good the ohm load is good 2ohn into the amp. I have 4 gauge power into the amp my, ground is good.

When I crank it up and go over a bump it cuts.

I have it cranked up, and I look at it and when I turn the bass up it will cut out. When I’m not driving. The green light stays on but it still cuts, the amp get hot very fast, but I did this test when it was cold.

I leaves me to believe that Its not getting enough power, and I need 1 gauge cable or a cap or both.

Anybody’s input would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 
well, 4awg is pushing the limits on 1100rms. what is the fuse rating? now that aside, i don't think it's your problem, unless you are dipping to the 10vrange on the supply at the amp. whole playing at moderate volume, wiggle your connections. power, ground, rca, sounds like you have a connection problem, and the bump symptom leads me to believe that vibration at high volume is also kicking it out, not power drain. if you find nothing there, then take voltage readings starting with the amp ground and power with it on and not playing music, then test and compare with remote power and ground, and battery voltage right at the battery terminals. next, pull your head unit out and check the connections there, especially how good of ground you are getting. a poor head unit ground will force it to ground through the antennae, rca, and chassis, which can present as a number of symptoms. also, a bad amp ground will make it ground through the rcas via the head unit, and can damage the head unit easily. if both the power and remote wires read the same at the amp, but lower than the battery, then you have a bad ground. no argument, it's bad somewhere, period. if one reads over 1/2v different at the amp, then you have a poor power connection on the lower one.

 
I can't upgrade my alt,

My head unit is the factory one.

But I am going to put in 1 gauge power cable, and ground.

I'm also thinking of a cap to help.

I will post on how it goes.

 
caps are garbage in most instances...this included

and whoever installed you stereo shouldnt be allowed to touch zapcos. in Iran they'd cut his hands off for something like this.

Get the 0awg wire, they'll help. Next get a battery for back next to the amp. Something like a yellow top, kinetik hc1400, or equivalant will work fine. I recommend anything by XS power. You should be fine with your stock alty, stock battery, and an added back battery and wire like I mentioned. I doubt you'll need an alternator upgrade, though it would help. Make sure your speaker wire to the subs is up to par, 8 to 10awg should be fine.

as always go back and make sure all wire connections are solid. You'd be suprised how easily your amp will cut off at high volume because a power or ground is loose.

good luck man, your have a sweet car and a very sweet equipment setup.

 
LOL,

I agree with you and I have already cut my hands off.

I'm not able to put another battery in the vehicle as it’s a convertible hardtop. And I don’t think I want too.

Do you think if I rewired the system, and did 5 feet of power cable, and 3 ft of ground. The battery is in the trunk. I'm thinking I’m going to try another ground connection, as well.

Should I still go with the 1/0 gauge wire or 2gauge or is the 4Gauge wire going to work.

Right now I have the power and ground a little long. at the 10ft mark. I did not want to start drilling thought any panels that’s why I left it long.

 
You definitely don't need a capacitor first of all. Second, it really sounds like a connection issue and/or short somewhere in your wiring. I would check all of the connection points: power, ground, RCA, remote & speaker leads. After that I would visually inspect ALL the wiring from beginning to end for cuts, nicks, ect. My bet is it's a short somewhere...

 
well, if your battery is already in the back, that simplifies things allot. you could possibly get away with 2awg, but 1awg, 1/0 would be better. don't run the connections through the factory points, go directly to the battery with equal runs for both power and ground. pick up a good battery, as suggested. also, would like to throw in there that i am using an x2power, and it seems to do better than an optima. as for needing a cap, a good battery is like having well over 100caps in one. don't forget to fuse the power wire as close to the battery as possible, especially being in the trunk. rule of thumb is- no more then 12-18" from the battery, but make sure the cable is not going to rub anything anywhere between the battery and fuse and short the cable to ground. i've even mounted fuse holders right on top of the battery, or a pannel right next to it, but whatever looks good to you. i'm assuming that you are worried about warrenty with putting a bigger alt. in there? you could always buy a spare off ebay, or something, and have it re-wrapped and made to look stock

 
I have great news, I went threw all connections and shortened the power cable and found a new ground spot, I looked like my remote wire might have been loose. I fixed that and put it all bact together. The amp runs cooler and cranks and does not cut out. Thanks for everybody's help

It makes having audio equipment feel good again,

I'm so happy it all works. Thanks again 

 
just to clarify- you have upgraded to larger wiring, right? if not, don't crank it more than moderate volume until you do. 8awg is only good for about 50a in a short run.

 
if you're using 4awg and it's running cool even while playing full tilt, you should be just fine....Sounds like you have real 4awg, and not cheap *** over insulated 6awg badged as 4awg. A cool running amp with ample use is a very good sign.

enjoy the zapco.....one of my future dream setups would be a pair of those 2kw zapcos on a TRF 15.....or 4 ppi art a1200.2's...but 5kw+ of class a/b amps isnt exactly easy to support......

 
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