Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts
Team Lethal Pressure
That's a 3 ohm sub, and at 3 ohms, that amp is rated at 500w RMS. Yes you are definitely missing out, IF YOUR GAIN WAS set to target voltage at 500 you are missing a good amount. Even if it was set at 600w you are still missing the equivalent of about 2 or 3 more on your volume knob.
It's just.... there are about a million better ways to do it. I have JL stuff. I like JL stuff, but you are definitely paying a premium for the name.
It's just.... there are about a million better ways to do it. I have JL stuff. I like JL stuff, but you are definitely paying a premium for the name.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Thanks for replying. Do you have any amp recommendations?
- Thread Starter
- #5
That's what I'm afraid of.
If you don't have a multimeter you can get one for $6 at harbor freight that will do what you need, or where ever you can get the most basic one is fine.
Turn every eq or boost setting to flat. Then check your AC voltage like this.
Then you can at least see how many watts you are sending to that speaker without changing anything. Not sure how it was set, but I would expect any JL amp is going to be pretty close to rated power. If you're only sending 500w, then you are missing a lot. If you are sending 600w, then you are missing about 2-3 more on the volume knob (which is noticeable).
I just flat out wouldn't spend money how you say on that amp, just to be barely capable of just this sub. You can dial any amp down. If there is ANY CHANCE AT ALL, that you want to add more subs, or different subs, this is the time to buy that bigger amp instead of that one. Two of those $1K subs would be at 1.5ohm, and anything that is rated at 1 ohm can push at 1.5 ohms. Three of those subs is 1 ohm, and finding an amp that can do 2250w-even up to 3,000 (for 3) @ 1ohm is not hard to find, and leaves you some room for down the road.
I like JL amps, it's good stuff, but what do you need super clean power for on a sub? That amp is rated .03% THD at rated power. That's great and all, but you're not going to hear the difference between .03 and .5% THD when the bass is hitting. That THD rating, is what you are paying about twice as much for as an amp with a little more that will do the exact same thing, or will even be big enough for two of those.
I always recommend this link to see if someone can find a deal:
www.woofersetc.com
IMO, the next step is you figuring out what is your end goal. How much would you like to really get out of it when you're done. It sux buying 5 amps that are just slightly bigger than the last. When you could have just bought a big one in the first place, and only needed to adjust the gain. Do you want more bass if you could? There's a little left in what you have, but if you want a lot, then don't waste your money on baby steps.
Turn every eq or boost setting to flat. Then check your AC voltage like this.
Then you can at least see how many watts you are sending to that speaker without changing anything. Not sure how it was set, but I would expect any JL amp is going to be pretty close to rated power. If you're only sending 500w, then you are missing a lot. If you are sending 600w, then you are missing about 2-3 more on the volume knob (which is noticeable).
I just flat out wouldn't spend money how you say on that amp, just to be barely capable of just this sub. You can dial any amp down. If there is ANY CHANCE AT ALL, that you want to add more subs, or different subs, this is the time to buy that bigger amp instead of that one. Two of those $1K subs would be at 1.5ohm, and anything that is rated at 1 ohm can push at 1.5 ohms. Three of those subs is 1 ohm, and finding an amp that can do 2250w-even up to 3,000 (for 3) @ 1ohm is not hard to find, and leaves you some room for down the road.
I like JL amps, it's good stuff, but what do you need super clean power for on a sub? That amp is rated .03% THD at rated power. That's great and all, but you're not going to hear the difference between .03 and .5% THD when the bass is hitting. That THD rating, is what you are paying about twice as much for as an amp with a little more that will do the exact same thing, or will even be big enough for two of those.
I always recommend this link to see if someone can find a deal:
Sale
WoofersEtc.com - The Online Car Audio Superstore, the Largest Selection at the Lowest Prices!
www.woofersetc.com
IMO, the next step is you figuring out what is your end goal. How much would you like to really get out of it when you're done. It sux buying 5 amps that are just slightly bigger than the last. When you could have just bought a big one in the first place, and only needed to adjust the gain. Do you want more bass if you could? There's a little left in what you have, but if you want a lot, then don't waste your money on baby steps.
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I would not buy JL amps unless I was a lot richer.
I bought an Incriminator Audio amp recently that does 4x the power for less money. IX3.1 is the model number.
Perhaps there's an argument for better sound quality but we are talking about bass. That IX amp (and tons of other options) puts out big power with less that 1% THD.
That JL stuff is extremely expensive for the power they put out.
I bought an Incriminator Audio amp recently that does 4x the power for less money. IX3.1 is the model number.
Perhaps there's an argument for better sound quality but we are talking about bass. That IX amp (and tons of other options) puts out big power with less that 1% THD.
That JL stuff is extremely expensive for the power they put out.
Quality costs money. JL is great stuff but not for the walmart shopper.
That 400w-500w, unregulated and dependent on available voltage at the amp, obviously isn't enough for your intentions.
I don't think it would be significant. I will assume that the sub is in a proper box, vehicle is sound deadened, and that the amp is powered/installed correctly. But, at least the regulated JL hd750 will make stated power for various impedance loads and voltages.
You can pick up monoblock class-d sub amps for $300 for testing. Then, you can decide if you want to splurge on the JL.
That 400w-500w, unregulated and dependent on available voltage at the amp, obviously isn't enough for your intentions.
I don't think it would be significant. I will assume that the sub is in a proper box, vehicle is sound deadened, and that the amp is powered/installed correctly. But, at least the regulated JL hd750 will make stated power for various impedance loads and voltages.
You can pick up monoblock class-d sub amps for $300 for testing. Then, you can decide if you want to splurge on the JL.
Honestly outside of flea market gear...you couldn't hear the difference on same power between 2 monoblocks with all other things being equal...when you start talking amplifiers for mids and high then there is a case to made for higher end gear sounding better with those higher frequencies...but that's mainly because of the better quality of internals...
Hear? What someone hears depends on their ears.
You can here a difference when numerous cheap amps self destruct with the volume turned up, and a quality amp keeps on running. Once you've dealt with warranty issues, or lack of support, you'd be willing to pay more. Alibaba amps, with some silly name slapped on them, are still Alibaba amps, and best for budget minded crowd.
You can here a difference when numerous cheap amps self destruct with the volume turned up, and a quality amp keeps on running. Once you've dealt with warranty issues, or lack of support, you'd be willing to pay more. Alibaba amps, with some silly name slapped on them, are still Alibaba amps, and best for budget minded crowd.
Go grab Richard Clark's money buddy
If you are not into big roof flexing bass, I would opt for the HD750/1. I have the 10w7 with the HD750/1 and it sounds awesome. That amp is more than capable for that sub so tbere is no need to upgrade later. If it is something you will keep for more than a year, I say go for it.
OP, you're just in the wrong place for this question, (and that's a good thing). You're talking about spending $2K on 750w to a 10" sub. You're half way there.
I know you don't want to hear this, but honestly, the best advice I could give, (that I don't expect you to take), is to sell the JL sub, sell your JL amp, figure out what you want, what you have room for, and even if you sold that for half of what you paid, and got $800 out of both of those, we could not only come up with something better for now, but much better than what you're about to do.
I know you don't want to hear this, but honestly, the best advice I could give, (that I don't expect you to take), is to sell the JL sub, sell your JL amp, figure out what you want, what you have room for, and even if you sold that for half of what you paid, and got $800 out of both of those, we could not only come up with something better for now, but much better than what you're about to do.
It is more like 450 @ 3 Ohms at 14.4v.
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