Work in progress.

[TunePlayer]

Hello everyone, I've joined the community due to its members and their knowledge on car audio. I've decided to tackle my very first stereo install(nothing to fancy). I've accumulated some equipment over the years; as a result, its time for me to upgrade the audio system in my 2010 civic LX(HU,Amp, and subs for now). I will installing the following:

Head unit: Pioneer DEH-X36000UI ($59 dollars brand new)

RCAs: Stinger 6000 series 17' two channel

Amp: Alpine PDX 1.1000 (1,102w rms at 14.4V according to birth certificate)

Subs: 2 12" DC Audio Level 2 (rated at 600w rms each) in prefab enclosure; I will be building my own to accommodate the subs in the near future.

0 Gauge Knukonceptz CCA from battery to the Alpine 1.1000 amp.

1/0 Welding cable for ground

I will be using the stock battery for the time being; however, I will be upgrading to a high output alternator(240 A) within the next month. The "BIG 3" will be completed this weekend using 1/0 welding cable.

Future mods include:

1 set(front only) 6.5 Alpine type R component speakers

2 channel amp to power the 6.5" component speakers

I want to "hear" your opinions on my set up. Is there anything worth changing? If so, What would that be? Also, is there a certain brand I should look into when buying a high output alternator? I appreciate all the responses in advance.

Click to read more...

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

if you only plan on running 1000w i really doubt youll need a HO alt, if you plan on upgrading down the road sure, but if you dont install everything first and see how bad your votlage drop is. im running a 1200 & 90x4 amp with stock electrical, 4 gauge wire, and no big 3 and i dont dip below 13.4

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I also don't think the HO alt will be necessary

 

[TunePlayer]

The install was a success, the 80 amp stock alternator puts out 14.6v(idling). The battery holds its charge. No dimming. I used a multimeter to adjust my amp gains(1110 watts x 1 ohm = 1100, Square root of 1100 = +_ 33.14) I used 3/4 of my head units maximum volume and played a 50 hz test track to dial the gains in.

I’ve realized that I want more bass! My current set up has allowed me to look into a 2000k mono block(I'm leaning towards sundown/crescendo/skar audio/hifonics), any recommendations?

I Want to share this deal I stumbled across with Best Buy. 4 12”x36”x067" panels of Dynamat EXTREME for $35 dollars(bargain).

Dynamat Xtreme 12" x 36" Door Dampening Sheets 4Pack 10435 - Best Buy

 

[big scott]

you could have gotten 16^ft of this for the same price.

Q-MAT Sound Deadening

the ebay listing is only 12^ft

 

[seedlings]

I've realized that I want more bass!

Might need that custom enclosure ASAP!!

CHAD

 

[fly_marlin]

The install was a success, the 80 amp stock alternator puts out 14.6v(idling). The battery holds its charge. No dimming. I used a multimeter to adjust my amp gains(1110 watts x 1 ohm = 1100, Square root of 1100 = +_ 33.14) I used 3/4 of my head units maximum volume and played a 50 hz test track to dial the gains in.
I’ve realized that I want more bass! My current set up has allowed me to look into a 2000k mono block(I'm leaning towards sundown/crescendo/skar audio/hifonics), any recommendations?

I Want to share this deal I stumbled across with Best Buy. 4 12”x36”x067" panels of Dynamat EXTREME for $35 dollars(bargain).

Dynamat Xtreme 12" x 36" Door Dampening Sheets 4Pack 10435 - Best Buy

Keep in mind, adding power to your system is the least efficient way of adding SPL. Example: as far as loudness, slapping twice as much power in your vehicle would roughly equal to just folding down the rear seats. You should really get that properly built box first.

As far as speakers, type-R is a very decent speaker and has a fairly small mounting depth - if that's an issue. However, if you state a budget, we can see if there's a better option for you. Did you deaden the doors or just the trunk?

 

[TunePlayer]

Please bear with me as I have placed my order for some sound deadening.

 

[TunePlayer]

The stock battery in my civic decided to take a **** on me.

Should I upgrade my main battery to XS D3400 Deep cycle battery + upgrade to an High Output Alternator

or

Stinger 3 post power isolator and two batteries ?

any suggestions?

voltage drops to 11v when the lows come into play; as a result, i've paused the low tracks.

 

[fly_marlin]

The stock battery in my civic decided to take a **** on me.
Should I upgrade my main battery to XS D3400 Deep cycle battery + upgrade to an High Output Alternator

or

Stinger 3 post power isolator and two batteries ?

any suggestions?

voltage drops to 11v when the lows come into play; as a result, i've paused the low tracks.

11V from a 500w amp? Weird. Did you already do the big 3? If so and problem persists, HO alt would be next.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

upgrade battery, do big 3. you aren't using any bass boost or anything of that sort are you?

 

[TunePlayer]

amp is rated at 1102w rms at 1 ohm

I do have my subs wired to 1 ohm

The alternator is a small 80 amp

I ordered 7' OFC 1/0 from knukonceptz late this week. I should be doing the big 3 this upcoming week. So you suggest the heavier battery + HO route?

 

[fly_marlin]

Do the HO alt and big 3. If it's fine after, leave the battery until it's time to replace it.

 

[TunePlayer]

No bass boost. I tuned the amp gain using my voltmeter and the total watts(1110 watts x 1 ohm = 1100, Square root of 1100 = +_ 33.14) I used 3/4 of my head units maximum volume and played a 50 hz test track.

I experienced the drop when playing this low hz track

 

[TunePlayer]

Do the HO alt and big 3. If it's fine after, leave the battery until it's time to replace it.

battery needs to be replaced asap; i'm having starting issues. Luckily, I have another vehicle I can use. I'm on verge of purchasing the XS D3400 battery; However, I don't know whether it's overkill especially after I upgrade my alternator.