WITCH AMP fOR A SET OF UTOPIA

do you know what kind of filters have the ex edition.can i make an active system without extra processor?

i mean ...i want hi pass for the two channels about 100-500hrz for the mid-tweeters and ofcourse a low pass for the mid woofers

 
ok if you have three choices....audison vrx 250,brax x1000,dls a3.
If price is NOT an issue then my opinon would be Brax. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Hmm I have a Fosgate 450s the same amp as you just different heatsink... I was planning on using it for my upcoming component set (Maybe CDT Carbon Fiber set). The amp puts out alot of power for the comps (225 RMS x 2 ch) but i'll keep the gains down. The amp has a .04% THD... Just wondering what you dont like about the amp so I could sell this amp and get a new amp while waiting for my comps.

 
the power you told about (2x225) is for 2ohms, with a normal 4 ohm set you get aboyt 2x105 rms

but this i do'nt like is;nt about power or control. the only you have to do is to listen an amplifier like audison, brax etc and after that listen your rf //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/banghead.gif.8606515f668c74f6de0281deb475b6fd.gif

is not a bad amplifier for the money. but is far away from those. the sound is too poor and hard for a speaker like utopia.this is my opinion

 
you now some times is not about numbers(watts, phd, damping factor, etc,etc...)

is about the feeling you get when listen a really quality amp. home or car. no diference.

 
Just a note: Utopias really like a lot of power....at least 150'ish watts per channel to really bring them out. You don't need an exotic thousand-dollar amp. Just find you a nice, solid clean amp that does at least 150-200 watts per channel at 4 ohm. PPI PCX 2200..(can still be purchased brand new from Zeb.com), would be perfect. JL Audio 300/2 would do very nicely also. From what I hear the Tru 2.100 (2X100 watts/channel at 4 ohm) is very underrated, but also very pricey. Whatever you do...try to drive them at 4 ohms.

 
thanks my friend...but i have another one "problen" in my installation...i have two pairs of utopia!!!!

what are you think?

according to the needed power for those,they wants 150 watts for sure.

 
Just focus most of your power to your front set. Ideally the rear speakers shouldn't be outproducing the front. This pulls your soundstage to the rear. SQ suffers, unless you like that "full surround" sound. In any case , if you want to power all 4 equally try something like a 4 channel with at least 125 watts per channel...(Precision Power PCX 4125...can be purchased for an excellent price right now from several online dealers...and brand new from Zeb.com and Ikessound.com). It is pretty underrated as well, but has a really nice regulated power supply. Nice, clean amp. If it were me....I would put a PPI PCX 2200 on the front set...(or something of equal quality and power rating), and at least 100 watts on the rear.

 
i'll never install back speakers in my car my friend.i toldo about and only for frond stage.

i have two of utopia on each door and i drive those passive,active until now with two rf

the 551s drive a pair of mid and a pair of twitters with the normal passive crossover of set

the 451s drive another one pair like midbasss from 80 hz to 250 hz

 
That's even better...no rear fill. And 2 sets of Utopia's on the front end should give you really great midbass. I hope you have subs that can keep up with those. Put at least 150-200 watts on your midbass, and at least 100-125 on your midranges. They should love it.

 
I like to set my midbass from 65hz highpass. Since you have identical Utopias for midrange duty, you might want to go somethere from around 125hz..(highpassed) up or so...(highpassed). Not too sure about that though.since I don't know what your set-up is....(what type of crossovers/slopes/etc). You'll just have to play around with them. Utopias have great midass though..you might even be able to go a slight bit lower on the midbass...maybe 55 or so. If you hear them bottoming-out or stressing, then raise the high-pass.

 
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