Wiring setup, best way?

[NickCR 10+ year member]

Hi All,

I am going to be building a new sub box, re-wiring my system and hopefully getting a little more kick out of my system.

Lets get into the system first so you guys know what i'm dealing with here.

Deck: Clarion (DXZ755MC)

SUB AMPs: Koiiler (XM-7664)

SUBs: Koiiler 10" (XM-8210 DVC)

SPEAKER AMPs: Koiiler (XM-8686 C/W)

SPEAKERs: Blaupaunt Overdrive

XOVER: Koiiler (XM-7605)

CAPACITOR: Pheonix Digital (1.5 Farrad)

My deck sends RCAs to the XOVER, which from there splits to my sub amps and my speaker amp. The power goes directly into my Capacitor from a 8 guage power wire, then splits to my amps.

Currently my XOVER does all the frequency control. I was thinking I should do two things:

1. Run an additional RCA to the back and send it from the "SUB OUTPUT" for my subs.

2. Run an additional power cord (higher guage) to the trunk and only run the capacitor on the sub amps.

I am currently having problems with my fuse blowing for no apparent reason. It just pops. The fuse powering the system is only 30A.

Anything else you guys can suggest to improve my system that would not be upgrading my equipment like subs/amps. If i'm missing something then i'd be happy to add to what I have.

Thanks in advance.

Nick

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[blue93corsica 10+ year member]

first if you have 2 preouts on your HU use them, use the sub out for sub amp and the other for the speaker amp, then run a min. of 4 awg to the back into the trunk of power wire, lose the cap, get a fused distro block, then run either 2 8awg's, 1 for each amp of 1 4awg for the sub amp and 1 8awg for the speaker amp, then do the big 3 with a min. or 4 awg power wire

 

[ice992 10+ year member]

your cap should only be running your Sub amp.. Personnally i would run a 4 ga to that and another power wire from the bat to your mids/highs amp... as far as the blowing fuses, add up the fuses on the amp, if the fuses on your mids/highs amp = 35w, then you should be running a 35w fuse @ the battery... same goes for the sub amp... also... make sure you have good grounds, when using 4ga it should always be a bolt and nut ground, not just a screw into the chassis. You want the distance from you cap to your sub amp to be as short as possible ie less than a foot of wire between the 2... Sorry about the haphazard order of my suggestions, I tend to have a million things on my mind and I spit them out in whatever order I can lol... Just my $.02... Good luck...

 

[NickCR 10+ year member]

Thanks for both of your answers.

I think both of you have posted some good answers. The first about the 2 pre-outs form the H/U. I agree and I will do that for sure.

Now I was a little confussed as to why you would want me to remove the CAP. I understand that caps are to reduce the load on the battery (in one jolt) and reduces the dimming of lights, which was my problem and the reason I installed it in the first place. I completely agree that I should have a "Distribution Block" after the CAP to the amps so that i'm not "Joining" wires. I will install 4 awg wires to my CAP, then 4 awg to the distribution block, then 4 awg to each AMP. I have 2 AMPs for my SUBs, one for each SUB. Ice what you think about that, would that be a good solution for my "subs"? I'll be sure to take your suggestions about the bolt vs screw for the "GROUND" and also the CAP 2 AMP distance will also be a good time to address. I might even upgrade to 2 awg wires to the CAP so that if I ever upgrade my system (quite possible) then I won't have issues with the wires.

Additionally with the 8 awg I already have running front to back i'll keep that installed only for the speakers and run it seperately from the CAP.

Yeah I don't think I have near enough fuse power. My fuse I have is 30A and only one of my amps has 35A fuse. If I add them up. 35+35+30 I should have at least 100A, no wonder they keep popping like pop-corn.

Again thanks in advance.

Nick

your cap should only be running your Sub amp.. Personnally i would run a 4 ga to that and another power wire from the bat to your mids/highs amp... as far as the blowing fuses, add up the fuses on the amp, if the fuses on your mids/highs amp = 35w, then you should be running a 35w fuse @ the battery... same goes for the sub amp... also... make sure you have good grounds, when using 4ga it should always be a bolt and nut ground, not just a screw into the chassis. You want the distance from you cap to your sub amp to be as short as possible ie less than a foot of wire between the 2... Sorry about the haphazard order of my suggestions, I tend to have a million things on my mind and I spit them out in whatever order I can lol... Just my $.02... Good luck...

 

[NickCR 10+ year member]

You guys have any additional comments? I'm still curious to understand about the cap?