Will I need a H.O. alternator?

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

I bought two '05 Alpine SWR-1242D subs.

I plan on wiring each to 2 ohms and then wiring to a Lanzar OPTI2000D amplifier for a final impedence of 1 ohm to give out 1692w RMS x 1 channel @ 1 ohm at 14.4v.

I was told I will need a H.O. Alternator.

I beleive my alt is 105 amps.

Should I just get an amp that does a true RMS wattage of 1000w RMS x 1 channel @ 1 ohm at 14.4 volts and if so could you refer some to me that are efficient and don't cost more then the OPTI2000D?!

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[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

your post doesn't make sense. you wants something that does less power? you can try hooking it up but you may need a new alt. my 140 amp struggled at times with my opti

 

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

Alts usually have 40% reserve...so

105a*.40=42a reserve

now...

amps=watts/volts (max draw)

1700w/14.4v=118a (max draw)

or you can use efficiency...typical class D is 60-75% efficient

(power output/ efficiency)/voltage

(2000w/70e)/14.4=97.2a (again max draw)

this means that you amp can be capable of that much, but on music it will never draw that much...If you listen to heavy bass music you may see this kind of number.

Best recomendation would be hook it up and see if you have dimming. If you have issues you will need the upgrade. Dont forget to do the "big 3"

 

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

Heh,I get very very light dimming with my POS Profile CA600M wired at 2 ohms but only when the A/C and headlights are on at the same time.

Could I get away with just purchasing a yellow top battery?

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

Heh,I get very very light dimming with my POS Profile CA600M wired at 2 ohms but only when the A/C and headlights are on at the same time.
Could I get away with just purchasing a yellow top battery?

did you do the big3? i still don't understand the obsession with buying batteries

 

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

I haven't got the amp yet but I am just trying to get everything figured out so in the long run I don't spend more money then I need to or miss any things that may need to be done.

As soon as I get the amp I will be doing the big 3 but not sure what guage wire to use (4g or 2g).

As far as a H.O. alternator goes what do you guys think of this one?

http://www.motorcityreman.com/cs130-200-so.html

 

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

bump

 

[knotslck 10+ year member]

I haven't got the amp yet but I am just trying to get everything figured out so in the long run I don't spend more money then I need to or miss any things that may need to be done.
As soon as I get the amp I will be doing the big 3 but not sure what guage wire to use (4g or 2g).

As far as a H.O. alternator goes what do you guys think of this one?

http://www.motorcityreman.com/cs130-200-so.html

i wouldn't use any thing less than 1/0 for the big 3

 

[johnecon2001 5,000+ posts]

I haven't got the amp yet but I am just trying to get everything figured out so in the long run I don't spend more money then I need to or miss any things that may need to be done.
As soon as I get the amp I will be doing the big 3 but not sure what guage wire to use (4g or 2g).

As far as a H.O. alternator goes what do you guys think of this one?

http://www.motorcityreman.com/cs130-200-so.html

Don't buy that. You'll be sorry.

Find one from Mean Green, Ohio Gen or HO alts.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Alts usually have 40% reserve...so105a*.40=42a reserve

now...

amps=watts/volts (max draw)

1700w/14.4v=118a (max draw)

or you can use efficiency...typical class D is 60-75% efficient

(power output/ efficiency)/voltage

(2000w/70e)/14.4=97.2a (again max draw)

this means that you amp can be capable of that much, but on music it will never draw that much...If you listen to heavy bass music you may see this kind of number.

Best recomendation would be hook it up and see if you have dimming. If you have issues you will need the upgrade. Dont forget to do the "big 3"

x2. Well put. You really need to do everything you can (battery, Big 3, ground wire kit) prior to going to the HO alt. I know guys pulling well over 1K on their 80 amp alts.

 

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

So I should 1/0 wires for the big 3 and what kind of batt.?Yellow top?What do you mean by ground wire kit?

 

[SQChevy 10+ year member]

I've had as much as about 1900W in the form of JL Audio 1000x1, 300x2 and 2 300x4 and I used a powermaster alternator with about 200a max power and about 115 or so idle and no capacitor. My system worked great with no trouble, the power even idle would hardly move. I also have 1/0 wiring all the way through. If you want to wait on the battery or alternator then upgrade wiring and see if things dim, then I'd say go alternator. The main reason for switching to a optima would be to allow the deep cycle and be able to recharge as opposed to killing the battery.

On the yellow top, we actually stopped using them since they have a 1 year warranty and the reds have a 3. For most systems, I think the red will work just as well. The price is about the same. I just know several people who have had to replace theirs on a fairly regular basis, ie about once a year or so.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

So I should 1/0 wires for the big 3 and what kind of batt.?Yellow top?What do you mean by ground wire kit?

Your Big 3 and ground wires should match the cable thickness used from the battery to the amps. If you use your stereo without the engine running a lot, then a deep cycle will benefit you. If not, then a good starter battery will do the trick. Red Top NOT needed, but they are nice for various reasons.

Remember a battery is technically a load on the system because the alt has to keep it charged. Once you start the car you will draw current off the battery which in turn is supplied current from the alt. YOu might need that extra current. You might not. You won't know until you try.

A ground wire kit essentially is used to stablize the current throughout the electrical system in the engine compartment. I have mine daisy chained from one side of the chassis at various points on the engine block, injectors, manifold, and then to the negative battery post.

Hope this helps. If you search you will find this discussed a lot I'd imagine.

 

[Hayabusa 10+ year member]

U shouldn't need one if you are just going to be dailey driving. If u like to burp it up alot and SPL compete you will probably need an HO then. U shouldn't be going over 1000 watts on the daily driver tip.

 

[Phreaker 10+ year member]

U shouldn't be going over 1000 watts on the daily driver tip.

So are you saying I should only give each type r 500w RMS or will I be safe feeding each one 850w RMS from the Lanzar OPTI2000D?