Will a distribution block cause power loss?

[Darren13]

I don't want to bother with this capacitor I have and have decided to use some distribution blocks. I have an LC2i I'm going to install and instead of running wires from my battery all the way to the back, I plan on using a distribution block in my power and ground wires so I can put a power into my LC2i, and ground it as well. Will adding a distribution block to my power and ground wire cause any significant power loss?

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

No.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

No. It's purpose is it "shares" the power amongst other amps.

 

[Darren13]

Ok, I also have a another question and don't want to make another thread. If I wire a subwoofer with 2 Ohm instead of 1 Ohm and 500 RMS, I would be using less power right? Because my lights slightly dim, and I used an Ohms law calculator and 2 ohms uses less amps. So maybe 2 ohms instead of 1 Ohm would eliminate the little dim?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Less power on 2 ohms is correct.

Your lights are dimming because you have a weak electrical system. I would suggest doing the big 3 on your next day off.

Betting your next question will be what's the big 3 (lol)

 

[Darren13]

I already did the Big 3, that's why I was wondering if this would even do anything, lol. The dimming is to a minimum since the Big 3 got rid of most of it, just curious if increasing impedance would help. It's not a big deal if it doesn't though, I just don't want it to get worse.

Edit: Just to be clear here, the dimming is VERY small, and only when I'm idle. But.. it would be nice for it to just go away, lol

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That's strange that the dimming is still there even after the big 3 is done.

It will prob still do it even at 2 ohms because the more volume you have turned up, the more amperage your using thus the lights will dim.

I need more info from ya on the big 3....what size wire you did.

 

[Darren13]

I did 4 Gauge OFC since I'm only using 500 RMS and my alternator puts out about 100A; To be honest, I think the problem is my battery negative to ground. I have it on a strut bolt and it was kind of hard to sand that down, and the metal above the chassis that I put the ring terminal on is not touching the chassis in a large area. Maybe like a 1inchx1inch area. (I don't know if that makes sense unless I show a pic, lmao) I plan on moving it when I get the chance but I'm lazy so we'll see.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That could very well be the problem. I would redo that before things get any worse. That 4 gauge I would use either 0 or 2....just to be on the safe side...it may not be enough for your application.

 

[Darren13]

I'll try moving that ground when I get the chance and if that doesn't work I'll consider using a smaller gauge. I had extra 4 gauge laying around too and some guy with my same car and same power did it with 4 gauge and he said his dimming went away, so I just copied what he did.]

Oh, and I was going to ground it straight to my chassis, but I didn't have a long enough socket adapter for my drill so I couldn't reach a good spot and and just settled for a strut bolt, so yeah lol.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

What vehicle is it?

 

[Darren13]

2015 Toyota Corolla S. Here's the one guy I was talking about. (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1152193-big-3-upgrade-2015-corolla-s.html) I did that but routed the wires differently so I didn't need to waste so much.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

*sigh* these newer vehicles...

Well for now try your ideas first see if that gets rid of the dimming. Then maybe later on try switching out that 4 gauge to 2 gauge when $$ allows.