Why does my MTX Thunder 600t1 have 2 channels ?

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

i thought this amplifier was a monoblock, i had it installed temporarly to power my 2 18' MA audio subs. futureshop did all my custom trunk work

i CANNOT find a link to a 600t1 online with 2 channels, did futureshop rip me off or somthing?

anyways, the thing kept blowing fuses every day after installation, i took the ride back the guy ohm metred it, and it was at 1ohm per sub, then he re-adjusted it so now its at 4ohm per sub.

the system is very quiet for how much power the amp suposedly can put out,

Is this a kind of crappy model they pawned off on me? is their any way i can wire this up to get more juice out of it?

both of my subs have 4ohm voice coils, and the amplifier is a 2 channel MTX thunder 600t1

it pounded like snot when it was blowing the fuses in the amp, but wouldnt last more than a day or so at 1ohm.

They sold it to me on clearance and now i am a little pissed that it doesnt seem to be the kind of amp to fit my setup at all.

here are some pictures.

i would love this thing to be the 1 channel 600t1 i found on futureshops webpage, it puts out alot of juice. this thing i got is a weird one. Eventually i want a 800t1 on each sub.

i hope one of you guys out there can help me, i dont know much about products so i am hoping somebody can save me if i got ripped off.

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[Jason19 10+ year member]

it is one channel they just do that for eazy wiring

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

how to wire should be in manual

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

a lot of monoblocks are like this including mine

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

how to wire should be in manual

they didnt give me a box with it, came off the wall for cheap.

like i said, i will be upgrading to either 1 of thease per sub, or 1 TC800t1 per sub.

it would be nice to figure out how to get a little more juice out of it though, could i run the subs at 2ohm? if so how would i do so ?

also could the 2 channels be bridged, run into 1 sub then that sub run into the other?

i have slight knowledge of car audio, but very limited. i appreciate the quick responses

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

Its a mono amp. The two outputs are paralleled together internally. They have two terminals for ease of wiring.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

this is the info future shop has on their site for the amp

WebID: 10101418

Mfr. Part Number: TC6001M

# Of Channels 1

1 OHM Output Power - Full Range Not Applicable

14.4V Dynamic Power At 2 Ohms 1800 Watts

2 OHM Output Power - Full Range 1800 Watts

4 OHM Output Power - Full Range 900 Watts

Bass Boost Variable

Bridgeable No

Bridged Power At 2 OHMS - Full Range 1800 Watts

Bridged Power At 4 OHMS - Full Range 900 Watts

External Bass Control Capable Yes

Fuse Rating (Amps) 60 Amps

High Pass Filter Not Applicable

Included In Box See The Features Section

Input Voltage 5 Volts

Low Pass Filter Variable

Mosfet Switching Yes

Overload Protection Yes

Product Dimensions 45.0(W) x 31.5(H) x 12.0(D) cm

Product Weight 4.9 kg

Protection Indicator Yes

RCA Inputs (#Pairs) 1

RCA Outputs (#Pairs) 1

Screw Type Terminals Yes

Signal to Noise Ratio 75dB

Smart Engage Turn-On Yes

Speaker LVL Inputs Yes

Total Max Power 1800 Watts

Tri-Mode Capable No

Warranty 1 Year Parts & Labour

so it seems like it can run at 2ohm's, could somebody tell me how to wire it up to achive this ?

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Your amp is 300w rms at 4 ohms, 600w rms at 2 ohms. It looks like you have dvc 4 ohm subs which gives you wiring options of 1 or 4. At 1 your amp will probably produce 700-800w, but should go into protection and/or blow fuses.

At 4 you're only going to get 300-400w, or ~200w each.

You should have gotten something that's 1000-2000w at 1 ohm.

What is the model number of your subs?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Your amp is 300w rms at 4 ohms, 600w rms at 2 ohms. It looks like you have dvc 4 ohm subs which gives you wiring options of 1 or 4. At 1 your amp will probably produce 700-800w, but should go into protection and/or blow fuses.At 4 you're only going to get 300-400w, or ~200w each.

You should have gotten something that's 1000-2000w at 1 ohm.

What is the model number of your subs?

yeah,it was blowing fuses, blew 2 in 4 days but pounded ok. Took it back, they re-wired it and then it sounded completely dead, like i mean no thump at all.

They wired it up at 4ohm, Witch is stupid to only feed 200w each to 18 inch subs.

i tryed a new wiring and i just went one chanel cable into one sub, and one channel cable into the other, and they are ALOT louder now.

(but is this a 2ohm setup?)( pictures included)

i was on a bit of a budget and wanted to get the subs out of my house they have been sitting ontop of the dresser in mybedroom for along time since my last car, and now with this nice car i wanted them in and did it the best i could.

Also the custom box work cost alot. Now that that is out of the way, its gravy.

the subwoofers are MA audio 18XE's from around 2002-2004 era. dont have the exact model #.

They want to upgrade me to this : MTX 1-Channel Amplifier (TC8001)

This would be, one powering each subwoofer. Also at first, it would only be one powering both subwoofers Until i could afford another one, along with another capacitor or 2 and ofcoarse more wiring.

This amp isnt stable at 1ohm either, so is it applicable?

(sorry for the newb questions)

could one of thease power both subs for the time, until i purchased the second one, And also what wattage would the 2 subwoofers be reciving ? And last but not least, With one of thease amps powering each sub, what would both subs be reciving strait from their own seperate amps.

WebID: 10074476

Mfr. Part Number: TC8001

# Of Channels 1

1 OHM Output Power - Full Range Not Applicable

14.4V Dynamic Power At 2 Ohms 2400 Watts Max

2 OHM Output Power - Full Range 2400 Watts Max

4 OHM Output Power - Full Range Not Applicable

Bass Boost Fixed

Bridgeable Yes - Mono Class D

Bridged Power At 2 OHMS - Full Range 2400 Watts Max

Bridged Power At 4 OHMS - Full Range Not Applicable

External Bass Control Capable Yes

Fuse Rating (Amps) 90A

High Pass Filter Fixed

Included In Box Amplifier, External Bass Control, Manual

Input Voltage 5V

Low Pass Filter Fixed

Mosfet Switching Yes

Overload Protection Yes

Product Dimensions 53.1 x 31.5 x 12 cm

Product Weight 5.9kg

Protection Indicator Yes

RCA Inputs (#Pairs) One

RCA Outputs (#Pairs) None

Screw Type Terminals Yes

Signal to Noise Ratio 75dB

Smart Engage Turn-On Yes

Speaker LVL Inputs Yes

Total Max Power 2400 Watts Max

Tri-Mode Capable No

Warranty 90 Days Parts/1Year Labour

Thanks guys, i appreciate this.

Origonal wiring after fuses kept blowing (future shop changed to this) ::

What i have it setup like now ::

instead of conecting it to all 4 connections on the sub, i only wired it to 2, in my newbie logic i figured that meant it would reduce it to 2ohm, i am most likely wrong and that is why i am posting here.

thanks again guys.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

That amp is a crappy match for the pair of subs. Either get a different amp or another of the same amp and wire one to each sub.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

That amp is a crappy match for the pair of subs. Either get a different amp or another of the same amp and wire one to each sub.

i think i am going to exchange it for the TC8001 when i go back in a couple weeks, then eventually move onto 1 TC8001 per sub.

How would i wire one amp to one sub? connect it to all 4 conection points on the sub from one amp? or just strait into positive/negative on one side ?

sorry again for the newbeeness of my questions.

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

Just get one big 1 ohm stable amp. MTX isn't all there is to amplifiers. Check out the new Sundown SAE-1200D or an Audioque 1200D. Both are solid and affordable, and offer excellent customer service.

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

Wait, are your subs SVC or DVC 4 ohm? 2 ohm?

 

[scoob8000 10+ year member]

Perhaps see if you can return the amp.

Did the shop know what subs you were planning to run before they sold it to you?

What's with the splice in your speaker wire?

IMHO, I'd try to return that amp, and find a new shop to deal with.

Or return/sell the amp and check out the classifieds section on the forum here. You should be able to pickup a single amp to power both subs.

Do a little reading on subwoofer wiring (search google), and hook them up yourself.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Perhaps see if you can return the amp.
Did the shop know what subs you were planning to run before they sold it to you?

What's with the splice in your speaker wire?

IMHO, I'd try to return that amp, and find a new shop to deal with.

Or return/sell the amp and check out the classifieds section on the forum here. You should be able to pickup a single amp to power both subs.

Do a little reading on subwoofer wiring (search google), and hook them up yourself.

yeah the subs where in the car, they had to custom build the box for them so they knew what i was using.

they spliced the wire because with the 4ohm setup they had it running on 1 end had to reach all the way to the other end of the sub, so they needed an extender clip i guess.

i got the subs awhile ago so i dont know the specs on them, they are 2002-2005 era MA audio XE 18's.

so best bet is to use this amp until i have the money to order in a big 1ohm amp and power both subs with them ? or get another 600t1 and wire 1 to each sub ?

id probably think the 1ohm amp would be best bet....