why do people diss push terminals here?

Holes in the box, you have to buy them, extra time and money spent on a box, and laziness are all big contributing factors. I drill holes and use 1 1/2" machine bolts (stovepipe bolts) as terminals on sealed boxes.

1. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the machine bolt.

2. Stack 2 washers over the hole on the inside of the box

3. Stick the bolt in the hole and pound it in leaving 1/4 inch to get the wire between the washers. Wrap the wire around the bolt and then pound the bolt in, secuing the wire around the bolt and in between the washers. This is very effective at holding in the wire *that goes to your subwoofer inside the box.*

4. On the remaining bolt shaft on the outside of the box, basically sandwich the input wire between two washers with a nut to cinch it down.

 
push terminals ON A SUB guys
ive never really heard of people dissing them. i think they are easier to use than the normal twist terminals. But if i had a choice of terminals, it would be direct wire connect //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Most of it is lack of patience and laziness. I know when I am building a box I usually am ready to try it out ASAP. I use the terminal cups from partsexpress and they add very very little resistance, if you have the Jasper jig ( must have for any box builder IMO) it makes those terminal cup holes perfect in about 30 seconds. They really make it easy to take the box in and out of your trunk which I have to do for work. Pure SPL folks would not use these.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-311

 
Most of it is lack of patience and laziness. I know when I am building a box I usually am ready to try it out ASAP. I use the terminal cups from partsexpress and they add very very little resistance, if you have the Jasper jig ( must have for any box builder IMO) it makes those terminal cup holes perfect in about 30 seconds. They really make it easy to take the box in and out of your trunk which I have to do for work. Pure SPL folks would not use these.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-311
he said he was talking about push terminals on a sub...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

im sure some people feel more comfortable in SPL setups with the screw in ones, less of a chance of the wire coming out

 
Direct Connection Lead Out Wires

These series woofers feature a direct wire-to-wire connection method. Benefits of this new connection type include the following:

No loss signal path by virtue of copper-to-copper connections.

Speaker terminals are not made from pure copper, most are actually steel or brass. These metals are far less conductive than copper. The effect of any connection that is lower in conductivity than the cable is that of a resistor. New class D amps favor lower impedance loads, at 1 Ohm, the terminal can account for as much as 10% of the total load. This amounts to dead weight in an audio system.

A mechanical copper-to-copper connection keeps signal loss to a minimum it is virtually impossible to measure the losses. This is better than a soldered connection. Even the best lead-free, silver alloy solders are less than 20% conductive when compared to pure copper.

Secure, vibration free connections.

The twisted wire-to-wire connection can be topped with a wire-nut or crimp-cap. The connection can be further secured with electrical tape or heat shrink. This will eliminate the possibility of vibration working loose a connection while driving or towing your ride.

Compatibility with all wire gauges

Wire-to-wire connections allow a quick and easy connection to any wire type or gauge. No more trimming down large speaker wire to get it to fit into a small spring-loaded connector.

No more broken terminals.

One slip of the speaker frame when mounting in a speaker box will snap off the terminals. This happens frequently when mounting 40+ pound subs in close quarters.

No bare wire exposed

Bare wire often extends through the hole of spring-loaded terminals. These bare wires can arc or, short out to the speaker frame or to each other. Encapsulated terminal ends, in a wire-to-wire connection eliminates this potential problem.

Make the Connection.

First, strip off about an inch (25 mm) of insulation from both conductors, then twist together with the appropriate positive or negative wire from the amp. Cap the end with a crimp-cap or wire-nut or you can also crimp male and female disconnects to wire ends for repeated disassembly.

HAVE FUN, and make sure you have adequate hearing protection and headgear if you plan to crank it up while in the car.

btw, there have been a few post with push terminals snapping and other issues with them, most likely user fault but yea....

 
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