What would you do
- Thread starter Mr FaceCaser
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Honestly, there isn't a lot of difference in 225 versus 300 in volume output. The other difference is the DS18 has a rated frequency starting at 65 hz, the DB is 100. That difference in ratings alone, 65 to 100hz could be the difference in RMS ability. That difference may well be the difference in efficiency too. Efficiency of a driver at 100 hz is going to be much better than at 65hz, especially for pro style drivers. Just something to consider in regards to output. Now if you end up going with a high powered amp, then the DB is the driver to go with. You should plan on playing them above 100hz which I would recommend for either driver anyways. Neither of them is really any good below that anyways.
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Mr FaceCaser
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So what your saying is to upgrade my box bc I won't get to much louder. And then on the amp I have right now should I have it on hpf or lpf or full and then phase should be off right?
I wood (pun intended), the box is everything in a sub. Not sure what it is made of, but if it crumbles every time you put a screw in it, time to fumigate!
As for the 6.5's, I'd say if you have an amplifier of 4 x 150, no need to upgrade. If you are looking at more like 4x300, DB is the driver to go with.
As fo setting them for maximum volume and efficiency, yes, I'd be setting the HP filters on them at 100 hz. Lots of energy to try and make them play down to anything else as they simply are not designed for it. If you are going with DSP or the amplifier you use has the ability, setting them up on a bandpass is optimal. So, 100 hz to ? whatever frequency they mate up well with and dependent on the tweeters used. This can be done with coaxilas but requires separate amplification (bandpass x-overs) for mids and tweeters in both instances or a combination of active passive crossovers to achieve this in situations where only 1 channel of amplification is in use for that corner.
As for the 6.5's, I'd say if you have an amplifier of 4 x 150, no need to upgrade. If you are looking at more like 4x300, DB is the driver to go with.
As fo setting them for maximum volume and efficiency, yes, I'd be setting the HP filters on them at 100 hz. Lots of energy to try and make them play down to anything else as they simply are not designed for it. If you are going with DSP or the amplifier you use has the ability, setting them up on a bandpass is optimal. So, 100 hz to ? whatever frequency they mate up well with and dependent on the tweeters used. This can be done with coaxilas but requires separate amplification (bandpass x-overs) for mids and tweeters in both instances or a combination of active passive crossovers to achieve this in situations where only 1 channel of amplification is in use for that corner.
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OP
Mr FaceCaser
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Should I touch the phase setting?
Phase is rarely an issue in my experience. Usually is is relative to the subwoofers. You'd likely have to measure for phase issues to apply changes for phase correction. If you can actually hear phase issues, you probably have something wired incorrectly.
OP
Mr FaceCaser
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I never new what phase was for so I had set to 180 but I'm tuning it now
Deff Id get tghe enclosure replaced if its crumbling when you set a new screw. Get the Subs properly tuned to what the subs are intended by specs and you will be better off with that sub stage performing at its best and serve its purpose.
Thats what Id spend my $/Funds on. \Getting my sub enclosure correct so that is going to stay together and not have any leaks or issues and tuned accordingly to perform
Thats what Id spend my $/Funds on. \Getting my sub enclosure correct so that is going to stay together and not have any leaks or issues and tuned accordingly to perform
Id' leave all the phase adjustments alone or at least set the same. You can have someone adjust it on the sub to see if it makes any difference, but again, not something I mess with too often unless I mic a corner and I get a reading that suggest reversing the polarity on the tweeters (all) or an entire corner is out of phase (again, that usually indicates a wiring issue, not the output).
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OP
Mr FaceCaser
CarAudio.com Regular
I use these pretty much exclusively to mount woofers anymore, They are so heavy and taking out the subs and putting them back tends to ruin the mounting options all together.
I use t-nuts on the opposite end.
I use t-nuts on the opposite end.
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GP Audio Glue And Screw enclosures are some of the best enclosures I use and have put together for several others,and affordable and easy enough to put together with screws,silicone and or LocTite bond, a drill or impact drill and patience with a little space to do it. if you can read a Childs coloring book.. you should be able to match up A to A and B to B. Excellent basic enclosures to put together, and you finish the enclosure to your liking, or clear coat it and be done with it or not/ up to you
Set your sub in the box.
Use one of these to mark the spot.
If you don't have a drill press, use one of these to insure you drill straight.
Pre-drill with a small 1/8" bit, get it done accurately then drill with the larger bit and you'll be dead on.
Use one of these to mark the spot.
If you don't have a drill press, use one of these to insure you drill straight.
Pre-drill with a small 1/8" bit, get it done accurately then drill with the larger bit and you'll be dead on.
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Those are nice to do if you are using the same subs . Ive had some swapp outs that the holes didnt line up and the subs would shift and not seal properly. I ended up making a new baffle and cutting new holes for the subs, but could still remove the baffle and use the old for the existing subs
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