what to seal doors with?

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

Your skills are required in my driveway immediately!

DFW is quite a ways from MN. I do work for beer though.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

If the sheet metal is thin enough to be easily cut with tin snips, Id worry about its rigidity.

I use very thin plywood generally (1/8" iirc). It stiffens the whole door an amazing amount.

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

Its not super rigid but once you put a layer of deadener on the front and back its not too bad. Doesnt flex anymore than the rest of my door. You can also use a hammer to knock down the tall spots and it will stay put. My door panels didnt have a lot of clearance so this is what I used.

 

[WhoSayWho? 5,000+ posts]

If the sheet metal is thin enough to be easily cut with tin snips, Id worry about its rigidity.
I use very thin plywood generally (1/8" iirc). It stiffens the whole door an amazing amount.

what do you use to attach this plywood?

 

[traksta15 10+ year member]

what do you use to attach this plywood?

x2

 

[DDSC 10+ year member]

If your talking about lenses for fluorescent lights, do not use it, that stuff gets extremely brittle. Use some sheet metal or some 1/4 board.

if he had two sheets of dynamat to put on both sides it should work fine

 

[bureau13 10+ year member]

Stupid question (I've never bothered to deaden or seal my doors but I'm probably going to when I get new comps) but can't you just use the damplifier over the hole? You're probably going over the door anyway.

jds

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

what do you use to attach this plywood?

Sheet metal screws. BTW, if you leave the heads exposed (cut the mat away from them) its alot easier to remove the panel for repairs inside the door if needed.

 

[traksta15 10+ year member]

sweet, looks like ill be using 1/8" plywood.....

Do you have any pics of your doors audioholic?

 

[gotparts90 10+ year member]

i used fiberglass, the holes were very curve so it was easier to tape it off and make some panels then screw them on. I can unscrew them and get into the door if needed

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

sweet, looks like ill be using 1/8" plywood.....
Do you have any pics of your doors audioholic?

Let me go see what's visible in the truck right now.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

People use wood, some use metal + rivets. I personally suggest going and getting those hard cardboard "For sale" signs and the like, just whatever you can get out of that material, taping it all together with packaging tape, and then put it over the door. That way, if you ever need to get in there, you can just take it off with out having to drill out the rivets.
The bass that your mid range produces shouldn't be enough to flex that cardboard. If it does... kudos.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

sweet, if I can't find one i'll probably just try out that light cover stuff, it was only like $6/sheet

bad idea. that stuff cracks easily.

If your talking about lenses for fluorescent lights, do not use it, that stuff gets extremely brittle. Use some sheet metal or some 1/4 board.

sheet metal would work, I would add deadener to it, though. IMO, a sheet of wood would work even better, but most doors aren't nice and flat.

 

[traksta15 10+ year member]

sweet, thanks man.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Here's the doors from my Dodge. One rear door still had some wood exposed to show you guys, so I chose it (even though its wrecked).

And here's the system I never got to hear:

Lastly, I snapped a quick pic of a little of the concrete job in my Blazer doors. People have asked before, so here it is.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Here I circled the areas I filled with wood.