What to do...

2 15" alpine type R's Audioque 2200d, 1/0, kenitik 2400, bigger alt.
for the last time, i aint replacing alt, dont post telling me to upgrade it, not worth the money to put on a motor that aint worth shit, and when i switch motors im stuck with it more tahn likly, or will take a huge loss on it

 
someone do me a favor? tell me what the hell the big 3 is...i realize it is something electrical...the battery i am assuming but no one i know has it, only ever heard of it on here...rather new into hardcoring stereos...and new to spl world...so some1 just clarify?
search big 3

 
more ideas? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

still dont know what to do...

I would like to have a car that hits 140+ which i know it is a pretty sad goal...but i have only been to two spl events, want to do more in 2010 season...but i want 140+ in a class that it will stand a chance, avg for basic 2 around me is like 143...that is 2 12"s and i think under 1k watts? not sure on wattage...but yeah...

 
do big 3 thats a must run 1/0 gauge get an extra batt. for the trunk and keep the same batt. under the hood if your tight on money. i would keep the amp not to sure on the p3s but maybe a better encloser could help boost it up if not then get some of the subs that were mentioned above in this thread

 
do big 3 thats a must run 1/0 gauge get an extra batt. for the trunk and keep the same batt. under the hood if your tight on money. i would keep the amp not to sure on the p3s but maybe a better encloser could help boost it up if not then get some of the subs that were mentioned above in this thread
you think i should put another battery in? why not just get a optimia, kinetics, or stinger? and i am doing big 3, and running all 0ga wire rather than current 4ga...and the box in car is all custom built....was suppose to help but it really didnt, i hit alot lower now and that is about it..

 
you think i should put another battery in? why not just get a optimia, kinetics, or stinger? and i am doing big 3, and running all 0ga wire rather than current 4ga...and the box in car is all custom built....was suppose to help but it really didnt, i hit alot lower now and that is about it..
The car probably resonates at higher frequencies. Likely, the box gives you a deeper bass which kills the mic readings. The problem with tuning towards a competition is that it leaves music sounding like shit. But if you tuned higher, you could likely hit much higher numbers.

 
The car probably resonates at higher frequencies. Likely, the box gives you a deeper bass which kills the mic readings. The problem with tuning towards a competition is that it leaves music sounding like shit. But if you tuned higher, you could likely hit much higher numbers.
yeah i hit 139.0 with a p3001 and these subs in old box...upgrade to kicker kx1200.1 and this new box and get 139.6...sounds louder but mic dont agree...im thinking smaller, possibly even sealed box might have worked better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif but now i am debating on what to put in there, been told from kicker l7's all the way up to dc or fi btl...

 
Likely the prefab box, the old one, was tuned high. They typically are. So it hits the higher notes better, and those resonate through the car better. So the increase in power was contrasted by a deeper sound that doesn't resonate as well through the car. It will sound better on music, though.

Only ways around that are cone area, power, or a new car. Or tuning really high and not caring what it sounds like on music.

There's lots of options of what to go with. ^^

 
Now your alt is about a 90 amper alt if i remember correctly something close to that. You could add a second alt... just an idea but here's what I would do at least for batteries. I would go to auto zone. Look for a marine battery. It has a blue top by Duralast. It is 97 dollars with out a core well 98 out the door. It has 1000 CCA, It also has 115 Ampers an hr and also has a reserve cap of 180 ampers. ITs a dual purpose battery as well its a starting and deep cycle. It was strong enough for me to run my 3.7 with ease. and I have 2 of those batteries on my truck with factory battery and 2 30 farad caps. I was using 2 4800 watt High current rack audiobahn amps. ( I know audiobahn) but the amps **** a LOT of power. And I had no prob with just those batteries and caps to sit right at around 12 volts at full tilt. Also look into MLA or MissingLinkAudio.com. check them out they may have a module for you and you can get more voltage from your factory alt. But check those batteries out.

 
ok will do but 1 problem =\ i got no autozone around me...just Advanced Auto, napa, carquest, and O'rileys.. you think that batt will do better tahn a dry cell tho?

 
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