What causes the "fluttering" noise in subwoofers and how do I prevent it?

Maybe I just have unrealistic expectations. That's very unfortunate, it's really not even that loud before sound quality degrades. Can't even feel it in my chest. It does sound much better than with no subwoofers, but not for the amount if money I paid
Something wasn't right. My P3 10's on a RF Prime 1200 mono amp just last night was bouncing my roof, my mirrors and I could feel it like crazy in my chest to Beastie Boys "Intergalactic"
 
Something wasn't right. My P3 10's on a RF Prime 1200 mono amp just last night was bouncing my roof, my mirrors and I could feel it like crazy in my chest to Beastie Boys "Intergalactic"
This is such a subjective question, but did it sound good to you? Like smooth bass, or do you accept that a certain amount of mechanical noise comes with subwoofers? Because mine does get kind of loud, it just doesn't sound good
 
Id build an enclosure close to specs ported for those subs and give them some breathing room. Thats me
I have heard that Brahmas perform better in a ported enclosure but I am hesitant on dropping another $400 on a custom enclosure just to find that it still falls short of my expectations.
 
Is it likely that a 250 amp alternator and big 3 wiring would help this issue?

Perhaps an alternator upgrade alone, to be safe I'd do that plus an extra battery or two.

Speaking of wiring, have you verified that you have a sound connection to power and a good ground to your amp? Can you post pics of the box as it sits in the vehicle?

There is a problem here and it is not the equipment.
 
Def voltage drop if in sealed enclosures that don't afford severe loading issue nearing subsonic, combined with headlight dimming and inducing a protection fault.

Subsonic filter could be set too low for the driver's frequency range.

Bass boost frequency can be centered too low or the bass boost amplitude level is too high (i avoid using bass boost)

Both of these can cause your amp to be overdriven if you dial in your amp gain without those adjusted prior or during. This is however, if your electrical chain is sound and you have a sufficient alternator to provide the necessary amperage. If not, that is the most likely culprit.

Upgrading to a 250a alternator is just using a band-aid on a sore tally-whacker when it is required to provide additonal power for other audio equipment, vehicle accoutriments, and it's operating systems.

Adding a second alt purely for the audio system rated for the total potential amperage draw of said system, usually determined by adding up the sum of the required fusing for all equipment, is a foolproof way to keep your voltage above the threshold of amplifier overdrive. Again, this is only applicable if your 12vdc connections are sound.

I dont want to discount any other's advice, but ive never had any of my installs come back for voltage drop unless someone has been adjusting dials i tell them not to when its necessary to guarantee my work. If they cannot afford the electrical or want to pay for it, i tell them the risks and dial everything back to avoid overdriving with what they have, excluding me from culpability to the system burning up.
 
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This is such a subjective question, but did it sound good to you? Like smooth bass, or do you accept that a certain amount of mechanical noise comes with subwoofers? Because mine does get kind of loud, it just doesn't sound good
It sounds great... I am still chasing down vibrations from the car but the bass is great. It is loud and smooth. You can hear when the subs change from sounding great to over-excursion. The sound, even on the same bass note, will change. If you had P3 12's you should have been able to make your eyes blurry from the bass with 1800w of Kicker power. I kid you not. The P3's are well built aluminum subs with good motors. They can hit some pretty low notes.
 
I have heard that Brahmas perform better in a ported enclosure but I am hesitant on dropping another $400 on a custom enclosure just to find that it still falls short of my expectations.
I think a ported enclosure towards tuning has always been closer to my expectations rather than sealed. Its been worth every penny spent. You can get a Glue and Screw tuned enclosure for less than $400 bucks from GP Audio
 
Thank you for your reply sir.
Box-angle.jpg
 
I've been retuning my system from the shop by ear, and noticed a painful fluttering sound the day after playing around with too many beers in mah belly.

2 Alpine Type R2s in a generic sealed box - once I opened the Arc Audio X2 amp and lowered the gain a hair, set the subsonic filter (people say sealed boxes don't need a subsonic filter set but that's BS) after boosting the sub signal on my sony xav ax5500 head unit by just a couple notches it was gone and they began to hit HARD and clean.
 
Make sure the fluttering sound you are hearing isn’t something flexing. When I start pushing my subs, the sunroof sliding cover flexes so much I thought I was bottoming out the subs which I know isn’t possible since I built them and did all the math to have the coils made that this would require some extreme circumstances to achieve. Once I figured it out now I pull the cover back and tilt the sunroof open to relieve the pressure and it’s clean no matter how hard I push it.
 
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