Well, I thought I had everything picked out, then I came here...

First off, yes, this is probably going to turn into a "Help me with my build" thread/flamefest. The reason being that I have a list of components that I was considering, and after perusing this site for a couple days, I don't think a lot of you are going to like it. So I signed up and came looking for help/opinions/whatever...

I'm looking to spend no more than $1200.00 or so, and this will be going in a 2010 Ford Fusion.

I'm planning on replacing the front and rear door speakers. The fronts have a woofer/tweeter combo, so I'd like to use components for that. I'm also planning on running an amp for the door speakers. I also want a single subwoofer, since I need to keep as much trunk space as possible. For the head-unit, I want bluetooth capability to use with my phone.

The type of music I listen to is very eclectic. It runs the gamut from classical to modern Top40. I'm not a big fan of rap, so I don't need metric assloads of bass. I also like things nice and clear, not muddied up.

With that in mind, this is the list of stuff I came up with on my own. Be gentle, this is only the second time I've upgraded the system in a car, and never to this extent.

Headunit: Sony DSX-S310BTX - This was chosen for its ability to use Pandora with an Android phone. However, I've noticed that the opinion seems to be that Sony doesn't do a very good job with car audio. My other choice was the Kenwood KDC-X995. I've also noticed that there isn't a very high opinion of Kenwood though as well.

Front doors: JBL GTO8608C 6x8 components.

Rear Doors: Kenwood KFC-C6893PS 6x8s.

Subwoofer: Kenwood KFC-XW1224D

Amplifiers:

Kenwood KAC-8405 for the door speakers

Kenwood KAC-8105D for the subwoofer

I've already purchased a 0AWG wiring kit, KNI-11 fuse holder, KNF-12 distribution block and KND-23 ground block from KnuKonceptz, along with 4AWG power wire for the amps and additional RCA cables, so I have all three sets already. So the budget I mentioned above is for speakers, subwoofer, sub enclosure, head-unit, wiring harness/CAN interface, steering wheel control adapter, and amplifiers.

Since some, possibly all, of the listed components may not be the best bang for my buck, I'd like to get some recommendations and opinions from you. I don't even know what good brands are and what brands I should steer clear of...

Thanks.

 
he has 1200 all together. Also that kenwood x995 is a solid cd player, get that cd player. OP are you game to make speaker baffels?

 
are you looking for new or used ,i'd nicks all the kenwood amps as they are crap you can get better for a good price.also since you dont want alot of bass ,look at a 8 or 10 inch woofer,also is your fusion a trunk or hatch ,that will help us out alot for reccomendations

 
I would prefer to buy new equipment.

Both decks have six pre-outs at 4v.

The Fusion is only available as a sedan.

I'm not sure what you mean by "speaker baffles", but if I've got the tools to make them, I'm game.

I had a pair of 12s in my Focus hatch on a Kenwood 8103D and they were overkill for that car, in my opinion, but I loved the way they sounded when I didn't have them turned up to the point that they overpowered everything else.

 
Personally, I'd never own anything Kenwood. Their HU's have always been rather difficult to use and never sounded better or were more reliable than equally priced HU's. Their amps, even their higher end amps, have always been junk. Some of their higher end speakers were OK but there has always been a better value elsewhere. But for some reason people always have bought Kenwood stuff...I don't get it.

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a processor to work with the factory radio instead of swapping in an aftermarket unit. Aftermarket radios today, IMO, are not as good as they used to be and almost always look like hell when installed in a new car. The added 'features' do not make up for their gritty sounding DACs and clown-car looks. Yuk...

For amplifiers, I've always liked big multi-channel amps. A single 5/6ch amp to run your whole system will not only save you a few bucks on accessories (you can return the 1/0 wire right?) but it often has a footprint smaller than 2 separate amps & installs better. I would also not worry too much about 'watts' for either and instead focus on buying a quality amp. Lots of people here are brainwashed in thinking a watt is a watt...but that's not the whole story. For good amps within a budget; look for Made in USA in the classifieds section. The newest amp I currently own was made in '94 or so...still sounds great today.

For speakers; you really need to listen to some before you buy. The specs on any speaker are worthless b/c they'll judged subjectively by the end user no matter how well they look on paper. Some people absolutely loved the older German MB Quart speakers while the rest of humanity absolutely hated them. Those speakers always looked good on paper though. Conversely, the older ADS speakers looked like hell on paper...but you'd be hard pressed to find a human that didn't think they sounded good.

Subwoofer choice should be made based on how big of a footprint you're willing to sacrifice in your trunk. For an every-day system with a home theatre kinda sound to it, there's no need for multiple subs. A single 10" or 12" will be more than enough for most people. The best bang-for-the-buck sub out there, IMO anyway, would be the lower-end Image Dynamics ID subs. They sound every bit as good as the more expensive IDQ woofers but cost about 1/2 as much. Even better, they don't need a whole lot of power to get going...unlike most of the garbage that's out there today.

 
running a 4 channel amp would work well for you and be easier to install.

You really went overkill on the wire but that is fine - a 4 gauge kit would have been plenty for what you are trying to do.

MB Quart makes a good 4 channel amp - gets good reviews - is flexible.

MB Quart ONX4.125 - 1000W RMS ONYX 4-Channel Car Amplifier/Amp

You would run your door speakers from 2 channels and bridge the other 2 channels to run a 10" subwoofer

 
Personally, I'd never own anything Kenwood. Their HU's have always been rather difficult to use and never sounded better or were more reliable than equally priced HU's. Their amps, even their higher end amps, have always been junk. Some of their higher end speakers were OK but there has always been a better value elsewhere. But for some reason people always have bought Kenwood stuff...I don't get it.
If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a processor to work with the factory radio instead of swapping in an aftermarket unit. Aftermarket radios today, IMO, are not as good as they used to be and almost always look like hell when installed in a new car. The added 'features' do not make up for their gritty sounding DACs and clown-car looks. Yuk...

For amplifiers, I've always liked big multi-channel amps. A single 5/6ch amp to run your whole system will not only save you a few bucks on accessories (you can return the 1/0 wire right?) but it often has a footprint smaller than 2 separate amps & installs better. I would also not worry too much about 'watts' for either and instead focus on buying a quality amp. Lots of people here are brainwashed in thinking a watt is a watt...but that's not the whole story. For good amps within a budget; look for Made in USA in the classifieds section. The newest amp I currently own was made in '94 or so...still sounds great today.

For speakers; you really need to listen to some before you buy. The specs on any speaker are worthless b/c they'll judged subjectively by the end user no matter how well they look on paper. Some people absolutely loved the older German MB Quart speakers while the rest of humanity absolutely hated them. Those speakers always looked good on paper though. Conversely, the older ADS speakers looked like hell on paper...but you'd be hard pressed to find a human that didn't think they sounded good.

Subwoofer choice should be made based on how big of a footprint you're willing to sacrifice in your trunk. For an every-day system with a home theatre kinda sound to it, there's no need for multiple subs. A single 10" or 12" will be more than enough for most people. The best bang-for-the-buck sub out there, IMO anyway, would be the lower-end Image Dynamics ID subs. They sound every bit as good as the more expensive IDQ woofers but cost about 1/2 as much. Even better, they don't need a whole lot of power to get going...unlike most of the garbage that's out there today.
I might have an Arc Audio KS 900.6 amplifier and a Rockford Fosgate 360.2 processor that might be for sale if I can get a reasonable price for the both of em'.

 
I'd definitely scrap the Kenwood amps. As for the headunit, definitely scratch the Sony. I've only used a Kenwood before and I will agree their UI is exceptionally difficult. But once I got it down, and understood everything, it's a breeze to get through. I've just ordered a new Kenwood x-994, which should be here today. x995 was my second choice and looks good to me, and I've heard great things from it. I think it'll be a good choice for ya man. I was also looking at this one: Buy Kenwood KDC-BT948HD In-Dash USB/CD Receiver with Built-in Bluetooth & HD Radio for $224.95

BnG makes a good point on using a processor and keeping your factory HU, definitely an option, and for ultimate clarity and tuning. Also, using a good 5-channel amp. On a budget I'd recommend the eD 9.5: Elemental Designs: Car Stereo, Home Speakers, Electronics

That sale is long done, but they are available in b-stock from their forum for $350 shipped. Great underrated amps, clean, no BS. I run a couple of their other ones and I am very happy with them.

Cheaper, cleaner, lower powered subs?

SSA Dcon: Sub Woofers - SoundSolutionsAudio - DCON - SSA STORE

Dayton Reference: Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-460

IA 187: Sub Woofers - Incriminator Audio - 187 - SSA STORE

Skar: Sub Woofers - Skar Audio - SSA STORE

TC Sounds Epic: TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer 293-656

Depending on how much power you want to run on your Sub-stage. Most of those will perform very well in a smaller sealed enclosure, and I'd probably go with a 10 or 12 if you're going sealed. If you're willing to give up just a bit of space, a ported 8" would be great. Skar and TC Sounds make some pretty beast 8's.

I run 1200+w to my sub, and have 300w on my front stage and I can hear my front speakers at all volumes, clear and clean, no problem. The sub doesn't drown it out because it's tuned properly.

The Kenwood speakers I'd scrap as well. I've owned a pair and am not impressed. If you get 6x8 to 6.5 speaker adapter rings, you'll have a lot more options on better components and coaxials for front and rear.

 
first off I'd never use a factory head unit and claim its highend..

no processing will make up for poor dampening Poor d/a converters and less than ideal output signals..

secondly kenwood has always made decent h/u..

there amps aren't junk but they aren't highend ethier..

my first bit of advice would be to get a nice h/u..

doesn't need a ton of processing just something clean.

WoofersEtc.com - KDC-X895 - Kenwood Excelon In-Dash CD Receiver with Bluetooth/Color LCD Display

WoofersEtc.com - FD6000 - ARC Audio 6.5" Component Set

WoofersEtc.com - KS 300.4 - ARC Audio 4 Channel 700 Watt Amplifier

WoofersEtc.com - D612D2 - Diamond Audio 12" 1200 Watt Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer

emxcellent budget system with all highquality components..

 
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