VVME audiopipe clones cheap!

[2010HHRUMADBRUH 10+ year member]

We need someone to clamp these and provide actual clean RMS output of each amp @ 1 ohm

 

[nu2spl 10+ year member]

We need someone to clamp these and provide actual clean RMS output of each amp @ 1 ohm

no you need to just not buy it and go with something better

 

[2010HHRUMADBRUH 10+ year member]

no you need to just not buy it and go with something better

Good thing I already have a sundown saz1500d huh? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[nu2spl 10+ year member]

Good thing I already have a sundown saz1500d huh? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

good boy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suave.gif.858fc102f7646e678ee8af7e1fbc41d1.gif ima try the 5k lool

 

[Spooney 10+ year member]

I will probably buy one of the 5000 watt ones just to see how good or bad they really are . I mean its only 100 bucks. May buy a clamp meter just to test it.

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

I will probably buy one of the 5000 watt ones just to see how good or bad they really are . I mean its only 100 bucks. May buy a clamp meter just to test it.

I have one text me for guts

 

[SubieSPL_Maniac 10+ year member]

I have one text me for guts

how do they perform so far? im thinking of getting 2

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

how do they perform so far? im thinking of getting 2

look at this thread

VVME Amps??? AP Knockoffs... - Page 11 - FloridaSPL

 

[zinda 10+ year member]

Got one of these last week, paid $83.00 and got all ready with some new 4ga wires, like it recommends, had me worried I may have to do an alt upgrade. Installed it and found out that the need for 4ga was needed in some fantasy world that the guys who wrote the spec sheet only live in. I'd say this amp has a RNS rating of around 15 watts! It sounds very similar to one of those equalizer/power boosters that were popular in the late 70's, Spark o matic and Craig were the leaders. I had one made by Tankreedi that was just as awful as this amp is. I'm trying to figure out why they bothered with the remote? Since it cannot even keep up with my midbass it has no need to reduce the output. It will not even be any good if used with straight deck power since deck power will have 4 channels of the same power as this has, complete joke! After a few hours of making sure everything was installed right and settings were right and testing it, I concluded it to be embarrassing to even let anyone hear it or even know it was in my car ever, I sent it back before any of my friends could find out I ever had it.

It seems like buying anything in car stereo today is just a complete risk, between the complete lies that the Manufacturers print and the lack of any reputable companies actually making their own products any more, I don't see how anyone could even build a decent system. You can't rely on any specs to go by so how could you possibly even select the components. This max power output rating in the past was the first indication of an amp that should be avoided at all cost, kind of like they we warning you not to buy it. I'm thinking this still holds very true today, even if the amps have RMS ratings on their specs, do the math and think about what they are claiming: P(power in watts)=I(intensity in amps)x E(electricity in volts) So, if P=1600wats E=14votls then I=140amps or so if the amp is 100& efficient, this amp is rated at 85% so add on another 20amps making the current draw of this amp to be around 160amps at max power! I used a 40 amp fuse in my rear fuse block and unless this amp was struck by lightning it could never even come close to blowing that small fuse, even if it gave it 1 volt it still couldn't draw more than 15 amps since I figured it to be about 15 watts output power. I have a picture of all the other amps I've recently auditioned that were all far superior than this one except I forgot to include an Alpine VR350 which is installed right now and a Realistic xp200 in this shot, I was putting a new cap in it.

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

I forget which amp was tested in that fspl thread but it did the same power as it's ap brother.

 

[babsuhl81 10+ year member]

You must have got a bad amp. No1 else said that it was that weak. Or you could have something wrong still. It happens

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

Those prices are alot more than they were a month or 2 ago...

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Got one of these last week, paid $83.00 and got all ready with some new 4ga wires, like it recommends, had me worried I may have to do an alt upgrade. Installed it and found out that the need for 4ga was needed in some fantasy world that the guys who wrote the spec sheet only live in. I'd say this amp has a RNS rating of around 15 watts! It sounds very similar to one of those equalizer/power boosters that were popular in the late 70's, Spark o matic and Craig were the leaders. I had one made by Tankreedi that was just as awful as this amp is. I'm trying to figure out why they bothered with the remote? Since it cannot even keep up with my midbass it has no need to reduce the output. It will not even be any good if used with straight deck power since deck power will have 4 channels of the same power as this has, complete joke! After a few hours of making sure everything was installed right and settings were right and testing it, I concluded it to be embarrassing to even let anyone hear it or even know it was in my car ever, I sent it back before any of my friends could find out I ever had it. It seems like buying anything in car stereo today is just a complete risk, between the complete lies that the Manufacturers print and the lack of any reputable companies actually making their own products any more, I don't see how anyone could even build a decent system. You can't rely on any specs to go by so how could you possibly even select the components. This max power output rating in the past was the first indication of an amp that should be avoided at all cost, kind of like they we warning you not to buy it. I'm thinking this still holds very true today, even if the amps have RMS ratings on their specs, do the math and think about what they are claiming: P(power in watts)=I(intensity in amps)x E(electricity in volts) So, if P=1600wats E=14votls then I=140amps or so if the amp is 100& efficient, this amp is rated at 85% so add on another 20amps making the current draw of this amp to be around 160amps at max power! I used a 40 amp fuse in my rear fuse block and unless this amp was struck by lightning it could never even come close to blowing that small fuse, even if it gave it 1 volt it still couldn't draw more than 15 amps since I figured it to be about 15 watts output power. I have a picture of all the other amps I've recently auditioned that were all far superior than this one except I forgot to include an Alpine VR350 which is installed right now and a Realistic xp200 in this shot, I was putting a new cap in it.

Please stop typing.

And for fux sake, clean your house. That's nasty.

 

[babsuhl81 10+ year member]

The 12s went up. I got them for 120/pr off their site. Ebay is 130 each and their site is 160 each now. I'm sure the amps will go up in price too