*VID* nJizm13's 6 SSD10's, and a TL *VID*

So... what do you guys think about...
TWO Kicker ZX2500.1's @ 1.5ohms EACH this weekend?!?!?!?!?!? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Thanks to Jason, it's gonna happen //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

nG
painful

 
27hz - 46hz
do I get a cookie? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Loyd L.
you sho do //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
This is the box design I personally used when I competed in IASCA years ago. I chose small pickups, an S10 and a Ford Ranger for my vehicle for a very specific reason. That reason is I hate distortion and love clean bass. The two pickups, Ranger being the better of the two, both exhibit the lowest body panel flex of any cars because of the simple fact they were so much smaller, and no perfectly flat areas existed. The small cabin greatly exaggerates cabin gain and pressure issues making this type of install rather challenging, another reason I went for it.
The biggest MISTAKE people make with pickups is trying to use 2 - 12" woofers. 90% of the time, the boxes can't be built large enough to yield low bass, and 100% of the time, the larger cone area crammed against the back seat doesn't breath right.

Then there is the issue of bracing and box quality in general. If your box is the average store bought carpeted wedge without bracing you create a monster in your truck that generates ear fatigue within minutes. This coupled with the only flat surface to flex (the back window) can give you permanent ear damage within weeks.

A properly built and braced box like this one can be listened to at high levels all day long without creating ear fatigue because there is no panel distortion. Adding an attractive oak cleat to your rear window is also a sound idea for the same reason.

We found that this box design fits in all small pickups, including the Ranger that has a brace only 14 inches from the floor holding your cabinet out an extra inch. (This one fits under it). The idea is to get the box as far back as possible, ideally glued directly to the steel. (Yes remove the carpet, or cut it out for the box) This box fits these trucks at only 13.5 inches high and at 7.75 inches deep it is possible to have the seat all the way back.

This cabinet seems simple, and it is, but not because there is no design or testing behind it. In the high pressure-quick cabin response atmosphere of the small pickups, we found that the best coupling comes from centering the drivers as close together as possible and as low in the box as possible. This origin yields the most even distribution of pressure within the cabin and cuts through the seat far better than the more typical separated alignments you so often see.

The volume of the box is small, and the magnet on many heavy duty woofers will almost touch the back of the cabinet. If you model the average small box sub on the computer for this box volume you will usually get very poor low end response. In the real world however, the cabin gain and back seat have almost the same effective loading characteristics as a band pass alignment and consequently effect the actual output to a degree that can't be easily modeled.

This means that even when left 2nd order (sealed) a pair of kicker C-10's or MTX terminators, or the DHM-108, or JL10WS, or basically any small box subwoofer won't sound like much in the low bass department in your garage, but once installed into the truck, you will see wonderful response below 32 Hz most of the time.

If you choose to port the cabinet, it must be ported out the ends at the bottom of the cabinet so that the ports fire into the door. This is absolutely essential with this box design.

We feel this is the maximum amount of bass you can install into a small pickup using two 10" subs without using the bed or cutting holes. Grate care was taken to keep the cabinet small and integrated into the cab so that there would be the CORRECT amount of air left in the cabin to resonate at lower frequencies. If you increase the woofer size, the bass is actually reduced from less efficient coupling.

This is a divided box to accommodate stereo or mono bass. It can be run full range with no crossover in combination with 3.5" dash speakers for surprisingly good sound in a budget system, the full range creating midbass and rear ambient fill. We recommend active crossovers and decent mid bass drivers low in the door combined with a good pair of VIFA soft dome home speaker tweeters in the dash.

The finish on the box is representative of all DECWARE boxes. It is an acrylic base coat (white) with a marbleized (sponge work) coat of black followed by a translucent vinyl top coat. The top coat determines the actual color, in this case red to match the interior. The top coat is called MAR HIDE or something like that, and is a vinyl paint used for touching up car interiors. Available in all colors at any auto supply store.

Options for this enclose would include using a pair of 8" or even 6" subwoofers rather then 10's. The box size remains exactly the same.
There are plenty of perfectly flat places and lots of flex with my extended cab B3000. Also, I had plenty of room for an Avalanche 18.

 
I already know ALL about street SPL in ext. cab trucks.
kthnx.

nG
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

Nothin in that Decware Paragraph was new news...in fact some of it was wrong...especially the no flat pannels part. My truck went crazy with 2 RL-p's sealed...Cant Wait to see what it will do witha BTL.

 
Backwall flex FTL. I have a feeling if you have someone park their fat *** there for burps you will see a gain. We will see once I get my SPL set up up and running. Or someone can just go ahead and confirm it.

Thing is, I've never seen anyone do that at a competition.

 
Backwall flex FTL. I have a feeling if you have someone park their fat *** there for burps you will see a gain. We will see once I get my SPL set up up and running. Or someone can just go ahead and confirm it.
Thing is, I've never seen anyone do that at a competition.
Im not uderstanding...I get the backwall flex...hell the hole back part of my truck flexes. Are you suggesting someone stand in the bed and brace the back glass area?
I lost when I braced my back wall. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

And it moves A LOT.

EDIT: Actually, I lose when I brace ANY part of my truck...

 
Im not uderstanding...I get the backwall flex...hell the hole back part of my truck flexes. Are you suggesting someone stand in the bed and brace the back glass area?
Exactly. People sit on windsheilds and lean agianst doors, why not park some ones behind agianst the back wall to keep it from flexing as well.

 
sometimes flex is a good thing..

you even breathe on my hatch in the aveo.. score goes down nearly a db..

and it flexes to where you could fit your finger between the hatch, and the car.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Loyd L.

 
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ngsm13

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