Upgraded wiring, loss of output?

SGSeeker
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I just finished replacing my 4 gauge run to the amps' distribution block with 1/0 gauge Kicker and swapped all my 1/0 under the hood with the Kicker and I appear to somehow have lost a ton of output afterwards. Settings on the headunit were changed back to what they were at before disconnecting the battery. Before, I was having to turn the subs down a bit (-4 to -10 depending on song) so they wouldn't overwhelm the front stage that runs off an Alpine PDX, now I can barely hear them, unless I crank it up +6 in the headunit. Yesterday I was driving along and had to have the volume turned up at 48/60 (I had set gains at 50) to get the same output level that I had previously used ~34 for...for both the subs and front stage. Any ideas on where to look before I need to pull the amps back out (they're deeply tucked within the vehicle) and recheck the gains (which I hadn't touched, nor moved the amps, only the wire going to the T-block)?

I don't see how a wiring change would cause this, especially after running additional grounds around the vehicle at the same time (along with the 0 gauge, made some new 10 gauge to chassis runs for certain electronics in the dash, with all grounds being connected together with a 2" long bolt). Grounds each get a perfect sized bolt into a chassis drilled hole which gets the paint ground off with a dremel, washers used, etc. Dielectric grease used where it could help. The connections are solid.

I figured that maybe my ears were just toning it down, but the wind noise was just as loud (or quiet, since its pretty deadened) as ever.

Ideas? Theories? Solutions?

 
Pioneer DEH-7800MP, Two IB TC7 subs crossed at 63hz/18db, Aurum Cantis 7's in doors crossed at 80/12db, Older Eclipse 3.5" dash speakers (no dedicated tweeters yet) crossed at 160/12db, Eclipse XA1000 and Alpine PDX 2.150 amps. EQ's set to flat, as I get very even frequency response via the hardware. 4ft 1/0 from alternator to fuse block, fuse block to T-block, T-block to battery terminal and car fuse box, 1/0 run from battery terminal/fused to amps. All crossover adjustments are done via the headunit. I'm not really sure whats up. As for grounds, the battery has a 6" piece of 1/0 going to the chassis, 2 more 10awg 12" going to the chassis, one 4awg running to the engine block, and the alternator bracket being ground to the chassis with 1/0 (the smaller runs are factory, but with my 0awg/4awg/dual 8awg ground terminal, there's no reason not to leave them there). Unless set screws are used, everything's crimped, soldered, and heatshrinked.

 
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SGSeeker

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