Upgrade alt w/o new batt DOESNT work!

[quote name='DarkKnightSM']Go figure! I finally got my mechman alternator install done, belts tight but not to tight. No squeeks, everything tight and secure and terminal to metal surface areas sanded down awhile ago.

Yet i still have headlight dimming. Infact a new symtom has been added, now, at idle, when the bass hits, the car **** near stalls!? However, this is only on the first bass note hit. Subsequent hits do not effect the rpms hardly at all. Id have to pause the music and start it again for it to almost stall again. The whole time i was reading about 14.37 to 14.28 on MY volt meter. So then i took it to advanced auto parts for them to test with their fancy tester and theirs says pretty much the same thing

Except!, a drop down below 10 volts early on, but that portion appears to be from starting? Idk it appears the info on the printout is conflicting.

Anywho im almost positive that a stronger battery is nesesary to compentsate for those first bass hits, theres also something in my car called an ELD or something, i forgot now. Regulates the load pulled from the accessories. Maybe i should look at that too

Note: not pushing more then 600-700 watts max and stock alt was 70 amps, mechman alt is 240.

Oh and my thinking for a new battery works like this...the first hit comes from the battery because my alternator was "surprized" by the sudden demand for electricity. My interstate battery couldnt keep up, hence the close to stalling, but luckily after a few split seconds the alternator supplies the battery with what my system is demanding. But my question is why wasnt i having this problem with the stock alt. Sorry for being wordy, just trying to get all the info out there[/QUOTE]

[quote name='DarkKnightSM']And yes this is in my 02 civic. Thats fascinating how H/O alts but a much heavier load on smaller engines. **** this tiny 1.7 liter[/QUOTE]

New battery and 240 amp alt is way overkill for 600-700 watts. It is a problem with your vehicle, not the equipment. That engine is ridiculously small for a 240 amp alt. Plus, Honda ELD (like GM's PCM regulation) sucks. I don't know what to do about the ELD, but another Honda owner on here might be able to help you. Not sure if it will make much of a difference though. Your engine is just small. Still, I'm surprised it can't supply enough power for a 700 watt amp.

[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']Hmm interesting. I'm on the hunt for an Interstate battery. I'm surprised that it can't keep up with demand...? @adulbrich

What gauge wiring are you using for big 3? It almost sounds like you knew you had a dying battery but went with upgrading alt anyway. I would get that battery load tested.[/QUOTE]

Don't buy an interstate battery. Get an Exide.
 
New battery and 240 amp alt is way overkill for 600-700 watts. It is a problem with your vehicle, not the equipment. That engine is ridiculously small for a 240 amp alt. Plus, Honda ELD (like GM's PCM regulation) sucks. I don't know what to do about the ELD, but another Honda owner on here might be able to help you. Not sure if it will make much of a difference though. Your engine is just small. Still, I'm surprised it can't supply enough power for a 700 watt amp.


Don't buy an interstate battery. Get an Exide.
Uh oh...what happened with Interstate? And why Exide?

 
OP loves to waste his money.

As I pointed out to him already the Honda has an ELD that turns the alternator on and off depending on demand.

That motor is too small for a 240 amp alt.

OP has a very low power system.

All he needed to do is bypass the ELD in his car.

Now what I would recommend (although you never take advice) is to sell that alternator to someone else and put your stock one back on and bypass the ELD.

Second to that I would change the pulley on the new alternator to a larger one which will be less strain on the tiny motor in that car.

You do not need these upgrades for 600 watts.

 
sounds like the ELD kicks in and requires massive current fully loading the alternatorcausing it to stall.

you want a more smooth current draw

 
OP loves to waste his money.
As I pointed out to him already the Honda has an ELD that turns the alternator on and off depending on demand.

That motor is too small for a 240 amp alt.

OP has a very low power system.

All he needed to do is bypass the ELD in his car.

Now what I would recommend (although you never take advice) is to sell that alternator to someone else and put your stock one back on and bypass the ELD.

Second to that I would change the pulley on the new alternator to a larger one which will be less strain on the tiny motor in that car.

You do not need these upgrades for 600 watts.
There he is! I was wondering when you when you were gonna show up. I looked up bypassing the ELD awhile ago but it seemed alittle involved. But it looks like i am faced with having to bypass this. Anywho yes this is overkill for my current system but as im learning this hobby i planon going bigger, way bigger. Atleast 5kw later down the road

 
There he is! I was wondering when you when you were gonna show up. I looked up bypassing the ELD awhile ago but it seemed alittle involved. But it looks like i am faced with having to bypass this. Anywho yes this is overkill for my current system but as im learning this hobby i planon going bigger, way bigger. Atleast 5kw later down the road

Email Mechman and see what they say, seems to me you could replace the excite wire on the alt and then have full power always advailable.

On my Honda I bypassed the ELD using a resister but yours is newer than the one I had and your is different.

I am quite sure that Mechman has a solution.

 
Email Mechman and see what they say, seems to me you could replace the excite wire on the alt and then have full power always advailable.
On my Honda I bypassed the ELD using a resister but yours is newer than the one I had and your is different.

I am quite sure that Mechman has a solution.
Interesting! Sweet then i will most certainly email them. Thanks:)

 
Email Mechman and see what they say, seems to me you could replace the excite wire on the alt and then have full power always advailable.
On my Honda I bypassed the ELD using a resister but yours is newer than the one I had and your is different.

I am quite sure that Mechman has a solution.
Oh and are you aware of any consequences of bypassing the eld. Seems like there's plenty of people doing it. But not reported problems. Honda put it in for a reason but what is that reason. Save the life of the alternator?, less strain on the motor?

 
I have a 2011 Accord with three amps. Big 3(ordered my 240amp mechman) and don't have any issues. So there is something else going on, unless it's true that small engine can't keep up with the big alt. I just keep my lights on to get passed the eld issue.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

 
I have a 2011 Accord with three amps. Big 3(ordered my 240amp mechman) and don't have any issues. So there is something else going on, unless it's true that small engine can't keep up with the big alt. I just keep my lights on to get passed the eld issue.
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Im thinking its just more taxing on the engine upon stator start up or whatever initially. After its in H/O mode it seems to be fine. I tend to idle my car alot so breaks in music appear to cause the alt to kick on and off via the ELD

 
you need to do an eld bypass. Your alt doesnt charge most of the times when driving unless your voltages go below 12. Dumbest design ever to us car audio guys.

If you cant do it, then go do some tuning mechanic shop thats familiar with hondas and show them the thread and tell them what you want the ELD to be bypassed.

 
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