Upgrade alt w/o new batt DOESNT work!

DarkKnightSM

Senior VIP Member
Go figure! I finally got my mechman alternator install done, belts tight but not to tight. No squeeks, everything tight and secure and terminal to metal surface areas sanded down awhile ago.

Yet i still have headlight dimming. Infact a new symtom has been added, now, at idle, when the bass hits, the car **** near stalls!? However, this is only on the first bass note hit. Subsequent hits do not effect the rpms hardly at all. Id have to pause the music and start it again for it to almost stall again. The whole time i was reading about 14.37 to 14.28 on MY volt meter. So then i took it to advanced auto parts for them to test with their fancy tester and theirs says pretty much the same thing

Except!, a drop down below 10 volts early on, but that portion appears to be from starting? Idk it appears the info on the printout is conflicting.

Anywho im almost positive that a stronger battery is nesesary to compentsate for those first bass hits, theres also something in my car called an ELD or something, i forgot now. Regulates the load pulled from the accessories. Maybe i should look at that too

Note: not pushing more then 600-700 watts max and stock alt was 70 amps, mechman alt is 240.

Oh and my thinking for a new battery works like this...the first hit comes from the battery because my alternator was "surprized" by the sudden demand for electricity. My interstate battery couldnt keep up, hence the close to stalling, but luckily after a few split seconds the alternator supplies the battery with what my system is demanding. But my question is why wasnt i having this problem with the stock alt. Sorry for being wordy, just trying to get all the info out there

 
Hmm interesting. I'm on the hunt for an Interstate battery. I'm surprised that it can't keep up with demand...? @adulbrich

What gauge wiring are you using for big 3? It almost sounds like you knew you had a dying battery but went with upgrading alt anyway. I would get that battery load tested.
 
Edit: i must have remebered wrong, cause i did the test again with a strong bass hit and the voltage drops down to about 12 for a split second. Peaks back up to roughly 15, then settles back down to 14.37 or so even with bass hits. Before i spend a bunch of money maybe i should look into that elctronic load regular or whatever, someone mentioned it on one of my other posts so ill check it out before i drop another couple hundred on batteries.

 
I might be wrong for asking/assuming, but: What size is your big 3 done in? And I assume you have a Honda? Between the voltage drop and the fact that high output alternators are harder to turn for a motor (especially small ones) I could see almost stalling it out, that voltage drop may be from your alternator not realizing there's a large draw on it right away (I forgot the technical terms right now, I apologize) kind of hard to believe a 240 can't keep up with less than 1krms if my 280 can deal with 2k at .5

 
I'm running stock 110a alt. FSD 3800 with a limitless and stay high 13's all day. Had a machman in my old escape with a XS under the hood. Wasn't really impressed. Mechman was a 240A

 
I might be wrong for asking/assuming, but: What size is your big 3 done in? And I assume you have a Honda? Between the voltage drop and the fact that high output alternators are harder to turn for a motor (especially small ones) I could see almost stalling it out, that voltage drop may be from your alternator not realizing there's a large draw on it right away (I forgot the technical terms right now, I apologize) kind of hard to believe a 240 can't keep up with less than 1krms if my 280 can deal with 2k at .5
I have stinger 1/0 ofc guage wire for the big 3. Oh wait, i had an issue with the engine groundwire. I couldnt get it crimped enough, and over time it would slide out of the ring terminals. So i had to used 4 gauge wire because those were the only terminals i had available. I know, i know bad ju ju to use smaller groun and i will fix that now actually. However my thinking at the time was... i am not pulling enough power to even fully utilize 4 guage wire let alone 1/0. I beleive 4 guage is good somehwere in the ballpark of 1500 to 2500 watts but cant remember. Anyway with that though was hoping 4 guage would be good enough until i can get a hydrolic crimper for 1/0 guage

 
I might be wrong for asking/assuming, but: What size is your big 3 done in? And I assume you have a Honda? Between the voltage drop and the fact that high output alternators are harder to turn for a motor (especially small ones) I could see almost stalling it out, that voltage drop may be from your alternator not realizing there's a large draw on it right away (I forgot the technical terms right now, I apologize) kind of hard to believe a 240 can't keep up with less than 1krms if my 280 can deal with 2k at .5

And yes this is in my 02 civic. Thats fascinating how H/O alts but a much heavier load on smaller engines. **** this tiny 1.7 liter

 
the stater doesn't energize until it spins fat enough and/or you have a load on it.. as long as im above 1200 RPM i don't go below 13.5 anad i have a POWER HOG class A/B 1000 with a 4kw running @ .5

 
the stater doesn't energize until it spins fat enough and/or you have a load on it.. as long as im above 1200 RPM i don't go below 13.5 anad i have a POWER HOG class A/B 1000 with a 4kw running @ .5
Ahhh, that makes sense. Scary at first cause i didnt read anything about this. But all seems good so far

 
No just 1 right now. Soon as I get a D1 recone I'll strap the Orion's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
that hatch is killer. the only way trunk can compete is basically 6th order sealing off the trunk..

 
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DarkKnightSM

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