jazzsax4385
Junior Member
Hey Guys,
I am having a problem. I recently got a new truck and put the same system from my old truck in the new one. I have blown 2 different tweeters in 2 weeks!! I have a Sony HU, Pheonix Gold 6.5 Sd Radial comps in the front, Clarion 10" Shallow Mount Sub, and a Rockford Fosgate 501x punch amp. Channels 1 & 2 I am using to push the PG comps. 3 & 4 are bridged for the sub. Both gains on the amp are set at 3/4 of the way up.
Here are the specs on the PG comps:
RSd 6-1/2" 2-way Component System
Injection Molded, Aluminum Plated Polypropylene Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
Rigid Powder Coated Steel Frame
Interwoven Tinsel Leads
Optimized Magnet/Motor Structure
Power Handling:
* 60 watts RMS
* 120 watts Peak
Sensitivity: 88 dB
Frequency Response: 45 Hz - 20 kHz
4 Ohm Impedance
Specs for sub:
600 Watts Maximum Music Power
300 Watts RMS
Single 4 Ohm Heat Resistant Voice Coil
Polypropylene Electronic Spun Aluminum Dust Cap
Fiber Glass / Paper Cone Design
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber High Excursion Surround
Strontium Ferrite Magnets
Hyper Extended Vented Pole Piece
Spider Exhaust Technology (SET) Cooling
Dual Gold Plated Terminal Blocks
Linear Cotton Spider with Integrated Tinsel leads
Custom Shallow Stamped Steel Powder Coated Chassis
Specs for amp:
•65 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
•125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
•250 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms in bridged mode
•2-, 3-, or 4-channel output
•4-ohm stable in bridged mode
•Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
•requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
•front and rear switchable high-pass (120 Hz, 12 dB/octave) and low-pass (80 Hz, 12 dB/octave) crossovers
•MOSFET power supply and output devices
•Maximum Efficiency Heat Sink Application (MEHSA) mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
•TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
•*****•ana circuitry keeps preamp voltages low and signal paths simple for outstanding audio quality
•NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
•speaker- and preamp-level inputs
•preamp outputs
•12-1/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
I'm pretty new to car stereo systems. I had this setup in my old truck for over a year and had no problems, except for the sub would start going crazy on me a few times. The comps sounded great. I could play them as loud as I wanted and they would never distort. On my Sony HU, the avg listening vol would be between 18-22, goes up to 30max I believe. Never would get them above 25. Now that I have installed it in my new truck, I have blown the drivers side tweeter twice (I think??). The first one looked like someone pushed in the dome with a pencil eraser or something. Didn't look blown, but the creases were effecting the sound, making it sound blown. Figured maybe somehow I might have hit it with something, but I can't figure out how the hell I would have done it??
Last week I ordered replacements. Pheonix Gold Ryval Tweets. I replaced both driver and passenger for looks. I replaced them 2 days ago and am starting to hear distortion and crackling and ocassionally the tweet will completely stop playing whenever the volume gets around 18. At 22, it is unbearable to listen to. The passenger side I can play as loud as I want and it sounds fine.
Things that I did different on this install are:
1. New truck was already professionally wired for an amp. Looks to be about 10 awg wire for + and -. I was using 8 awg before.
2. Ran different speaker wire. I used 14 awg wire. I was using 12 awg in my old truck.
I was pretty tired when I was installing it in the new truck. Took me about 12 hrs to do it properly. I'm afraid that I might have gotten some wires mixed up or something. Would this cause the driver's side tweet to keep messing up? The woofer works fine. I'm about 99% sure I didn't mix them up because I labled all the wires, but there's that 1% chance that I may have mixed up + and - on one end from being tired and not fully aware. BTW, passenger side woofer/tweet and sub are all working properly. I plan on double checking all the wiring and connections tomorrow, but I wanted to see what you guys think incase it's not a wiring issue. I'm hoping that's all it is.
What do you guys think???
Thanks in advance,
Ben
I am having a problem. I recently got a new truck and put the same system from my old truck in the new one. I have blown 2 different tweeters in 2 weeks!! I have a Sony HU, Pheonix Gold 6.5 Sd Radial comps in the front, Clarion 10" Shallow Mount Sub, and a Rockford Fosgate 501x punch amp. Channels 1 & 2 I am using to push the PG comps. 3 & 4 are bridged for the sub. Both gains on the amp are set at 3/4 of the way up.
Here are the specs on the PG comps:
RSd 6-1/2" 2-way Component System
Injection Molded, Aluminum Plated Polypropylene Cone
Butyl Rubber Surround
Rigid Powder Coated Steel Frame
Interwoven Tinsel Leads
Optimized Magnet/Motor Structure
Power Handling:
* 60 watts RMS
* 120 watts Peak
Sensitivity: 88 dB
Frequency Response: 45 Hz - 20 kHz
4 Ohm Impedance
Specs for sub:
600 Watts Maximum Music Power
300 Watts RMS
Single 4 Ohm Heat Resistant Voice Coil
Polypropylene Electronic Spun Aluminum Dust Cap
Fiber Glass / Paper Cone Design
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber High Excursion Surround
Strontium Ferrite Magnets
Hyper Extended Vented Pole Piece
Spider Exhaust Technology (SET) Cooling
Dual Gold Plated Terminal Blocks
Linear Cotton Spider with Integrated Tinsel leads
Custom Shallow Stamped Steel Powder Coated Chassis
Specs for amp:
•65 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
•125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
•250 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms in bridged mode
•2-, 3-, or 4-channel output
•4-ohm stable in bridged mode
•Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
•requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
•front and rear switchable high-pass (120 Hz, 12 dB/octave) and low-pass (80 Hz, 12 dB/octave) crossovers
•MOSFET power supply and output devices
•Maximum Efficiency Heat Sink Application (MEHSA) mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
•TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
•*****•ana circuitry keeps preamp voltages low and signal paths simple for outstanding audio quality
•NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
•speaker- and preamp-level inputs
•preamp outputs
•12-1/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
I'm pretty new to car stereo systems. I had this setup in my old truck for over a year and had no problems, except for the sub would start going crazy on me a few times. The comps sounded great. I could play them as loud as I wanted and they would never distort. On my Sony HU, the avg listening vol would be between 18-22, goes up to 30max I believe. Never would get them above 25. Now that I have installed it in my new truck, I have blown the drivers side tweeter twice (I think??). The first one looked like someone pushed in the dome with a pencil eraser or something. Didn't look blown, but the creases were effecting the sound, making it sound blown. Figured maybe somehow I might have hit it with something, but I can't figure out how the hell I would have done it??
Last week I ordered replacements. Pheonix Gold Ryval Tweets. I replaced both driver and passenger for looks. I replaced them 2 days ago and am starting to hear distortion and crackling and ocassionally the tweet will completely stop playing whenever the volume gets around 18. At 22, it is unbearable to listen to. The passenger side I can play as loud as I want and it sounds fine.
Things that I did different on this install are:
1. New truck was already professionally wired for an amp. Looks to be about 10 awg wire for + and -. I was using 8 awg before.
2. Ran different speaker wire. I used 14 awg wire. I was using 12 awg in my old truck.
I was pretty tired when I was installing it in the new truck. Took me about 12 hrs to do it properly. I'm afraid that I might have gotten some wires mixed up or something. Would this cause the driver's side tweet to keep messing up? The woofer works fine. I'm about 99% sure I didn't mix them up because I labled all the wires, but there's that 1% chance that I may have mixed up + and - on one end from being tired and not fully aware. BTW, passenger side woofer/tweet and sub are all working properly. I plan on double checking all the wiring and connections tomorrow, but I wanted to see what you guys think incase it's not a wiring issue. I'm hoping that's all it is.
What do you guys think???
Thanks in advance,
Ben
